Septic tank and leach field repair

[dlabrie]

The baffle (the wall that keeps the solids out of the leach field) in my septic tank is crumbling. And my 32 year old leach field is just about shot. I have 2 questions.

1. Can I take a piece of 4” drain pipe, say 18” long, Put a T in the middle, kind of like this… ╣ then insert a 6” piece into the T, then put it into the pipe going to the leach field to fix the problem with the baffle?

2. My leach field is 10’X20’. I have the plans. It gives the depth of sand, stone, etc. If I get a load of stone and sand and new perforated pipe, could I dig out the old system and repair it myself? I have a B2910 w/ FEL and tooth bar. I have a place to get rid of the old stone, etc. I guess I am curious if this is too big of a job for my B2910, or me, for that matter.

I may be naive, but, don’t I just have to remove the topsoil, dig out the stone and sand, replace the sand, some stone, make sure it is level, lay in the pipe, cover with more stone, landscape fabric and and loam? Am I missing something?
Thanks.

 

[BarryinMN]

You need a soil Perc test (from a licensed tester about $250 around here.) His report will give you your soil characteristics & will be the basis for a fix (if any.) The report also gets filed with the county who becomes interested with compliance & starts a 12 mo re-inspection cycle. They likely have rules for licensed contractors only, sized appropriately, drawings submitted etc.

The Feds in their zeal to clean up ground water have written rules that they are now forcing compliance at the local level. The stick is withholding federal road, school, etc funds. If your County does not force compliance now they will sometime in the future.

The main idea is evaporation out the top rather than drainage & filtering down below.

This s /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gify business is a lucrative growing market. Get several quotes. Be aware that mound systems are cheaper (less volume of perc friendly soil) but are susceptible to the frost line being driven down to the pipes & freezing! Some pile bales of hay over the mound for the winter, others run hot water thru it!

Kind of pick your poison: pay now or later. MN requires the seller to provide a compliant system. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[dlabrie]

From what I have heard, here in NH a homeowner can repair an existing septic system, without permits, etc. as long as the original design is not changed.

 

[avclay]

I plan on "updating" my septic system this year too. There's lots of good stuff on the net, including new products for your leach field that improve "leaching." I don't know anything about baffles - it looks like you tried attaching diagrams or pics that didn't come through.

Other than what you've mentioned I think you have to consider pitch. I think 10' x 20' (???) is small compared to the leach fields they are designing today. I've had to opportunity to look at professionally drawn plans for new construction. I think they had four legs of 70' of pipe with the chambers that compensate for 30' of pipe (I think) connected back to a distribution box which was connected to two 1000 gallon tanks. This was for a four bedroom residence. I think it was a little overboard, but the rule of thumb is 100' of pipe per bedroom. There was also a "reserve field" around the pipes.
Alot of the tank vendor sites have installation info right on them.

I think this is a very "doable" project once you find out your requirements. The biggest problem is going to be finding anyone to help!!!!

 

[LarryRB]

no need to go through all that, as they sell PVC ready made baffles now... Any good sized plumbing supply will have them.. As far as the leach field, if the pipes are full of water than the filed is saturated and probably not good anymore. I just did a system to sell our house in Mass.. Title V and not easy to pass it... Engineered plans, licensed installer the whole smaltz.

 

[JJT]

I doubt a 10x20 leach field is going to pass code today. I have 3X the required leach field and I have 18 50'laterals about 8-10 feet apart, (about a half an acre). 800 yards of sand, 300 tons of number 2 stone, 3 distribution boxes and 2 1000 gallon tanks. ~$10K and I did all the manual labor and finish grade work.

If this is just a vacation home you may want to consider a closed tank and getting it pumped when it's full.

 

[HuckBB62]

I don't know if these are to code where you are but I used them as did my buddy this year. They work GREAT and installation is amazingly simple. Infiltrators, the easy solution.

 

[dlabrie]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( no need to go through all that, as they sell PVC ready made baffles now)</font>
That's great, I will pick one up.


I was surprised too at the small size of the leach field when I saw the specs. It is 10X20 with only 60' of perforated pipe. However, it has lasted for over 32 years on a 3 BR house!

If I do the the work myself, I can't change the design. If there is a design change, a licensed contractor/engineer has to spec it out and do the work.

 

[dicker]

Good morning

My baffle also crumbled about 10 years. It was noticed by the man pumping out the tank.

He told me to get a 4" 90 degree elbow and put a one ft piece of pipe on either side of the joint. Then he shoved the pipe into the drain line going out to the leach field with the other side facing down into the tank. That is my new baffle.

Has worked great.

Good luck

Richard

 

[dummy]

I'll take a stab at it. Check and make sure about the homeowner clause for repair. Then, go for it. If it's already broken, what do you have to lose?

1) yes, temporarily( 1yr, 20 yrs, ?) that would work. You would be allowing mostly liquid waste beyond the tee because it should be below the scum level. The last time the tank was pumped, if ever, did they comment on the overall condition?

2) Are you thinking the leach field is saturated or just that the lines are plugged? Get a shovel and dig up the outfall side. Are the liquids leaving the tank? Any nearby tree roots plugging the lines? As long as the field isn't saturated, you should be able to tell pretty quick, keep looking for the offending problem. And, I would skip the landscape fabric too. Got a buddy with a backhoe (excavator) ?