Sealed lights

[pat32rf]

Not for my tractor but rather my trailers....I'm gradually switching my trailers from the normal lights with bulbs to the round sealed units that mount in rubber gromets. I've found that they last a lot longer than bulbs and I don't have corrosion problems.
There is however a very fine line between cutting the hole too large (things fall out) and too small (things just won't fit without using a prybar).
Does anyone know what the diameter of the hole SHOULD be?
I have these lights on my ATV trailer and they have lasted for years now I want to change another two trailers to them....They are cheaper than buying a trailer lite kit at Camnadian tire as well.(as long as you don't pop for the LED version)

 

[ray66v]

If your buying local, their book should give hole sizes. They usually have an inexpensive steel mounting plate available, you can ask to see one, and take measurements off of it.

The last trailer I put sealed led's on, I used the oval shaped lights. To make life easy, I bought one basic steel mounting bracket for like $8, and used it for a template.

 

[Soundguy]

last set I bought at napa or the truck stop had a template on the lil folded directions..

i might start going led one day..

soundguy

 

[herringchoker]

Those sealed lights are definitely more robust. When I used to own heavy trucks, I converted all my tail lights to them and mounted them in the body of 5" rubber tractor utility lights. The sealed beam tail lights snap right into the rubber housings, they are enclosed and not exposed to road spray, and they are somewhat forgiving if accidentally bumped. Just an idea....worked well for me. :thumbsup:

 

[boggen]

i realize ya looking for manufactored stuff...

but if you have a dremal, you can normally pick them up with an assortment of little sanding drums, and small cut off wheels. there small enough to allow you to do small little detail work. for holes that are just not that big.

as far as DIY, you can pick up some small size rubber O-rings form most local hardware stores. that fit snugly over any bolts / screws. and then pick up a tube of silicon or polyurethane, that is listed as UV resistant. and put around the light cover. right before you screw / bolt the cover on. and dap some around the wires coming out of the light fixture. ((a note, double check the bolts/screws fit with O-ring on. before doing the silicon. some times the bolts/screws just do not have enough length to them)) ((note: make sure you allow the silicon / polyurethane fully cures **see directions on tube you get**, before taking things out on the road.

*tip* sometimes you can find, little kits for putting in new window screen, into sliding glass doors and windows, the little rubber piece might work on certain types of lights to help water proof them.

some lights, you can take completely apart, and run your trailer wiring inside of the light itself and put on new ends. and remove the little pig tail wiring that comes with lights. so all your connections would be inside the light fixture itself. vs having to deal with a couple spliced wires hanging just outside of the light fixture. it may not be the prettiest, but functional.

 

[pat32rf]

Most of my trailers get used 12 months of the year, rain, snow, salt. Even with using dielectric grease on the bulb bases sooner or later they break a ground wire, get rusted up or just plain burn out. The sealed truck units allow me to make a more lasting job. I even run a ground wire back to the plug....I'd just like to know what sized hole to cut in the fenders....

 

[herringchoker]

Pat...Grote catalog says 4-1/2" diameter hole in their bracket to fit standard U.S. 40 series lamps. (The 40 series lamps are 4-5/16" diameter.) Also checked Truck-Lite...same dimensions.