Rookie starting 640 makeover

[CECILSSTEEL]

Recently came into possession of my uncles 640 Ford that he purchased new back in the late 50s. Appearance wise the tractor has weathered and a complete paint makeover is in order. I plan to repaint to the original color scheme and would like to use a durable corrosion resistant weatherable paint that is easy to apply for a nonprofessional painter. Intend to return to a good looking work tractor for planting & cultivation service.

Need advise on what type of paints are best and any tips for applying. Have a standard Binks compressed air spray gun.

 

[flusher]

Recently came into possession of my uncles 640 Ford that he purchased new back in the late 50s. Appearance wise the tractor has weathered and a complete paint makeover is in order. I plan to repaint to the original color scheme and would like to use a durable corrosion resistant weatherable paint that is easy to apply for a nonprofessional painter. Intend to return to a good looking work tractor for planting & cultivation service.

Need advise on what type of paints are best and any tips for applying. Have a standard Binks compressed air spray gun.

Since you want to use this 640 in the field rather than as a parade tractor, I'd use the relatively inexpensive tractor paints at Tractor Supply and an HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight. That's what I used to restore the paint job on my 1964 MF-135 diesel.

I don't think you want the $100 per quart paint that some folks use to create showpiece restorations.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree... for a worker.. go get the BPS alkyd enamil paint and some hardner and their primer.

shoot a coat of primer, then a cople coats of pain and she will be good to go for years of field service.

pressure wash her. just keep it off seals and distrib..etc.

wire brush any loose paint off the cast.. sand electrolysis the tin.. then hang, prime and paint.

should be good to go... it's what I do on all my workers.. and I use a 20$ chinese binks knockoff gun..

soundguy

 

[Rick from NC]

If you want to step up a notch from the TSC paints all of the top automotive refinish paint companies have economy lines. I have good luck using PPG's Omni line. Their MP170 Epoxy Primer is a huge improvement over the oil based primers from TSC. It costs about $90 per gallon including the catalyst(mixed 2:1). If you don't have access to a supplied air system I would stay away from hardners & urethanes since they all contain isocyanates which are not filtered by any type of respirator. Many take the risk and use them anyway. Your lungs, your call. To be safe, without supplied air you are limited to straight acrylic enamel. In the Omni line straight acrylic enamel is MAE. Be aware that unhardened MAE takes a long time to cure so you'll have to wait days or weeks to sand out and fix any runs or orange peel. I've also heard you can wipe it off with solvent or a reducer before it starts to cure but I've never tried that.

If you have access to a supplied air system you can use hardened acrylic enamel or acrylic urethanes. Urethanes are the toughest most gas & oil resisant paints available. In the Omni line single stage urethane is MTK (single stage means its not a base coat/clear coat system).

If you have an O'Reilly's auto parts store close by many of them carry Dupont and its econmy line called Nason. There are similar products available in the Nason line but I have never used them.

 

[Soundguy]

If you want to believe the valspar hardner can, you can get away with painting in fresh air with some reasonable safety precautions.

IMHO.. waiting weeks for paint to dry is a bad situation waiting for bad things to happen to that uncured paint.

90$ a gallon is still stiff for the average guy wanting some rust prevention.. especially since BPS is 20 or so bucks per gallon.

down here in florida.. car-quest auto stores also carry the nason line.. etc..

soundguy

 

[Rick from NC]

Sounder

Everybody has their own pain threshold on the cost. I just wanted the guy to know there are other options. I painted my IH B275 about 10 years ago with Rustoleum paint & primer. It looked good for a few years but began to fade after that. Some parts are starting to look pink now so I'm gonna have to do something with it before long. The BPS may be a step above the rustoleum I'm not sure. I'm sure the hardner increases the durability.

I guess Valpsar can get away with the label since they are selling the hardner to guys who will paint maybe a couple of tractors per year. I've been tempted to try it but never got up the nerve since I paint inside with a fan pulling out the fumes. I've never had much luck painting outside (bugs, dust, etc...).

The Nason Fastdry acrylic enamel w/o hardner can be recoated in 48 hours. I think on my next project I will try using the PPG MP170 epoxy primer and the Nason Fastdry AE for the topcoat. With this combo I can probably paint a tractor for about $200.

Rick

 

[tderrick]

Welcome aboard! I know you'll love that 6 series. I just picked up one myself.
I've been bush hogging my brains out with all the rain we've been getting here
in Tennessee...

I can't help with any paint input, but if these guys don't know, no one does.

I couldn't have fixed up mine without them...

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It took ONE paint job using that very same Valspar hardener for me to come down with symptoms of asthma that don't go away. DO NOT take the chance. Use full body protection (chem suit) and a fresh air supply system (NOT just a charcoal mask) Icocyanites can be absorbed through skin as well as breathing. Some people are more susceptable to the effects than others. Once you find out you're one of "the lucky ones", it's too late.

I've painted dozens of tractors since. I bought a fresh air system. (Found it on EBAY) I'd suggest buying one, use it, then re-sell if you don't plan on using it again. Don't take the risk. I own a couple different HVLP gravity guns. A VERY expensive Sharpe and a VERY cheap "Huskee" (from Home Depot) Very little difference in quality of paint work between the pair.

I don't care much for the TSC paints after using them a few times. They just don't hold up to hard use or constant sunlight exposure like better paints. For an occasional user, or a tractor that'll stay in the barn most of the time, it's OK, but just OK.... I prefer true acrylic enamels or uerathane (sp) paints. Avoid high end multi-component "paint systems" unless you have a LOT of experience or an experienced teacher. They can be rather frustrating.

NAPA is a good common source for better paints in most areas.

 

[Rick from NC]

FWJ,

Do you use Crossfire paints & primers from NAPA? I've heard they have a good acrylic enamel but I'm wondering if they have an epoxy primer similar to Omni MP170.

Rick

 

[Soundguy]

FWJ brings up a good point.. the hardner issue is an individual issue.. some people are seemingly uneffected while others have near lethal reactions. I've heard stories of people walking around a recently painted tractor, while it was curing, and had iso-related breathing problems. then there are the guys that paint around it with no problems.

I paint outside in open air with uideally, a 2-5 mph wind.. I usually lay down plastic or wet the ground first to cut bugs.. don't paint inthe direct sun, and watch the temp extremes .. ie.. above 50 and below 90'f. for some.. that's fine.. for others.. that will simply be too much exposure.

can't bring up a good argument against a fresh air breathing system... though i don't use one myself.


to Rick from NC... wow.. the rustoleum died in a few years? then BPS will deffinately give you better results..

soundguy