Snow Attachments Snow Blade Gouging

Ortis · Feb 12, 2006

I am another novice with a 21hp Kubota B2100 and a snow blade on the rear. I have a part gravel, part tar and chip driveway, and have not figured out how to plow snow without either gouging or not clearing deep enough. If I have the blade set at a good height, then the grade changes and I get the gouging, or leave too much snow. I would think that wheels added to the blade coud fix it. I saw the thread on adding gauge wheels for grading. Would it work for snow?

It seems that I cant be the only person with the problem. Isn't there some bolt-on kit to solve it>

ronjhall · Feb 13, 2006

Here is a thread on Gage Wheels on a Rear Blade. Click Here
I have a rubber edge on my blade. Others have put a piece of wood on for a edge.
Here is a recent thread where a pipe was put over cutting edge. Click Here
TSC sells a Rubber Horse Mat that some have cut strips off to use as a cutting edge.

mrutkaus · Feb 13, 2006

you could try turning the blade around and plow that way, it catches less of everything that way...

mike

jdgreg · Feb 13, 2006

Get skid shoes, or the guage wheels. You can find the skid shoes at TSC, or like shops, or your local tractor shop. Use the skids to keep from gouging the gravel driveway, and clear it first. Raise the skids the do the chip/tar part. The more of the gravel and chip/tar you expose to the sun, the more it will absorb the heat energy and will melt the remaining snow/ice. Hope this helps.

Ortis · Feb 13, 2006

Thanks to all of you. I'll check into the shoes, but I had little luck the last time I tried. Failing that, I'll try the wood. Why don't blades come with stuff like that? Lots of us don't have blacktop.

Boondox · Feb 13, 2006

Save your money. Just turn the blade around and plow with the convex edge until the ground freezes.

Pete

JDGREEN4ME · Feb 13, 2006

( Save your money. Just turn the blade around and plow with the convex edge... )
I agree with Boondox, turning the blade around worked out fine for me. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

JerryG · Feb 13, 2006

If you make your third arm longer, it will help some.

Henro · Feb 13, 2006

In addition to what the others have said...

If you ever get to having a top and tilt set up. and if you decide you might like having float on the tilt side, you can even improve things more, by putting the tilt cylinder in float. This allows the rear blade to angle itself up and down according to the the way the ground runs.

In my case I have gage wheels on my rear blade and float on one of the tilt cylinders. Works real well on my driveway that has a lot of compound curves to it.

Without float it seems to me that even with gage wheels the blade would not follow the angles that well. I mean the high side would be the master, and blade would lift and not scrape close on the low side, due to the geometry of the 3PH which lifts both sides at the same time.

My experience anyway...I do like float on my tilt cylinder...I guess it shows... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

PS...actually I have four remotes, one of which I can use for the float on the tilt cylinder, or for float on the top link, if desired when brush hogging... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

djradz · Feb 14, 2006

( If you make your third arm longer, it will help some. )

Yes, I've found this to work also. It doesn't seem very intuitive however, as you would think tilting the blade back would cause it to dig more, but what happens is you sort of set the blade on it's heals, so the front "cutting" edge is off the ground and the blade then tends to float more.