Since I am winterizing my DK50C....

[KanakaRick]

I might as well ask other questions too:

New to me 2003 DK50C- just turning 1000hrs.


My manual tells me to check the "Oil Pressure Filter"..... pray tell, what is that and where do I find it and how do I check it?

"clean fuel tank" - is that a common thing to do if the tractor isn't having issues?

"apply grease to front wheel hubs"- I'm not sure I saw any zerk fittings- do I need to take the hubs apart?

"change water pipe" - I know what the fuel pipe is.... and the water pipe? Are they talking radiator hoses? I am replacing them because
i have the old ones that are wrapped with fabric and after 14 years, they are probably about due.

 

[MichiganIron]

I might as well ask other questions too:

New to me 2003 DK50C- just turning 1000hrs.


My manual tells me to check the "Oil Pressure Filter"..... pray tell, what is that and where do I find it and how do I check it?
This refers to the Hydraulic Filter. The Hydraulic Filter and Fluid should be replaced every 350 to 400hrs.
"clean fuel tank" - is that a common thing to do if the tractor isn't having issues?
If it ain't broke, dont fix it. Just make sure you have a clean fuel filter.
"apply grease to front wheel hubs"- I'm not sure I saw any zerk fittings- do I need to take the hubs apart?
There are grease zirks on the top of the bevel gear cases. Everything else in the front axle is oil bath.
"change water pipe" - I know what the fuel pipe is.... and the water pipe? Are they talking radiator hoses? I am replacing them because
i have the old ones that are wrapped with fabric and after 14 years, they are probably about due.

Yep, change the radiator hoses.

 

[cphilip]

What is this "winterizing" you people up that way talk about?

 

[marchanna]

Gotta make sure things still work in sub-zero.

When changing out your hydraulic filter, youæ±*e probably going to want to change your tractor fluid also. I put a multi-grade in mine so that I could ensure good flow at low temps - equivalent to a 0W30. I also put a block heater in.

 

[KanakaRick]

Gotta make sure things still work in sub-zero.

When changing out your hydraulic filter, you羆*e probably going to want to change your tractor fluid also. I put a multi-grade in mine so that I could ensure good flow at low temps - equivalent to a 0W30. I also put a block heater in.

Any brand recommendations on store bought tractor fluid?

 

[marchanna]

There are a lot of good ones out there. I am using Klondike full synthetic because my local NAPA had it for a good price. Royal Purple makes a good one and does Amsoil, but I found them a little too pricey in my area.

For colder climates full synthetics are the only ones that are going to give you those really good cold flow properties while retaining the high temp properties also. Unfortunately, the Universal Tractor and Transmission Fluids (UTTF or other names) don稚 usually display on the packaging the multigrade like motor oils, so you have to look at the specs. I can post some more info here as soon as I dig it up.

 

[marchanna]

Below are a few key specs that you want to look at when evaluating a UTTF for colder climates, ie, when winter temps can get down to -20C (-4F) or colder. The cST at 40C and the pour point are going to be the key indicators of flow at low temps. Amsoil is the only one that posted a multi grade value. Some may argue that these grades are a little unnecessary at -20C, the thing to remember is that viscosity is still significantly impacted at those temps, and you will find your hydraulics operating very slow at grades with high cST’s and pour points.

Royal Purple Syntractor III WG (winter grade)
CST @ 40C. 43.9
CST @ 100C 8.3
Pour Point -51F (-46C)
Klondike Arctic Tractor Fluid Synthetic Blend - KL-HF8180
CST @ 40C 34.2
CST @ 100C 7.4
Pour Point -54C
Klondike Universal Tractor Fluid Full Syn - KL-HF8280
CST @ 40C 41.4
CST @ 100C 7.8
Pour Point. -51C
Amsoil Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil (5W30) - ATH05
CST @ 40C 55.4
CST @ 100C 10.1
Pour point -50C