Satoh 470D Ignition Switch

[Steve777]

Run into an unusual problem (I think) on my diesel Buck. Was trying to start it in some mildly cold weather (~25F) and had problems. At first it was as though the glow plugs weren't working. Then after a few tries, the starter stopped turning, and the oil and batt lights no longer came on when the key was in the run position. The key has a different "feel" to it as well, like it is not engaging the switch, in either direction. The tractor started just fine a couple of days ago (at ~45F).

I am thinking that the key part of the ignition switch is no longer engaged with the electrical switch part. That would explain the sudden lack of starter and no engine lights anymore in the run/on key position. Might also explain the hard starting earlier if the key was not really running the glow plugs.

Couple of questions from this:

Anyone ever run into this before?

Does the Buck have a separate electrical switch and key lock, or are they all one unit? And who might sell these?

As an immediate thing, can I just jumper a couple of wires and "hot wire" the tractor to run? I'm assuming that if I don't need lights, then once the tractor is running I really don't need any switch connections, that right?

TIA

 

[PILOON]

I don't know the Buck specifically but I run a MT180D which is very similar and have had switch issues as well.
My successful cure was to spray WD40 into the key slot.
Dismantling the switch showed dried up cruddy greese that had prevented good contacts and the WD softened all that up and got me back running.
Good luck, hope it works for you.

 

[bearcreek paul]

I have a mt 16 fd and had the same problem took the easy way out and just replaced the switch and it's worked fine since.Bill at valley power was a great help.

 

[evan price]

When I got my Buck the keyswitch would sometimes not fire the starter in Start and would not spring back to Run. I douched it good with parts cleaner through the keyhole, turned the key back and forth for a few minutes then sprayed in some PB Blaster and wiggled the key again. Since then, no trouble.

 

[hook574]

I just rewired an S470 and used the generic starter switch from Advance Auto for 10 bucks. The only difference I could see was that I used the acc position to power the glow plugs and it's not a momentary on anymore so you just have to be sure not to accidently leave it on when you turn the ignition off.

 

[skylarkguy]

I think I would spray some electrical contact cleaner into it and cycle the key a few time. Same Idea I guess as WD40 or PBblaster, but it evaporates eventually.

 

[PILOON]

I think I would spray some electrical contact cleaner into it and cycle the key a few time. Same Idea I guess as WD40 or PBblaster, but it evaporates eventually.

When I tried WD40 it was because I had no contact cleaner on hand.
From my avionics background I knew that WD40 could act as a reasonable substitute, furthermore the rep for WD40 had given me assurances that the product was harmless to electronic components.
Today it is a standby for me and in fact I spray my automotive keyholes yearly as well as all under the hood plugs on my vehicles.
I haven't has a frozen lock since I adopted this procedure.
While contact cleaner will wash out the dried lube it will also leave a dry bare contact that will soon wear itself away unless lube is added.

 

[skylarkguy]

Cool good to know on the contact cleaner...got to lube it afterwards.

 

[Steve777]

Thanks for the ideas.

Tried some WD40, as that was what I had lying around. Maybe a bit better (saw the dash lights come on for a bit with it). Picked up some PBBlaster, and tried that a couple of times, Success.

I guess the PB was better at dissolving whatever was in there. In any case it seems back to normal.

Many thanks. Probably would not have thought to try much beyond the WD40 in there.