S650G Hydraulic pump problems

[scubabandit]

I have a 650G that likes to eat hydraulic pumps. Yesterday I discovered that it has snapped the shaft on a second pump. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for a solution? Has anyone ever put a different hydraulic pump on one of these? The current system with the connector block seems like a very poor design to me.

 

[knothead541]

Had the same problem when I had a new connecting block machined. The material used was too hard. The block is supposed to give before the pump shaft.
I had a machine shop weld a longer piece onto the shaft to repair it and then used a 1/2" lovejoy connector. The rubber spyder wears out after a while but saves the pump.
You may also want to adjust the pressure relief on the power steering flow divider valve.

 

[Spruce Grouse]

Hi - just wondering where you get the 1/2" lovejoy connectors - I've had the same problem recently. Also, how do you adjust the pressure relief? (Sorry - I'm not much of a mechanic!)

 

[knothead541]

On units with power steering the flow divider is located on the right side just above the brake pedal. On top of the flow divider is a cap nut. Under the cap nut is a slotted threaded shaft and a lock nut. Hold the shaft stationary and loosen the lock nut. To reduce the relief pressure turn the shaft counter clockwise half a turn or so and re-tighten the lock nut while holding the shaft stationary. You want your pressure just high enough for your steering and other hydraulics to work properly. When you crank the wheels all the way left or right you put excessive pressure on the system and the valve is designed to prevent damage.
I buy my connectors at my local farm implement dealer. If you need more help just ask.

 

[Spruce Grouse]

Hello - the exact same thing has happened to me - were you able to resolve the problem? I am trying to get my (two) pumps repaired and will be looking for a different type of connector. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 650G that likes to eat hydraulic pumps. Yesterday I discovered that it has snapped the shaft on a second pump. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for a solution? Has anyone ever put a different hydraulic pump on one of these? The current system with the connector block seems like a very poor design to me.

 

[Spruce Grouse]

Hello again. I was talking to a supplier today and he wanted to know the series of the 1/2" Lovejoy connector i.e. L035, L050, L070 etc. Also, how is the connector locked onto the shafts - set screw? keyway? If a set screw, is it enough to keep it from turning on the shaft? I also went to a plastics place and inquired about using plastic material for a connector and got a couple of types of very hard plastic to experiment with. Thanks for your help!

 

[knothead541]

The connector I am using is a L-050. It has a set screw and that has been adequate. The shaft on the pully should have flat spots that you could set the screw into and you could machine a flat spot on the new pump shaft if you like.

 

[Spruce Grouse]

Great - thanks for your help!

 

[Jaydel29]

Great - thanks for your help!

I am doing a replacement after the local hydraulic shop is done going through my two blown pumps. The first was not rebuildable, they are looking at the second (Sparex replacement pump) now to see its internal condition.

I think a swap to a more "common" pump may be the best direction... AND the addition of a "flexible" coupler

 

[Spruce Grouse]

After going through a couple of pumps, it turns out the problem was in the 3-point hydraulic assembly which had to be dismantled and cleaned. The pressure buildup taking out the weakest point - the pump shaft. Seems to be working fine now.

 

[Jaydel29]

thanks for the info... i'm really hoping that is not the case for mine, but it certainly gives me something to keep on the radar

 

[Jaydel29]

So... i pulled the transfer adapter off the pulley/pump this evening and I think this may very well be the problem.

 

[hazeldel]

What bore size on the L-050.Guess a person can drill to size?Wonder if that lasted?

 

[hazeldel]

Replying to Jaydel29
I have exact same block issue.Seems like the block fits pulley shaft well but has play on pump shaft which ends up tearing up the block.Bad design.The only solution I have seen other then machine shop is to try the L050 coupler which is about 1.5 inches in length and will fit between shafts.The torque seems a little under rated though.Have not heard back on any forums on how long the L050 may hold up.

 

[hazeldel]

Love joy company calls for a 1/8 x 1/16 key for the L50 1/2 bore keyway.None of the local tractor places seem to carry it.

 

[hazeldel]

These posts are dead. Think I have reached the end of the internet.The rubber spider in the L50 did not last 30 minutes.

 

[Stressedsatoh]

I'm not sure if anyone is still following this. I had the same issues, figured it all out this last weekend all by myself. I have ruined a machined block and had a new one made, I have snapped a pump shaft after this new block was made. So a new pump was ordered and I decided to run with a love-joy coupling, didn't take 30 seconds to ruin that spider so I decided to measure my torque required to turn the new pump and came up with 51 inch pounds just to get it to start spinning. The L-50 coupling is rated for 25 inch pounds the L-70 is rated for 38 inch pounds but coupled together it's just over 2 inches long, and the amount of space you have between pump and the driver that is bolted to the rubber donut on the crank pulley is just over 2 inches. Now that wasn't all I did, that 3 bolt pump driver that has the flat that drives the pump, needs to have the holes widened because it isn't centered either. But to make matters worse how do you tighten the nuts on that part of the driver? I drilled holes in the head of the bolts so I could use safety wire it to the donut to keep them from turning as I tightened the nuts. I also had extra set screw holes drilled in the L-70 to hit both sides of the flat parts of the pump and driver. Now final assembly, bolt the rubber donut with the 3 bolts safety wired to the donut, now to center everything the Love-joy was tightened to the pump and the spider and other love-joy were assembled before inserting into pump opening, as it going together put the red driver on the love-joy and get it to line up with your bolts on the crank shaft, but do not tighten those nuts. Tighten your pump nuts on the studs then loosely tighten the 3 nuts on the driver to donut. Spin the engine by had to make sure it is all aligning up before you tighten the nuts on your driver.
I did mine this way and there is ZERO wobble or spider compression when the engine is turning. My next concern was how do I adjust the relief.... that's how I found this thread.
Questions? Send me a message and I'll see if I can answer. I have pictures and video on my phone but I'm using a work computer and did not feel like adding pictures to this computer.