Scraper blade choice?

[Wanderer]

I am interested in buying a scraper blade for leveling dirt and snow removal for my driveway. The driveway is about 1/4 mile long. The tractor I have is a TC33DA. What do you think of this blade choice?

bison.com.mx

Thanks!

 

[Thomas]

"light-duty landscaping applications."

Would be my only concern.
If by chance corner of blade snags rock,root,ice will it bend etc.
Have you check Woods RB models?

 

[whodat526]

are a tuffline line brand blade they are the heaviest built i have seen

 

[grnspot110]

Watch CL for a used one & don't go with a "lightweight", you'll regret it!

I use old JD #80, 6', very well built, sometimes can be picked up for around $200! ~~ grnspot110

 

[Compact1]

Wanderer,

I also have a TC33DA and use a Landpride RB3572 rear blade which is a 6' model.

I'm not familiar with Bison so I compared blade weights. My blade weighs 484 lbs. and a 6' Bison LT weighs 372 lbs. If my math is correct the Landpride is 33% heavier than the Bison. I believe in buying the heaviest blade your tractor can accomodate since weight is crucial for certain tasks.

I personally would not buy a blade advertised as "light duty" for a TC33DA. Just my opinion.

 

[radman1]

For leveling gravel, maintaining dirt/gravel road or snow removal, I like the lighter weight blades that don't want to dig in. If planing on leveling or moving loose dirt or heavier rock, a heavier blade is better. A scraper blade regardless of weight does not do a good job of moving turf or packed dirt, it just glides over the surface. I have a light weight blade and still like it for some tasks over a heavy blade.

Most every company makes different weights of scraper blades. Depends on what you want to spend and its purpose. You can always use a heavy weight blade like a lighter duty by raising the 3 pt to lift some weight off the cutting edge or turn the blade around backwards and it won't dig in as well. I sometimes mount a few suitcase weights (100-200 lbs) on the light blade if I need it to dig in more.

Buying a used blade from CL, auction or an ad is a good way to save a lot of money on a rear blade. They are common and simple tools. Basic blade is the same for the past 50 years.

 

[Wanderer]

Thank you for the advice everyone. I am going to start looking now for one based off of everyone's comments. Need to get ready for all that snow ;-)

 

[svcguy]

When I purchased mine, I immediately welded a 1/2 inch by 2 inch piece of flat bar on edge for the entire length in the middle of the curve. It has really helped save that poor blade on many occasions. Although we all think we are going to be careful and ensure our equipment is not abused, the unforseen is called unforseen for a reason. I have hit survey irons, rebar, snagged pipelines and rock that looked like a stone and turned out to be a buried 600 pound boulder. I know it is hard to burn the paint off a brand new piece of equipment, but believe me, you will be glad you did. You may not have the hazards we have, but then you might.

 

[mojoinco]

I have an old Servis (now renamed as a Rhino by Servis) similar to the Bison NVH.

You want offset. You keep the tractor off of fences and out of the ditch (which you can now dig and clean out). I am glad I came across it. You can always add (probably an option on the Bison NVH too) for the snow blade skid shoes.

 

[Code54]

I have to agree, don't buy too light of a blade. I had a nice light one.... One root later I had a nice frame to use for another attachment I may build and a 6' piece of twisted scrap.....