Seeking Advice: DK45S Second Remote Install

ritcheyvs · Apr 1, 2015

I think I have this under control but thought I'd ask for advice before continuing, in case I'm missing something.

I found/bought a new/old-stock second remote kit on ebay. I think a dealer got stuck with it; my good luck!

I removed the tractor seat (and the plate under it) and that appears to provide all the access I need. The instructions say to remove the RR wheel, an access panel in the RR fender, the tool box, and the cover for the three-point control levers; all that seems unnecessary.

I easily loosened the nylock nuts that hold the valve cover end cap. The instructions say to completely remove the old existing valve but I don't think that is necessary. I plan to jam two nuts (still need to buy) on the exposed threads and unscrew the old stud with a wrench on the bottom nut. Is this likely to work or shouldl I need to completely remove the old valve to remove the old studs?

Finally, should I use sealant where the QD threads onto the bulkhead "connector filters". Is regular plumbers' pipe dope suitable for this?

Thanks for any advice.

ritcheyvs · Apr 4, 2015

Answering some of my own questions (for the benefit of anyone else doing this job):

1. It is not necessary to remove the RR wheel or fender access plate. That might have made the job a little easier but I was not about to move a loaded rear tire by myself. Access to the double-acting valves is adequate from above and also pretty good from below, which is especially handy for screwing in the new studs and torquing the nylock nuts.

2. I was able to remove the studs (and install the new ones) by jamming a couple nuts (10mm x 1.25mm) on the exposed threads and turning the lower nut with an open-end wrench. Those threads were tight all the way and I expect they were slightly oversize because they wouldn't pass through the hole in the end cap (the nut-end threads had no interference).

3. It is not necessary to remove the old double-acting valve but clean the area first so debris doesn't fall into the gap between the valve and transmission. This gap will open slightly and you will have to remove the valve to clean the area.

4. The o-rings are as likely to stick to the flat mating surface as stay in the recessed groves. Use care not to lose any (the kit has no spares).

Coyote machine · Apr 4, 2015

You should be OK with plumber's pipe dope, just keep it from getting into the fluid flow circuit by using it to cover the male threads just enough to prevent hydraulic fluid from escaping under pressure. Or you can use Teflon tape with the same precautions.

o2batsea · Apr 5, 2015

Thanks for this. I still have one of these kits in a box waiting for me to get motivated.

s219 · Apr 5, 2015

Late to reply, but the two-nut trick is a good one to get studs out, and also to turn new studs in all the way.

ritcheyvs · Apr 5, 2015

o2batsea said:
Thanks for this. I still have one of these kits in a box waiting for me to get motivated.

Before you start, be sure you have all the parts. I removed the actual seat and the mechanism that supports it separately to reduce the weight I had to lift out of the tractor. On my machine, everything fit perfectly except the longer hard line from the new valve (front port) to the QD nipple; it was about 1/8 inch too long, maybe because of the plate for the electrical connector which was welded to the backside of the bulkhead plate. While it was possible to do everything just by removing the seat it involved working in "stress positions" because there is no good way to sit and also see and reach your work area. I took a lot of breaks (to uncramp and restore circulation) and I also did the job over three days (a couple hours at a time). It probably took 5-6 hours, total, which included many walks back to my garage to get additional tools. I leak-checked everything by dead-heading each valve in both directions and working the 3-point. I was pleased (and surprised) when nothing leaked.