Comparison Smallest compact/biggest subcompact??

[Dirk Digger]

Hi, newb here looking for some advice. I'm in the market for a subcompact or compact tractor. With that said, I think the bigger subcompacts are a bit small for my tastes. Yet many of the compacts are too big for my needs as well. I guess I'm kind of looking for my "goldilocks" tractor :thumbsup:. By that I'd like to have closer to 30-35hp instead of 20-25hp. And maybe a little more weight than 1400lbs for the bare tractor; 1700 lbs or so would be good, but can't go much above that (trailer/towing limitations). I consider the added power more important than adding a few hundred pounds. I also like the bigger wheels on the compacts vs the subcompacts.

I identified the Kubota B3200 and B7800 as fitting these criteria. But I'm wondering if there are any others from Kubota or other good quality makes that fit this bill? Thanks....

 

[Diggin It]

LS XG Series: XG Series | LS Tractor

And their XR series: XR Series | LS Tractor

 

[ericm979]

If you're lifting with the loader or pulling ground engaging implements, weight is more useful than HP. By going light you'll be limited there. Power is useful for some power hungry PTO implements like running larger material through a PTO chipper.

 

[jeff9366]

Because of the way in which expensive tractor emission controls phase into new tractors over 19 kW (25.479 horsepower) there is a gap between 27-horsepower and about 32-horsepower where few, if any, tractor manufacturers offer product today.



In used tractors consider the Kubota B3300SU/HST tractor-loader package. 1,900 pounds/33-horsepower/15" ground clearance.
LINK: TractorData.com Kubota B33SU tractor information



The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to define potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight needed to safely accomplish your tasks.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor operations than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.

(Usually, but sometimes not.)


Your LOCATION should be part of your T-B-N PROFILE. Your location informs us of your climate, especially snow; growing season, soil and altitude. Tractor and implement pricing and implement availability is decidedly regional.

Observe your responders.

 

[Dirk Digger]

Thanks for the responses so far. I should have mentioned this earlier, but I am probably looking into buying a lightly used tractor with a lot of life left instead of buying brand new (unless I find some kind of killer deal from a dealer or something like that). Also, I plan to stick with mainstream brands like Kubota (my first choice), Deere, MF, Yanmar and maybe some other pretty common brand (NH?). But prefer to stick around the Kubota, Deere, MF zone if possible, as those have dealers in my area.

Oh, also I'm well aware of the weight factor in getting hps to the ground. I want the power for attachments mostly. I have to bush hog a 2 acre field once or twice a year and typically the weeds and saplings get to 3+ feet tall, which choked out my 20hp Gravely.

 

[Motorboatin]

The JD 3 series might be the right fit for you

 

[mguitas]

Might want to look at the yanmar 424.

 

[Jchonline]

A B2601 with no FEL or fluids is 1600 lbs, and this is about as small of a CUT you can get. Add the LA434 FEL and bucket (combine 650lbs and you are already at 2250 with no fluids). You get much better ground clearance with this machine over a BX...and if you are traveling through 3ft plus fields a BX just isn’t going to cut it well. To me your current obstacle is towing capacity. You aren’t going to be able to tow the machine and equipment you need to do the job well. As Jeff mentioned, your weight limitations are keeping you in the 26hp and under category. Any chance you can improve the towing capabilities?

 

[Dirk Digger]

Thanks everyone, great suggestions all. And JC I have thought about upgrading my towing capabilities. I was hoping to avoid "mission creep" and avoid forcing an upsizing in either my shed, trailer or tow vehicle (a lowly aerostar van). But of all three, the trailer actually wouldn't be that hard to upgrade. I could buy another axle and wheels (and fenders) for it fairly inexpensively. And I have the know how and tools to weld the mounts on for it. And it already has electric brakes, so stopping power shouldn't be a problem. With the added axle my tow capacity should go up to about 4800 lbs which would be enough to accommodate a 3300 lb tractor or so. And I would usually only need to tow the tractor a pretty short distance to my property. Plus, usually all I would need to haul is the bare tractor and bush hog. On the other hand, the tractor still needs to fit in my shed.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Thanks everyone, great suggestions all. And JC I have thought about upgrading my towing capabilities. I was hoping to avoid "mission creep" and avoid forcing an upsizing in either my shed, trailer or tow vehicle (a lowly aerostar van). But of all three, the trailer actually wouldn't be that hard to upgrade. I could buy another axle and wheels (and fenders) for it fairly inexpensively. And I have the know how and tools to weld the mounts on for it. And it already has electric brakes, so stopping power shouldn't be a problem. With the added axle my tow capacity should go up to about 4800 lbs which would be enough to accommodate a 3300 lb tractor or so. And I would usually only need to tow the tractor a pretty short distance to my property. Plus, usually all I would need to haul is the bare tractor and bush hog. On the other hand, the tractor still needs to fit in my shed.

I think you would be pushing your Aerostar. They are really not engineered as a tow vehicle. What is the rated tow capacity? I had a Colorado before I bought a BX tractor and 16' trailer. Rapidly found the trailer was pushing me instead of the truck pulling the trailer. Usually towed it with the BX W/BH, FEL, couple other implements, and 50 GL fuel. Got deal on a 1 ton Dodge, Didn't even know it was back there. Found a BX needs at least a 12' trailer, w/dual axles and 4 wheel brakes. Do not recommend that combo w/the Aerostar on other than side roads and low speed. Lesson learned is: the tow vehicle is more important than the trailer size. Get a pickup first.

As Jeff said, where do you live, also what are you doing with the tractor? We are stabbing in the dark here.

Ron