Snowblower Shear pins made easy

   / Shear pins made easy #1  

crusaw

New member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
3
Tractor
Kubota B7800 HST
I have a Kubota B7800 with a snowthrower, and a 600' gravel driveway. So of course I go through some shear pins. There is always great info here, so I thought that I'd share some things that I've learned, that work very well.

1. I make my own shear pins. I use exactly the same bolt as I can get from Kubota. 5/16 x 2-1/2" course thread. I chuck up the bolt in my drill press and use my right angle grinder in my sliding drill press vice to cut a 1/16th grove starting at 3/8" from the head, about 3/64ths deep. Nothing too special there.

2. The trick to changing shear pins, always seems to be getting the old one out. I keep the shaft well greased, as it should be, but that makes finding the hole for the broken shear pin, to drive it out, difficult. I can now change a shear pin in about 3-4 minutes, in the snow with my gloves on. Here is what I did:

A) With new shear pins installed, drill a 1/4' hole through the auger tube and shaft. Anywhere that is easy to access works. Kind of like a shear pin hole. Cut the threads off of a 4" or so, 1/4 bolt, then taper the end with a grinder. This will be an alignment pin.

B) When you break a shear pin, line up the auger pretty close to where it should be, using the other auger as a reference.** Push the 1/4" bolt into the hole that you drilled. Now you are lined up, and can just drive out the broken shear pin, and put in another.

DON'T FORGET TO TAKE OUT THE 1/4" ALIGNMENT BOLT after replacing the shear pin. I can always just push the 1/4" alignment bolt in, or pull it out by hand.

**if you break both shear pins at once, this isn't going to be quite as easy. Luckily, I haven't done this yet!

NOTE: you have to pay attention to how the auger is lined up to the other when putting the 1/4" bolt in. Because you aren't going to get a perfectly square hole if you drill it with a hand drill, if you are off by 180 degrees on the auger position, the 1/4" bolt probably won't go in. Don't force it!


TIPS:
- Peanut butter jars are great for holding shear pins, etc., and they fit under my seat perfectly.
- I also keep a flashlight and wrenches, including a 1/2" box-end gear wrench under the seat for changing shear pin.
- A broom clip works great for mounting a small flashlight on the cab. similar to: Lehigh 132 Grip Clip Organizer, Silver, Small 5-Pack - Spring Clip - Amazon.com


I hope this helps someone!
 
   / Shear pins made easy #2  
Are you using hardened bolts? Seems you are shearing an awful lot of them.

JD dealer told me they use very hard bolts as shear pins. I always assumed soft bolts were preferred, but the dealer and JD suggest hardened bolts. Once I put the hardened bolts in, they lasted 10x as long as common bolts. This was in my rotary broom.
 
   / Shear pins made easy #3  
I have a Kubota B7800 with a snowthrower, and a 600' gravel driveway. So of course I go through some shear pins. There is always great info here, so I thought that I'd share some things that I've learned, that work very well.

1. I make my own shear pins. I use exactly the same bolt as I can get from Kubota. 5/16 x 2-1/2" course thread. I chuck up the bolt in my drill press and use my right angle grinder in my sliding drill press vice to cut a 1/16th grove starting at 3/8" from the head, about 3/64ths deep. Nothing too special there.

2. The trick to changing shear pins, always seems to be getting the old one out. I keep the shaft well greased, as it should be, but that makes finding the hole for the broken shear pin, to drive it out, difficult. I can now change a shear pin in about 3-4 minutes, in the snow with my gloves on. Here is what I did:

A) With new shear pins installed, drill a 1/4' hole through the auger tube and shaft. Anywhere that is easy to access works. Kind of like a shear pin hole. Cut the threads off of a 4" or so, 1/4 bolt, then taper the end with a grinder. This will be an alignment pin.

B) When you break a shear pin, line up the auger pretty close to where it should be, using the other auger as a reference.** Push the 1/4" bolt into the hole that you drilled. Now you are lined up, and can just drive out the broken shear pin, and put in another.

DON'T FORGET TO TAKE OUT THE 1/4" ALIGNMENT BOLT after replacing the shear pin. I can always just push the 1/4" alignment bolt in, or pull it out by hand.

**if you break both shear pins at once, this isn't going to be quite as easy. Luckily, I haven't done this yet!

NOTE: you have to pay attention to how the auger is lined up to the other when putting the 1/4" bolt in. Because you aren't going to get a perfectly square hole if you drill it with a hand drill, if you are off by 180 degrees on the auger position, the 1/4" bolt probably won't go in. Don't force it!


TIPS:
- Peanut butter jars are great for holding shear pins, etc., and they fit under my seat perfectly.
- I also keep a flashlight and wrenches, including a 1/2" box-end gear wrench under the seat for changing shear pin.
- A broom clip works great for mounting a small flashlight on the cab. similar to: Lehigh 132�� Grip Clip Organizer, Silver, Small 5-Pack - Spring Clip - Amazon.com


I hope this helps someone!

I get the alignment hole. That is a great idea. Very frustrating trying to get the old shear pin out while maintaining alignment. But what is the purpose of the groove in the new shear pins?
 
   / Shear pins made easy #4  
I get the alignment hole. That is a great idea. Very frustrating trying to get the old shear pin out while maintaining alignment. But what is the purpose of the groove in the new shear pins?
To make it shear a little easier.

Aaron Z
 
   / Shear pins made easy #5  
Are you using hardened bolts? Seems you are shearing an awful lot of them.

JD dealer told me they use very hard bolts as shear pins. I always assumed soft bolts were preferred, but the dealer and JD suggest hardened bolts. Once I put the hardened bolts in, they lasted 10x as long as common bolts. This was in my rotary broom.

Hardened bolts are brittle and break easier than softer bolts that bend rather than break.
 
   / Shear pins made easy #6  
Hardened bolts are brittle and break easier than softer bolts that bend rather than break.
Soft bolts are also prone to "smearing" when they shear which can make it hard to remove the old pin.

Aaron Z
 
   / Shear pins made easy #7  
The soft bolts sheared 10X as often as the hardened dealer bolts did. I threw all my standard grade bolt away, because I was tired of shearing the stupid things.
I shear a bolt every 50 hrs now, before it was every 5-10 hrs.

I don't mind fighting a bolt in when it lasts longer.
 
   / Shear pins made easy #8  
Sheared Hardened bolts with the groove probably fall out once the holes are aligned😃 But I once had a bolt that sheared off at one end but the other end was just distorted such that I couldn't drive it out. I went into some really rough mowing trying to finish it off. It just held on for the longest time. Days later it finally gave up.
 
   / Shear pins made easy #9  
Sheared Hardened bolts with the groove probably fall out once the holes are aligned😃 But I once had a bolt that sheared off at one end but the other end was just distorted such that I couldn't drive it out. I went into some really rough mowing trying to finish it off. It just held on for the longest time. Days later it finally gave up.
 
 

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