jimmysisson
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- W.Mass
- Tractor
- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
I'm in need of some advice.
35 years ago I got my first tractor, a Farmall A. No lift, no hydraulics. Found a horse-drawn iron-wheeled, ground-driven sickle mower, IH I think. Used it by myself, even though it had a seat, and ran back and lifted the lever when needed. Total PITA, decided I needed to upgrade.
Next found another IH mower (I think) that bolted to the back of the A. A big old lever lifted the thing (no wonder my back hurts still) and the pitman arm was never too rugged. But it was a big improvement. Had some trouble mowing over already-mown areas, to finish up at a triangle, for instance. The cut grass would block the guards and keep the uncut grass from reaching the sections. I figured it was me, or yet another PITA mower.
Today I rescued a practically new sickle mower (Kuhn 6') from a neighbor's barn, cleaned it up and greased it, etc. It is a pretty basic unit, not much adjustment, pitman drive, etc. Sharp sections, not loose anywhere.
Before I went over to mow the same neighbor's field (first time this year, she's a new widow and her son didn't get to it) I tried it out in my back field - flat, no rocks, etc.
Darn if I didn't have the same problems with cut grass blocking the cutter bar and leaving uncut strips of grass. Mine was mowed rotary in late July, grass and clover about 12" high. I imagine it will work better in 3-4' weeds, but is this just the way these danged things operate?
How do you mow a field so that you're never mowing over part of what you already cut? With a brush hog it makes no difference. I already cut around her 10 acre field with 3 passes of my brush hog so I'd have a place to drive to start with.
Maybe that's why people use haybines and disc and drum mowers - no tangles?
Thanks, Jim
35 years ago I got my first tractor, a Farmall A. No lift, no hydraulics. Found a horse-drawn iron-wheeled, ground-driven sickle mower, IH I think. Used it by myself, even though it had a seat, and ran back and lifted the lever when needed. Total PITA, decided I needed to upgrade.
Next found another IH mower (I think) that bolted to the back of the A. A big old lever lifted the thing (no wonder my back hurts still) and the pitman arm was never too rugged. But it was a big improvement. Had some trouble mowing over already-mown areas, to finish up at a triangle, for instance. The cut grass would block the guards and keep the uncut grass from reaching the sections. I figured it was me, or yet another PITA mower.
Today I rescued a practically new sickle mower (Kuhn 6') from a neighbor's barn, cleaned it up and greased it, etc. It is a pretty basic unit, not much adjustment, pitman drive, etc. Sharp sections, not loose anywhere.
Before I went over to mow the same neighbor's field (first time this year, she's a new widow and her son didn't get to it) I tried it out in my back field - flat, no rocks, etc.
Darn if I didn't have the same problems with cut grass blocking the cutter bar and leaving uncut strips of grass. Mine was mowed rotary in late July, grass and clover about 12" high. I imagine it will work better in 3-4' weeds, but is this just the way these danged things operate?
How do you mow a field so that you're never mowing over part of what you already cut? With a brush hog it makes no difference. I already cut around her 10 acre field with 3 passes of my brush hog so I'd have a place to drive to start with.
Maybe that's why people use haybines and disc and drum mowers - no tangles?
Thanks, Jim