Rotary laser level grader
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aczlan
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Most have an up and down arrow on the LCD display. That could be used to trigger a relay which could control a electric over hydraulic valve block.
Aaron Z
You can do it by reading the voltage from the indicator lights or optically with 3 photo detectors. The problem you will have is tuning. A control signal that's just on or off based on whether you are on grade or not won't cut it.
Look up proportional control. You'll need to basically build your own detector with 20 or more detection points vertically to make this work right. I'd just use an existing system with manual control. Look up the cr600 by spectra for a cheap solution.
Look up proportional control. You'll need to basically build your own detector with 20 or more detection points vertically to make this work right. I'd just use an existing system with manual control. Look up the cr600 by spectra for a cheap solution.
GE222
Gold Member
The detector will need to have an analog output.
The output could then be brought into a low cost programmable controller.
The programmable controller's analog output would then go to the actuator.
The controller would provide the ability to tune the output response, relative to the actuator movement. An example, is how fast the blade would move up and down, as well as how much it would move.
The output could then be brought into a low cost programmable controller.
The programmable controller's analog output would then go to the actuator.
The controller would provide the ability to tune the output response, relative to the actuator movement. An example, is how fast the blade would move up and down, as well as how much it would move.
JRP
Platinum Member
I bought the CR600 and am not happy. The batteries corroded a little metal clip. No parts available. Spectra tol me to throw it away and buy another. Nice for spectra.
Proportional control would be nice, but not necessary. The CR600 has a way you can get the up down signal from it, but it is not documented. You could use a four way three position solenoid valve to operate a hydraulic top link. The rate of fluid flow and your speed would define how well it worked. Those two variables would be your tuning.
I put a 2x2 tubing coming up from the rear of my BB and just raise or lower the box using the manual valve for the hydraulic top link. I do wish the CR600 mast had a electric raise/lower because the measurement range is pretty short.
The commercial dealers for Spectra could wire and valve up any equipment for lot of cash.
If you choose the CR600 take the batteries out.
Proportional control would be nice, but not necessary. The CR600 has a way you can get the up down signal from it, but it is not documented. You could use a four way three position solenoid valve to operate a hydraulic top link. The rate of fluid flow and your speed would define how well it worked. Those two variables would be your tuning.
I put a 2x2 tubing coming up from the rear of my BB and just raise or lower the box using the manual valve for the hydraulic top link. I do wish the CR600 mast had a electric raise/lower because the measurement range is pretty short.
The commercial dealers for Spectra could wire and valve up any equipment for lot of cash.
If you choose the CR600 take the batteries out.
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Would any of these work?
Would any of these work?
smiley
Gold Member
I have no idea how to wire it for automatic control, but am wondering what you're grading to need that kind of accuracy??? The last time I used laser control was on an airport and very few jobs require that kind of accuracy. Usually when required, laser receivers are mounted on both sides of dozer and grader blades and the blade is in front of the tracks, or between the wheels so the tracks/wheels are working on an already accurately graded surface. Unless your subgrade is already very close and you're laying a thin finish layer of evenly granulated material, your tractor could be rocking and rolling on the terrain and with the blade behind you, may quickly rock the boxblade up or down outside the range of the receivers. I'd think you would need quite a high force actuator to raise and lower a blade???
You might get away with manual control using the spectra type boxes and trying to keep between the arrows but I think it would be tough.
Should be an interesting project though so go for it!!!
Last edited:
jimgerken
Veteran Member
Last year about this time I was thinking like you (the OP). I felt it would be very nice to have the boxblade controlled by the sefl-leveling rotary lazer I bought. Because I couldn't really pull it together technically, I started grading maunually, and then periodically checking the result with the lazer. It turned out to actually be much faster and easier to do it another way however, so I switched to this method:
I would do the best job I could visually, with the boxblade and loader (I was both cutting down into a hillside, and using the soil to build up other areas, to get a building level site). I'd work for a period, maybe an afternoon or a couple hours, then drag out the hose and sprinkler, turn it on the site, and let it run for the night. Next day turn it off and wait a couple hours, doing something else of course wheile waiting. After most of the water dried, low spots were the last to dry. This makes them easy to see. I'd get a bucket of dirt, fill the low spot, backdrag it, pack it in the low spot, and drive over it. Then either put the hose on again (if it was looking close), or start dirt moving with boxblade again (if it was still inches off level). And repeat, repeat, repeat. Many thin layers packed in with tractor wheels and watered into place with the hose sprinkler at night. In the end, I could get the site within a half inch with this method, which I felt was plenty close for rough grade before sand fill. And I knew it was compacted well with the water involved. Many thin layers, that is important.
Good luck.
I would do the best job I could visually, with the boxblade and loader (I was both cutting down into a hillside, and using the soil to build up other areas, to get a building level site). I'd work for a period, maybe an afternoon or a couple hours, then drag out the hose and sprinkler, turn it on the site, and let it run for the night. Next day turn it off and wait a couple hours, doing something else of course wheile waiting. After most of the water dried, low spots were the last to dry. This makes them easy to see. I'd get a bucket of dirt, fill the low spot, backdrag it, pack it in the low spot, and drive over it. Then either put the hose on again (if it was looking close), or start dirt moving with boxblade again (if it was still inches off level). And repeat, repeat, repeat. Many thin layers packed in with tractor wheels and watered into place with the hose sprinkler at night. In the end, I could get the site within a half inch with this method, which I felt was plenty close for rough grade before sand fill. And I knew it was compacted well with the water involved. Many thin layers, that is important.
Good luck.