S-373D Fluid Capacities?

[duwem]

Anyone know the fluid capacities of the engine, transmission and front axle and what fluid/viscosity is recommended.

My tractor needs all 3 changed.

Its the 3 cylinder 17hp diesel and 3 speed plus high/low trans with front wheel drive.

 

[284 International]

I'm sure someone on here has a service manual, and can give specific but the information I have is that the K3B engine takes 3.5 liters at an oil change, so you'll need 4 quarts of oil. In practice, I've learned all my little tractors take more or less a gallon of engine oil.

I run Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic diesel oil in everything I own. It's specified for my motorcycles, ATVs, pickup, and the tractors. It's easily available at Wal-Mart and quite affordable; conveniently, it comes in gallon jugs. It makes the math easy: at oil change, each tractor takes a jug, my sportbike takes a jug, and I use any leftovers in my ATV or KTM dirt bike.

Any diesel rated 15W40 oil will be fine in your Beaver, but even in warm California (where blossoms are beginning to break on some fruit trees this week!) the lighter 5 weight synthetic oil is noticeably easier to start cold.

The oil filter will be a Napa 1334 or equivalent; those fit many of the other compact tractors too.

I run whatever 85W90, 75W85, 75W90 etc gear oil is on sale in the front axles. It doesn't really matter that much. They're all about the same viscosity at higher temperatures as motor oils or the hydraulic fluid in the transmission:

Many run the same hydraulic fluid as in the transmission housing to cut back by one type of fluid. I don't think that's wrong, but it doesn't bother me to have an additional type of oil to change, and I also have a (wrongheaded) ulterior motive: The gear oil is thicker when not at operating temperatures, so the axle seals don't really leak much, they just sort of leach a bit. I'm afraid that if I ran something else, they would leak more, and I would have to fix it. :laughing:

I think the capacity will be somewhere between 2.5 to 4 quarts. I'm not sure, since I haven't replaced the non-engine fluids in my ST1440. But my next size up Yanmar 186D calls for 3.5 quarts, and I have a manual for a Ford 1210 of the same size as the Beaver, and it calls for 1.5 liters in the axle housing, and another .2 liters in each gear reduction case, or about 2 quarts overall.

For hydraulic/transmission fluid, run something that is equivalent to John Deere 303, International Harvester (IH) Hy-Tran or several others. Most will list those. It will say something like "Universal tractor fluid." Make sure to pull the filter screen in the suction line and to clean it well.

 

[duwem]

I'm in WI so I will definitely go for the lighter weight engine oil.

Engine has a Fleetguard LF3403 on it now.

Is there a plug you pull and fill till it spills out for the transmission? I believe this is how the front axle is.

Do I need to replace the gasket for the screen filter when I clean it?

The gear oil will be fine for the hydraulic pump for the 3pt lift?

Thanks for all the info thus far.

 

[284 International]

I would run the tractor hydraulic fluid in the transmission because it is designed not to foam or bubble as much, is designed to lubricate the pump, and it is cheaper, at least around here. The fill level plug, as I recall, is on the left side of the transmission housing. I have read that the Mitsubishi/Satoh manuals advised gear oil in the transmission, but this is incorrect according to the guys at Valley Power. Some models have divorced transmission and hydraulic fluid reservoirs, so this may be the source of confusion.

The gasket is probably reusable as long as it is not torn; I would have a tube of oil- resistant silicone gasket maker (or, better, order a proper gasket from Valley Power) ready.

The Fleetguard filter should cross to many others. Fram, Napa, Wix, Baldwin and others make equivalent filters I have used.

 

[oliver28472]

For the trans/rear case there is a fill level plug on the left side about where your heel would be. Looks like a bolt head that just screws in the side of the housing. There are two drain plugs on the bottom. The screen is on the right side near the bottom and is held in with two bolts. There is an o-ring here, no gasket. The screen just needs to be cleaned unless there is a hole in the mesh. The rear will hold roughly 3.5 gallons. I have manuals but not with me and have done the fronts. I just get it on level ground, usually taking both front tires off and put on jack stands with a pan under each hub. Then pour in about what it is supposed to have, let it have time to level out then pour in a little more at a time until it comes out both level plugs.

 

[duwem]

I got the Napa oil filter and it was larger than the fleetguard one that was on there, so thats good.

Put in about 3.5 quarts of 5w30 Shell Rotella Synthetic.

Drained the trans (2 different drain plugs on either side) and cleaned the filter. Filled it up with Farm and Fleet John Deere universial hy trans fluid. Need to buy a little more as I had a partial container.