setting up a disc

   / setting up a disc #1  

RobertN

Super Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
8,479
Location
Shingle Springs California
Tractor
New Holland TC40D
How do you set up a disc?

My Dad got a 5' disc with an old 9N Ford he got. The disk looks newer, but I have not found a brand or model number. We tried pulling it behind the 9N; it didn't "disc"; it just ran on top of the ground(even loose dirt).

The front set of discs were set straight across, and are the scallopped type. The back set are plain, and are set so the outside ends are forward of the inner ends.

We tried putting 150lbs or so of concrete on it; it still just ran on top of the ground.

I put it behind my Kubota. The same thing... I tried shortening and lengthening my toplink(TnT) with no real affect. I just tried setting the front discs so the ends are forward; that had a little affect, but not a lot. I also added three 55lb suitcase weights.

There are 12 holes on the inner and out mounts, on both the front and rear disc sets.

I do not know if I need to change the angle, add a weight box, both, or?

Suggestions?

The Disc if a Ford brand, model-205. Two pictures show the current setup
 

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   / setting up a disc #2  
Basically, for the most aggressive penetration, you want the front gangs to be Vee'd towards the center. Looking down vertically, imagine the hands of a clock; the front, left gang/wing would point to 10:00, the front right gang/wing points to 2:00. At the rear, it is also vee'd towards the center. This would make the left, rear gang/wing at 8:00 and the right,rear gang/wing at 4:00. Standing at the rear of the disc.(like the wings of a butterfly) This is assuming the disc blades themselves are mounted correctly on each gang.The front blades should throw dirt outward, and the rear blades should pull dirt back towards the center.
After you get the angles correct, than the level of the entire disc frame(front to back) can be adjusted by the top link of the three point hitch. In theory; if the disc blades sank into the soil 4" up front, then you want the rear disc blades to sink 4" also. Level actually means as the implement is operated in the soil. Now, lets says you have disc'd over the soil a few times and it has really loosened up, but you don't like the big ridges it leaves behind, this is when you move the front and rear gangs to a less aggressive angle(getting closer to a straight line from left to right, but never ever completely straight). Sometimes, one leaves the front gang at the most agressive angle(v-shaped) and leave the rear gang less aggressive.​
To imagine a picture in your head, think about how you spoon out ice cream from a container, The disc blade is like a rolling, rotating spoon cuts downward in the direction of travel, then flips the dirt as it rotates out of the ground because the concave design, just like a spoon in ice cream. Hope this helps. This info is from farming with my Dad years ago=bigger 18-22 foot pull-type disc. I believe it to be the same for smaller 3 point hitch-style disc.
 
   / setting up a disc #3  
I see you have photos now. I would start by making the front gangs/wings as aggressive as possible. This type of disc adjustment is more work than an actual farm disc (as far as angles go). My guess is to set the front very aggressive and try it, if acceptable, then leave the rear alone, but still level the frame while it is in the soil. If unacceptable, then put the rear gangs to the most agressive setting. One thing I didn't mention before, is that once the soil is loosen up, you can slight lift the entire disc(less over all penatration/depth) and this helps smooth out ridges, too. This would probably be the most desirable method with your style of disc.
 
   / setting up a disc #4  
Normally, the front gangs should be more aggressively angled than the rear. From the photo's it appears just the opposite. The front looks too "straight", with more angle needed. Rear looks OK, to SLIGHTLY more aggressive than you'd need if it were digging. (Too aggressive on rear gangs and you end up with a center "ridge" where too much dirt ends up in the middle.)

That is a lightweight disc. Even with the weight shown, you still might not have enough mass there to cut in to hard ground. In plowed ground, you SHOULD be discing to the hubs.

For a first pass try shortening the top link to ride more weight on the front gangs. You can level the disc on a later pass to give a flat seedbed.
 
   / setting up a disc #5  
As far as adjustment goes, it does not look like you have any angle change options given the way the disc is built. So given that, I would say add lots of wieght (maybe 400lbs) and see how that does. I have also read some other post where folks did say that their discs would take multiple passes before cutting through virgin ground. Try adding the extra wieght and running over the same spot for 5 or six passes.
 
   / setting up a disc #6  
I have a light weight disc also (see photo). Although I believe it's a little wider than yours. Even with additional weight (RR tie & a chunk of RR rail) it will only scratch sod. However, in plowed ground it'll cut to the hubs. I've listened to Farm w/junk when setting mine up & for what its worth can vouch for his recommendations above.

I found that a RR tie drug behind the disc works good for smoothing & leveling. I just chain it off to the front of the disc frame.
 

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   / setting up a disc #7  
Looking at your disc you are not far from having the max angle on the gangs and I'd say some one might have experimented with it before and found the setting to be the best all around.

The farm discs that we sell today are in the 300 to 400lbs per foot of cut for average work. By that I mean secondary tillage not primary as those discs are nearly double the weight per foot of cut. They don't normally run a disc of size off three point hitch do to the weight is a lot to hang off the three point hitch..

Your getting all that you can from your disc and to add weight will help bet be sure to add it so not warp your frame. To add the extra weight needed you should tie your frame together before you start adding so it remains level in all ways.
 
   / setting up a disc
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I would like to be able to run fence lines to keep the weeds down, make a fire break. Soil conditions seem nice now, and the weeds/grass are short, so the disc doesn't have to "cut" through them.

I'll try the recomendations from all this afternoon.

Farmwithjunk said:
That is a lightweight disc. Even with the weight shown, you still might not have enough mass there to cut in to hard ground. In plowed ground, you SHOULD be discing to the hubs.
 

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