Setting T posts with FEL

[drjay9051]

I am fencing in the perimeter of my 10 acres. Last year I placed some fence with wooden posts and one man gas auger, it was a brutal job.

Issue is that I sustained a bad shoulder injury and I am not able to use the auger all that much. i can certainly use it for the corner braces but as far as a hole every 10-12 feet it would be next to impossible for me with my injury.

I have decided to use metal T posts instead of wood. Now using the manual post driver would also be a near impossibility due to my shoulder.

I see many have driven (pressed) T posts with the bucket. i have sandy soil so not a problem.

My question is as follows:

With the wood posts I set them tensioned the fence and finally stapled fence to posts.

Anybody see a problem with me running the fence from corner to corner, stapling off at corner braces to assure a tight fence and then after lightly tapping all the T posts in line along the now erected and tight fence simply going from post to post and pushing in with the bucket?

The only possible issue I see is getting the fence caught up on the metal stubs to which you attach the wire clips. Solution is to face stubs away from fencing when installing.

My thought is if I tension fence first and then drive posts i can better gauge how far to drive using top of fence as a guide.

I have no help on this project so must find a simpler way due to my bad shoulder.

Appreciate any thoughts or ideas.

 

[TractorGuy]

Working around the fence would be a problem.

I think you should pull a string, set the posts, then stretch the fence.

I don't have any experience with installing posts with the loader.

 

[CobyRupert]

All the limited fence building I've done has always started with running a strand of fence or a string, etc.. first, from corner to corner, or end post to end post. This gives a straight line to locate the intermediate posts. I never tension it very tight. Keeping a sag in it would probably give slack if post stubs snag it. I tension it after intermediate posts are in, just before attaching it to posts.
If you need a guide for knowing correct post depth, you could always spray paint a mark on posts that represent ground level, or hang a string "plumb bob", or stick, etc...of correct length from bucket that hits ground at correct post height, etc...

 

[RUSTBUCKET BRONCO]

if you do it the way your describing you could always put a section of PVC over the T post so the fence doesn't get caught up on the nubs of the post. It could also work as a gauge to make all the T posts the same height.

Rust

 

[sd455dan]

like above

but, using a known distance (like 1 inch) space the string an inch away from the corner posts
then when setting the intermediate posts in place leave the inch -this way when done pull the string and then using a fence stretcher on the actual wire you will have a straight fence.
It is difficult to get a straight line otherwise because once an intermediate post touches the string line all other posts will be .out of a straight line. hope this makes sense

 

[Birdhunter1]

I've pushed in many t posts with a loader but never found a good way to do it as a one man job. Then again I've only ever attempted it a few times, normally my dad has been the operator and I was holding posts in place till he pushed them in.

 

[BukitCase]

My results doing T posts with the loader) are about as crappy as Birdhunter's - for one thing, the geometry of loaders makes it impossible to drive straight down. for another, the posts tend to slide around (or worse) unless you make some sort of "socket" to corral them (THAT makes the "geometry" arc even worse)

What I finally ended up doing was buying one of these

Rohrer Manufacturing Inc. :: Automatic T-Post Driver and Fence Supplies | Rohrer Manufacturing

I was younger then, and hadn't had shoulder surgery (yet) so I went with the larger/heavier 99E-M, came with a full diameter adapter and I added 2" square AND the T post adapter.

Downside, it weighs 38 lbs where the basic T post driver weighs 26 lbs, and it's more $$. Upside - I've used the 2" square adapter with a section of 2" square tube, capped with 1/4" flat, welded onto a similarly capped 4" square tube, to drive (pre-pointed and treated) 4x4 posts into my CLAY soil (early enough in summer to miss the "rock" stage of my soil

If you don't envision using the driver for anything but T posts, the basic one is quite a bit cheaper. Also, even the bigger one I have runs just fine on a 120 volt portable compressor, which will run on a 3kW genny, both of which would easily fit on a 3PH carryall.

In use, I've found that (especially as I get older) the heavier model is best used by FIRST inserting the T post in the driver, THEN placing the end of the post where I want it, THEN tipping post AND driver up vertical and driving it. Either way, an air swivel adapter at the driver is your friend.

Only caveat in my experience - when these drivers first start, they tend to jerk your post AWAY from the intended target - I found that this can be avoided by holding DOWN FIRMLY on the handle that's attached to the inner sleeve until the pounder gets a couple strokes; then it's fine.

The larger one I have (BEFORE the clay gets completely dried out) will (with the adapter I mentioned above) drive a POINTED 4x4 in anywhere from 20 seconds to a minute.

In short, if you're over 25 or so there is NO FUN WAY to do fencing, but those drivers make it a LOT less excruciating And no, I do NOT work for the company (or any OTHER company; I'm 74 and retired since 7 years ago) ... Steve

 

[Barnbuilder]

Just did some with the Bobcat. Worked fine as long as t post didn't hit a rock. I guess a few casualties can be expected.

 

[PILOON]

Tried my FEL but that was a failure.
I made a DIY 'post pounder' eg a 3-4" pipe with handles and a heavy slug of steel at the top end.
That works just fine 4 me.
One advantage is if the T bar goes in crooked you can persuade it back to vertical.
For handles I used Rbar for better grip.
PS, also available ready made in the less than $50.00 range.(LOL, but I like welding projects)

 

[TractorGuy]

Tried my FEL but that was a failure.
I made a DIY 'post pounder' eg a 3-4" pipe with handles and a heavy slug of steel at the top end.
That works just fine 4 me.
One advantage is if the T bar goes in crooked you can persuade it back to vertical.
For handles I used Rbar for better grip.
PS, also available ready made in the less than $50.00 range.(LOL, but I like welding projects)

I made my own driver also. I haven't weighed it but it's at least 10 lb heavier than any store bought model I've seen. Drives em in with a lot less effort. Especially when it has a son-in-law holding it.