JasonL
Silver Member
I'm thinking about purchasing an air compressor for my shop. Does anyone have suggestions about things to avoid or look out for? I'm just starting my research and thought the experts could help out. Thanks! Jason
Shop Air Compressor
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MadReferee
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
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- Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader
Do a search in "Other Forums" for "air compressor". You will find that your question was asked and answered several times in the past few years.
Here is a link to a rather detailed discussion that you will find helpful.
Shop Air Compressor discussion
Here is a link to a rather detailed discussion that you will find helpful.
Shop Air Compressor discussion
Av8r3400
Platinum Member
I have a direct drive 5hp, oil less, 30 gallon, 220 volt Craftsman. It is cheap and very, very noisy, but, it has functioned for most of what I needed. (Airing tires, air nozzle for blowing water off motorcycle, etc.)
If I were to buy a new compressor, I would look for a "two stage" iron compressor with a separate (Baldor /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) 220 volt motor on at least an 80 gallon vertical tank. Separate motor = not direct drive, repairable and upgradeable. Iron compressor = durability over aluminum, I'm more into quality as I grow older. Two stage = 175 psi with higher volume (running a sander or polisher or impact gun uses ALLOT of air). I would use more of my air tools if I had a better compressor.
A compressor with a spin on filter has pressure oiling in it, and will be the absolute best, but, it will also be the most expensive. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Just my opinion.
If I were to buy a new compressor, I would look for a "two stage" iron compressor with a separate (Baldor /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) 220 volt motor on at least an 80 gallon vertical tank. Separate motor = not direct drive, repairable and upgradeable. Iron compressor = durability over aluminum, I'm more into quality as I grow older. Two stage = 175 psi with higher volume (running a sander or polisher or impact gun uses ALLOT of air). I would use more of my air tools if I had a better compressor.
A compressor with a spin on filter has pressure oiling in it, and will be the absolute best, but, it will also be the most expensive. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Just my opinion.
BB_TX
Veteran Member
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Like Av8r2230 I have a direct drive Craftsman I have had over 15 yrs and never a problem. Although mine is only 25 gal, 120 VAC. But it does all I need. Air up tires, run my impact wrench, rotary tool with wire brush for cleaning metal, air blow gun, etc. If I used tools needing high volume of air I would get a better one, but don't have that need.
varmint
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As a guy who's had several air compressors, I have to say that my son was smarter than me: he bought about what Av8R2230 recommended, from Amazon... except he got one with a 60 gal. tank, upright, for about $400 delivered. It makes a useful amount of air, and is much quieter than my units. Almost quiet enough to use without ear muffs, depending on where it is! Unless you are going to use it 40 hours a week, I'd say get oil-free. Harbor Freight has a pretty nice HVLP spray gun for $50 when it's on sale, FWIW.
mbrule
Gold Member
Consider your usage and CFM ratings, most any compressor will deliver the PSI that you require for any job. CFM is the important rating! The only other advise I have, is buy the biggest and best compressor that your budget and space allow. Then you won't be sorry down the road.
Matt
Matt
Spiffy
Veteran Member
If you're just filling tires, get whatever you like cheap; maybe even one of those twin tank portable "contractor" compressors for around $100.
If you have any airtools, Av8R2230 gave very good advice. Spend the extra now, and you'll actually enjoy your airtools. If you're just using air-ratchets 10cfm will be more than plenty. If you have a sandblaster, or sander, polisher or other high CFM tool (don't be fooled on false advertising here either; it takes a lot of air for any material removing activity) get closer to 20cfm @ 100psi.
Whatever you choose, please don't be fooled by "Peak HP" marketing tricks. The 20cfm mentioned only takes 5HP [roughly 20Amp @ 220V or 40A @ 110V]; but most "8HP" compressors wont touch it. CFM free air (not displacement) at a given pressure is what to look for; if it correlates to the motors rated current draw [not peak] then you're pretty sure of what you're getting.
And, I'd opt for quality too [often you do get what you pay for], but several people have been very pleased with incredibly reasonably priced machines.
Have Fun! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
If you have any airtools, Av8R2230 gave very good advice. Spend the extra now, and you'll actually enjoy your airtools. If you're just using air-ratchets 10cfm will be more than plenty. If you have a sandblaster, or sander, polisher or other high CFM tool (don't be fooled on false advertising here either; it takes a lot of air for any material removing activity) get closer to 20cfm @ 100psi.
Whatever you choose, please don't be fooled by "Peak HP" marketing tricks. The 20cfm mentioned only takes 5HP [roughly 20Amp @ 220V or 40A @ 110V]; but most "8HP" compressors wont touch it. CFM free air (not displacement) at a given pressure is what to look for; if it correlates to the motors rated current draw [not peak] then you're pretty sure of what you're getting.
And, I'd opt for quality too [often you do get what you pay for], but several people have been very pleased with incredibly reasonably priced machines.
Have Fun! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
have_blue
Veteran Member
Jason,
You must match the compressor to your needs.
If you intend to use air tools a lot, you better get a good one. Something with ~15cfm @90psi and oil lubricated. Get one with a belt-driven compressor. That usually ends up being one of the largest 120v units available. Tank size is over rated. If you get a good HD compressor, it will run 100% duty cycle, not burn up, and supply enough air while running.
If you will not be using big air tools regularly, then a cheaper unit is fine. The integrated motor "oil less" designs are great for normal home owner duty. The air is cleaner and relitavely moisture free. They are also very inexpensive. The down side is they are noisier than oil lubricated compressors, and will not stand up to continuous use.
I have 4 air compressors. My favorite is a 2hp 8 gallon oil-lubed unit I bought from Harbor Freight for $99. It's not my best compressor, but for $99, I am delighted with it. Of course, all I use it for is to run a die grinder, inflating tires, and occasional air tool use.
You must match the compressor to your needs.
If you intend to use air tools a lot, you better get a good one. Something with ~15cfm @90psi and oil lubricated. Get one with a belt-driven compressor. That usually ends up being one of the largest 120v units available. Tank size is over rated. If you get a good HD compressor, it will run 100% duty cycle, not burn up, and supply enough air while running.
If you will not be using big air tools regularly, then a cheaper unit is fine. The integrated motor "oil less" designs are great for normal home owner duty. The air is cleaner and relitavely moisture free. They are also very inexpensive. The down side is they are noisier than oil lubricated compressors, and will not stand up to continuous use.
I have 4 air compressors. My favorite is a 2hp 8 gallon oil-lubed unit I bought from Harbor Freight for $99. It's not my best compressor, but for $99, I am delighted with it. Of course, all I use it for is to run a die grinder, inflating tires, and occasional air tool use.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
You really need to say what your price range is.
For a little over $100 you can get a decent portable unit that will handle most weekend projects. They won't take extended abuse or tools with high air demands, but they will run an impact wrench and fill your tires.
Be sure to get one with oil. The "oil less" ones are just a bit cheaper, but don't compare in the quality.
I have two compressors. A small portable cheapy that is great for small stuff and light jobs. It will run my nail gun, grease gun and fill flats. It's a no name brand that I paid around $120 for a few years ago.
My good compressor is an Imglo wheel barrow type. It's an $800 compressor that can handle multiple nailers, my 3/4 impact wrench and run all day without a problem.
It's not up to air sanders or constant supply. For that your looking at several grand.
It gets confusing compairing the ratings. For a first one, I'd say go with a brand your comfortable with.
Eddie
For a little over $100 you can get a decent portable unit that will handle most weekend projects. They won't take extended abuse or tools with high air demands, but they will run an impact wrench and fill your tires.
Be sure to get one with oil. The "oil less" ones are just a bit cheaper, but don't compare in the quality.
I have two compressors. A small portable cheapy that is great for small stuff and light jobs. It will run my nail gun, grease gun and fill flats. It's a no name brand that I paid around $120 for a few years ago.
My good compressor is an Imglo wheel barrow type. It's an $800 compressor that can handle multiple nailers, my 3/4 impact wrench and run all day without a problem.
It's not up to air sanders or constant supply. For that your looking at several grand.
It gets confusing compairing the ratings. For a first one, I'd say go with a brand your comfortable with.
Eddie
frederic
Member
You've received excellent advice thus far, regarding models, types, prices, and ratings.
Let me add two things...
First, if you want it to last under a fair amount of use, make sure the pump head is cast iron. A lot of the less costly units are aluminum which is lightweight, but aluminum doesn't stand up to dry scraping from the piston very long. Some of them have cast iron sleeves, which is better, but they can work loose and eventually leak, depending on the design.
A year ago I purchased a used "Quincy" made in the late 50's or early 60's. It's an enormous horizontal unit which fits under the enclosed stairwell in my garage - so it's out of sight. It's a 150 gallon tank if I remember correctly. I paid $350 for it with a bad 3-phase motor, which I replaced with a 3HP Baldor single phase, 220V motor, which I got on ebay for about $50 plus about that in shipping. I had to drill out the shaft hole on the pulley for the larger motor spindle, and then cross-drill through the pulley and the motor shaft to put a pin in, as the set screw on the pulley was stripped and I was too cheap to buy a new pulley. So they've been pinned with 4340N small round stock I had lying around. Well, its a 1/4" pin /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Second, one of the things I've always liked about Quincy compressors aside from their durability, is their low noise factor. Because they run at a much lower RPM than consumer grade compessors, when they kick in you hear "pfssssst" of the pressure switch chamber, then "putt putt putt putt putt". You can work standing next to one without getting a headache. Mine's in an under-stair closet as I said, so I can barely hear it. I plumbed "black pipe" down the center of the two garage bays with quick disconnects so I can tap in with short, very flexible coily air hoses for workbench use, and under my workbench I have a self-retracting 100' spool of stiffer air hose which I can yank and extend into the driveway for outside work.
I also bought a 5 gallon, dual tank chinese "workman" air compressor for $89 at an auto store, for air "to go" in case I'm helping a friend build something that's not in my driveway. While not a really good compressor and it often doesn't keep up, it is small and reasonably lightweight that I can take it with me.
Before you buy, at least see if you can find an old commercial compressor. Most of them can be rebuilt if they leak for not so much money. A little cylinder honing and a new ring is often all they need, if anything.
Let me add two things...
First, if you want it to last under a fair amount of use, make sure the pump head is cast iron. A lot of the less costly units are aluminum which is lightweight, but aluminum doesn't stand up to dry scraping from the piston very long. Some of them have cast iron sleeves, which is better, but they can work loose and eventually leak, depending on the design.
A year ago I purchased a used "Quincy" made in the late 50's or early 60's. It's an enormous horizontal unit which fits under the enclosed stairwell in my garage - so it's out of sight. It's a 150 gallon tank if I remember correctly. I paid $350 for it with a bad 3-phase motor, which I replaced with a 3HP Baldor single phase, 220V motor, which I got on ebay for about $50 plus about that in shipping. I had to drill out the shaft hole on the pulley for the larger motor spindle, and then cross-drill through the pulley and the motor shaft to put a pin in, as the set screw on the pulley was stripped and I was too cheap to buy a new pulley. So they've been pinned with 4340N small round stock I had lying around. Well, its a 1/4" pin /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Second, one of the things I've always liked about Quincy compressors aside from their durability, is their low noise factor. Because they run at a much lower RPM than consumer grade compessors, when they kick in you hear "pfssssst" of the pressure switch chamber, then "putt putt putt putt putt". You can work standing next to one without getting a headache. Mine's in an under-stair closet as I said, so I can barely hear it. I plumbed "black pipe" down the center of the two garage bays with quick disconnects so I can tap in with short, very flexible coily air hoses for workbench use, and under my workbench I have a self-retracting 100' spool of stiffer air hose which I can yank and extend into the driveway for outside work.
I also bought a 5 gallon, dual tank chinese "workman" air compressor for $89 at an auto store, for air "to go" in case I'm helping a friend build something that's not in my driveway. While not a really good compressor and it often doesn't keep up, it is small and reasonably lightweight that I can take it with me.
Before you buy, at least see if you can find an old commercial compressor. Most of them can be rebuilt if they leak for not so much money. A little cylinder honing and a new ring is often all they need, if anything.