Sleeve Installation in Yanmar Engine

gbirky · May 1, 2003

I am in the process of rebuilding a Yanmar 2T72 engine (in a YM1110D), and need to replace a sleeve. I have removed the original sleeve and am waiting for a replacement.

My rebuild book for the engine says to "apply sealing paint or grease" to the outside lower part of the sleeve where the packing (o-rings) seal the sleeve against the block. What the heck is "sealing paint"? Has anyone resleeved a wet-sleeve yanmar engine and can tell me what sealing paint is and where to get it? Is regular grease good enough?

When I pulled the sleeve and removed the packing, there was definately some sort of rubbery like substance sticking to the packing. I assume this was the "sealing paint".

LLove · May 2, 2003

Does the book also mention anything regarding the temperture of the sleeve / block assembly?
I've always used white grease on the sleeve and have not had any problems yet on the engines where the sleeve would press in under "ambeint" room temps.
However... Detroit 2 strokes like to have the sleeve chilled- shrinking the OD, the sleeve almost falls in with a light push. and it has to be done qiuckly. Just holding them in your hands warms them up too much.
I have not had the pleasure of a Yanmar re-sleeve yet. But I'll bet it will go easier than you think. Are you planning to push or pull the sleeves into place? Either way works as long as it goes in straight.
If the kit comes with the pistons loaded and ready to go,beware that the rings are not always installed correctly. Got bit on that once, now I check the rings installation everytime.
Hope this helps... Lloyd

gbirky · May 2, 2003

I don't have the book with me, but I'll take a look over the weekend. I was planning to chill the sleeve just to make it easier to put in. I don't remember anything specific for installation other than the "sealing paint". Removal instructions used a tool to pull the sleeve out the top, but I think the installation instructions just say to push it in. It would be very difficult to not get it straight. I was planning to just try to push it, with a little help from a rubber or plastic mallet and block of wood if necessary.

LLove · May 3, 2003

A rubber mallet may work well enough, with a piece of hardwood. Fewer blows if you where to use a "shot- filled" no bounce type of hammer around 2lbs in weight.
Before getting an assortment of the Compothane/ weighted hammers, a 2lb ball pein hammer did do the job.
On smaller blocks,that will fit, the hydralic press with a lot of slow, carefull small pushes works.
On others, with the crank removed of course, a flat/ round 1" plate with a 11/16" hole in the center placed on the top of the sleeve, allows the use of a slidehammer
to draw in the sleeve from the bottom. They usually will slide in with minimal effort however. About the same as a really tight fitting Piston w/new rings.
A "Flap type" of Sander, Looks like a oversized drill rod with strips of sand paper at the working end, will clean out the block hole of rust. Get all of the dust and
debris out. A sharp wood chisel, or a flat file sharpened works good as a heavy-duty scraper. Get the area of the block where the sleeve gasket fits to the block extra
clean.
Basically, If you could say that you could eat off of it, It's clean. But it also has to be flat..
Don't gouge, Running a flat file across the mating surfaces of the head and block will highlight the high / low spots, if you don't have a " Trued " machinist type of
Straightedge and feeler gauges. The amout of prep work,and attention to detail makes the difference down the line.
Some people will paint the outside of the new sleeves with Rustoleum to minimize-reduce the pitting caused by some water.
Others don't do anything special,not even close to what I described above, and have Great success. Your Call,plan accordingly.
Again..hope this is of some help. Lloyd

buppy69 · May 3, 2003

Place the sleeve in the freezer overnight. It will contract and be easier to drive in.

Eugene

kayssupply · May 4, 2003

Every repair I have seen on these engines and transmissions have been coated in high temp silicone. I use it as a lube and sealant on bearings and anything that needs to seal fluid tight.Just don't get carried away with it. If you use too much it will get into places you don't want it. Once it is set up it is tough to get out of passages and holes. It will also " hydraulic"
that is become compressed between two surfaces and keep things from going completely up into place , if it doesn't have a way of getting out.