Setting up the King Kutter II Tiller

[kvmapr]

I took the plunge this Spring and bought a 5 foot King Kutter II Tiller to pull behind my Jinma 254. I managed to get it mounted and put a nice finish on the garden plot, but in doing so I came across a couple of set up issues that I wanted to seek your collective advice on...

The first has to do with the adjustments for the skids on either side of the tiller. I noticed the right side skid could be raised one more position (bolt hole) to get the tines deeper into the ground (so I did, see photo 1 below). But on the left hand side of the tiller I can't set the skid to that deepest position because the oil bath housing is in the way. There's simply not enough clearance (see photo 2 below). Anyone else have this problem with their KK II tiller?

Photo 1 - Right side skid has been set into the deepest position (the lowest bolt hole).

Photo 2 - left side skid can't be set to deepest position because clearance between skid and bottom of oil bath housing is too narrow (probably just 1/2 inch, when 1 inch of clearance is needed).

I'll start a second thread for the other set up question I have. This is enough for one post.

Thanks,
KVMAPR

 

[jinman]

The adjuster is just a piece of plate steel with four adjustment holes in it. I suspect that's the way the engineering drawing is done and that's the way they make the part. It's the same part on both sides of the tiller.

 

[kvmapr]

Well that's disappointing. In all other respects I've found this tiller to be well built and quote solid. Seems a shame that they would fall down on something as important as the depth adjustment plate.

 

[xlr82v2]

I haven't really found it to be a problem on mine... it will still till as deep as you want to go... especially on the 2nd pass.

Go out and get yours dirty... you'll see

 

[Baby Grand]

KVMAPR-

My first impression when I set mine up was similar to yours - poor design to have an adjustment position that you can't really use. But Jinman correctly points out why the design is actually a good one: by using the same part in more places they:

1) eliminated the possibility of putting the right side part on the left side
2) reduced the number of different part designs in the assembly
3) doubled the quantity of one part number per assembly

These three factors reduce the overall cost of the tiller to KK and to you. Good engineering choices lead to better products.
Be happy in your work!

-Jim

 

[bjr]

I'm envious of your tiller, wish I could get one. The old generic rice tiller that I converted doen't have any depth ajustment skids. It kind of drags a chain case guard in the dirt (I have build it up occasionly with the welder) but goes plenty deep enough and yours will too. bjr

 

[greenmule]

Yeah,don't let them skids worry you none,set them about as high as they go,evenly. They just dig in after first pass,you have to make 2-3 passes,to get any depth,[I went through same thing as you,but thats what I have now learned.

Whats the second question,pto u joint in back makes clacking noise when you raise it with it running?

Or could it be slip clutch?

 

[kvmapr]

Thanks for all the great feedback. And I have to admit, that after a couple passes through sod, it did till pretty deep. And after just one pass through a garden that was tilled last year, it went deep the very first time. So while my results were good, I just had to ask the question cause that setup just didn't seem right, at the time.

And since you asked, the second question was about how to set the "tilt" (for lack of a better word) to get the best penetration into the ground. Here's what I'm talking about...

When I first hooked up the tiller I had the top link extended pretty far out to keep the tiller in a basically vertical position (when seen from the side) as in Photo 3 below. But this didn't seem to get the tines as deep into the ground as they could potentially go. At least the couple of runs I made in that setting produced some less than satisfying results.

Photo 3 - top link extended and tiller standing up vertical

So I tightened up the top link which caused the tiller to pitch forward, as in Photo 4 below. This seemed to give the tines more bite (but that's just eyeballing it, I didn't really bother examining it closely). And after a couple more runs, it looked like it was doing a better job. But I can't really tell one way or the other.

Photo 4 - top link is shortened and tiller leans farther forward than in photo 3

So I thought it would be a good idea to raise the question here. Should I have the tiller leaned forward the way it is in photo 4? Or should it be stood up vertically as in photo 3?

Thanks for the feedback.
KVMAPR

 

[greenmule]

I don't think it matters that much as far as how deep it tills,but think it matters as to the u joint at slip clutch binding when you pick it up with it running.

I have mine about same tilt as second picture,cause it seems that angle makes less of an angle on drive line when raised and running.[if you know what I mean]

you oughta check the bolts on it after you have used it,and that slip clutch,did you make sure it wasn't froze shut? Its a fine line between sliping and not,after you back off the nuts,till you can slip it with your hand it is a matter of trial as to how tight,you want it loose enough to where it will slip if needed but tight enough you can till without slipping. You can break your pto drive in your tractor if it don't slip when it needs to.

 

[hr3]

Good point Greenmule,, I just bought a new woods tiller and the dealer set it up..he told me about the clutch settings and said that next spring I would have to check it,,, I should have checked it as soon as I got it home,,The first big rock I hit,, "Clunk".. the tractor died..Luckly it didn't hurt anything..