Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough?

   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #1  

IHDiesel73L

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I need a shed for my yard equipment as well as a new woodshed. The old pallet shed is probably about to see it's last winter. I looked at the DIY kit sheds at Lowes and they want $2000 for a 10 x 12 shed with 7' high walls and a gambrel roof:

Estate_00058.jpg

I stepped inside one at the local store and they're well built-2x4 construction throughout, nice high ceiling with plenty of loft space, etc...but I thought I might be able to do better. I kept the 10 x 12 footprint and I came up with a pole barn type design using 4 x 4 x 10 treated posts (2' in the ground, 8' above ground), 2 x 6s as the purlins, and 2x4 trusses with OSB scab plates copied directly from the Lowes shed down to the angles. In addition to the shed of course, I also need wood storage, which I plan to put on either side via simple lean-tos. Here's my design:

Poleshed_zps49e60c0c.jpg

As you can see the design is very spare using as little lumber as possible while (hopefully) maintaining a strong structure. The posts will be set about 2'-6" deep. At the bottom of each hole will be a concrete paver to form a footing, and about 4" of gravel for drainage. After the post is set and leveled, two 80 lb bags of dry concrete will be poured in around the hole and tamped, and dirt will be shoveled in and tamped to grade level on top of that. I didn't draw all of the trusses or rafters because it would have taken too long, but they will both be spaced 16" OC since this is the Northeast and they will most certainly see snow loads. The 2x6 girt board at grade will serve as a "form" of sorts as I will be filling in the floor area with what is locally referred to as "crusher run" (basically small stone chips mixed with stone dust) which will be wetted and tamped-a poor man's concrete slab. The whole thing will be sheathed in 7/16" OSB except for the front and back walls which will be sheathed in "Smart Side" which an OSB product with a finished face that looks like T-111:

SmartSide 96 in. Composite Panel-27874 at The Home Depot

The side walls will just be covered in tar paper since they won't be seen unless the woodsheds are empty. The roof will get tar paper and whatever shingles I can get a good deal on the week that the roof goes on. The door will come from here and will be the single most expensive part of the shed, but worth it IMHO:

Roll Up Door Depot | High Quality, Durable, Worry-Free Steel Roll-Up Doors | Security Door, Storage Door, Metal Roll Up Door for Garage, Shed, Commercial, Industrial & Agriculture, 866-727-1184

No worrying about sagging hinged doors, etc... I figure I can put it all together for about $1500, so I'm coming in at $500 less than what Lowes is charging, plus with 8' walls I should have about 1' of additional loft headroom, which will come in handy because part of the purpose of the shed will be to clear the seasonal decorations out of the garage. I just want to be sure that 4 x 4 x 10 posts spaced 6' OC and 5' OC will be adequately strong. 6 x 6 x 10 posts would add about $175 to the total cost-is it worth it/necessary?
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #3  
The 500 savings will be the lack of a floor system, I really don't know why one would build a barn this size as a "Pole Barn" when a floor system could be easily installed and have the capability of moving the building if even need be, Perhaps you'll be going back later and pouring a cement floor,
But I guess you have your reasons, By you installing the post 2'6" in the ground and filling with 80 lbs of cement you should have no problems with stability, It will also gain more stability once you've squared & sheath the walls, of course If this were a traditional built structure with a floor system you would install diagonal corner bracing, in fact you might go ahead and square it up by installing temporary bracing from the inside until you get the roof & sheathing installed,
It sounds like you have a good game plan approach:thumbsup:
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #4  
Might I add a suggestion? You say you are using 4 X 4 X 10 and putting them 2ft in the ground. Having just built a lean-to I would suggest extending those to 12ft. It is much easier to find a reference point at 8ft above ground and cut everything level than it is to dig a perfect 2ft hole. You might also find bracing uses for the approximately 2ft you would cut off.
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
The 500 savings will be the lack of a floor system, I really don't know why one would build a barn this size as a "Pole Barn" when a floor system could be easily installed and have the capability of moving the building if even need be, Perhaps you'll be going back later and pouring a cement floor.

On a 1/4 acre lot there aren't a lot of places to move it to :laughing: I might do a concrete floor later too. Also, the $1500 includes the 12' x 6' lean-tos on either side of the barn (I only drew one because I didn't feel replicating it on the other side) so what I'm really getting is a similar barn (with 12" more loft space up top due to the 8' walls) to the $2000 kit, plus 6 and 1/2 cords of covered firewood storage. Thanks for the feedback!

Might I add a suggestion? You say you are using 4 X 4 X 10 and putting them 2ft in the ground. Having just built a lean-to I would suggest extending those to 12ft. It is much easier to find a reference point at 8ft above ground and cut everything level than it is to dig a perfect 2ft hole. You might also find bracing uses for the approximately 2ft you would cut off.

Good point-hadn't considered that.
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #6  
My suggestion is that if you think a 10x12 is big enough, you should add at least 2 foot on each side as a minimum. They fill up faster than you think. I built a 30x30 with 12 foot wings on each side and 2 years later added a 14x30 enclosed wing to the back for additional storage and it is crammed full now and all my tractor equipment and trailer is still outside. Amazing how fast "stuff" accumulates and you need a place to put the seldom used but vital accessories.
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #7  
Looks like a nice design

My suggestion is that if you think a 10x12 is big enough, you should add at least 2 foot on each side as a minimum. They fill up faster than you think. I built a 30x30 with 12 foot wings on each side and 2 years later added a 14x30 enclosed wing to the back for additional storage and it is crammed full now and all my tractor equipment and trailer is still outside. Amazing how fast "stuff" accumulates and you need a place to put the seldom used but vital accessories.

Yes its funny no matter how big you go the $h!t expands to fill the space
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #8  
4x4 is more than adequate. Any particular reason for the gambrel roof? It would be a lot quicker to use a straight rafter roof and seems to me would look better with the lean tos. The last shed I built was on a floating slab with stick built walls and not much different from pole construction costs.
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
4x4 is more than adequate. Any particular reason for the gambrel roof? It would be a lot quicker to use a straight rafter roof and seems to me would look better with the lean tos. The last shed I built was on a floating slab with stick built walls and not much different from pole construction costs.

I intend to build a loft eventually and will use every inch of that space to store the wife's holiday decorations. Right now they're clogging up the loft in the garage which I need for more important things like hunting and camping gear :D
 
   / Small (10' x 12') pole barn-does this look sturdy enough? #10  
At our old house I had a gambrel roof storage building. I had three levels of shelves across the back and sides. I had a shelf above the door as you walked in. You can get a lot of storage space in that design.
 

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