Rob-Bilt Pole Barns

[PineTreeFarmer]

Has anyone dealt with Rob-Bilt our of Tahlequah, OK? Or had a barn built by these folks?

I found them online, and got what I beleive is a great quote for a 30'x30'x10' with 2x6 trusses, 5x5 posts, 2x6 pt girts, 2x4 perlins on 2' centers, 29 gauge metal roof / sides and a 10' overhead opening, 2-3x4 windows.

all for under $8K installed.

Anyone? I've Googled these folks and can't find any complaints, or compliments. Rob-Bilt - The Pole Barn Professionals

Thanks!
PTF

 

[bindian]

Has anyone dealt with Rob-Bilt our of Tahlequah, OK? Or had a barn built by these folks?

I found them online, and got what I beleive is a great quote for a 30'x30'x10' with 2x6 trusses, 5x5 posts, 2x6 pt girts, 2x4 perlins on 2' centers, 29 gauge metal roof / sides and a 10' overhead opening, 2-3x4 windows.

all for under $8K installed.

Anyone? I've Googled these folks and can't find any complaints, or compliments. Rob-Bilt - The Pole Barn Professionals

Thanks!
PTF

PTF,
That is a great price. However, how much wind will it stand against? Down here we use 6x6 or 6 inch round poles 4 feet in the ground. I am using Mueller Inc. metal on my barn and it is all 26 guage guaranteed for 30 years.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/106272-my-pole-barn-solo-affair.html
My barn is 30x44 and I have more in materials than the price you were quoted, doing it all myself. But mine will stand up to a hurricane.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EddieWalker]

... and got what I beleive is a great quote for a 30'x30'x10' with 2x6 trusses, 5x5 posts, 2x6 pt girts, 2x4 perlins on 2' centers, 29 gauge metal roof / sides and a 10' overhead opening, 2-3x4 windows.

all for under $8K installed.

That's under $9 a square foot, which is a pretty good price. I've heard that you can do it for $10 a foot, but never got serious on pricing one out. It sounds too good to be true, so I'd be very cautious and warry before commiting to anything.

A few warning signs are with upfront money. If he asks for so much upfront, get nervous. If he has any history at all, he should have credit and not need upfront cash. If he's a poor business man and in debt, he'll want upfront money to bribe his crew to show up for work. Also another bad sign. Be cautious of a payement schedule that doesn't reflect work that has been done. Some will charge for their time regardless of what they have finished off. Once paid, it's hard to get them back to work. Find out if they have other jobs going on at the same time they will be working on your job. It's unbelievably frustrating to have a job sitting without anybody there working on it. Even worse to find out they are working on another job becuase they started yours before finishing up other projects.

When I do a big job material wise, I order the materials and have my client pay for them. This commits both of us to the job without any of my clients money going towards me and my guys. I only get paid when I finish a stage of construction to the clients satisfaction. When I'm done with that part of construction, I submit my bill and they pay me. Then we move on to the next phase of construction.

Since you don't know this contractor, check to see if he's lisenced. Here in Texas, you can go online and see who is lisenced real quick and easy. When I go in with a client for their loan, the bank always checks online to make sure I'm lisenced before making the loan.

Get a list of refrences and go talk to those people. Don't do it over the phone, you want to be sure they are legitimate people that he's actually built barns for and not friends and family coached to tell stories over the phone. If they are happy with their barn, they will be more then happy to show it to you. Go look at the workmanship in person. I have clients that keep my signs up all year and have been known to show off my work to total strangers who were driving by and stoped to ask about me just from the sign in front of the house. It's amazing how much work I've gotten from word of mouth and those signs!!!

Don't make the mistake of hiring based on price alone. Sometimes cheaper isn't cheaper at all.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[JimW1950]

My Father-in-Law had them build a 30x50x10 in 1991 in Iron County, MO. They did a great job and he has been well pleased with it.

 

[PineTreeFarmer]

thanks for all the replies.

Ya, material alone for a 30x30x10 from a local dealer will run me no less than 7K already, including metal roof and siding and factory made trusses.

I'm going to end up doing it my self, the only person I have to blame then is me, and I can control the cost/quality/time.

I defiantely agree with the cash up front as EddieWalker mentioned. If he really wanted, all he'd have to do it put a lien on my place if I didn't pay him, granted a lien doesn't pay the bills but gives him an interesting twist if I didn't pay him.

Most likely go with the Mueller metal and build it to my specs and quality.

thanks for all the input.
PTF

 

[firefighter9208]

Definitely go with 26ga. vs. 29ga. 29 ga. is extremely flimsy and dents easily when walking on it (if you step in the wrong place). 26 ga. is like walking on plywood. I did a lean-to w/29 ga. and wish it was 26 ga. I have 26 ga. on my barn.

Chris

 

[CATMAN]

Ditto, on the 26 gauge sheetmetal that firefighter9208 mentioned. Big enough hail will even puncture a 26 gauge. It happened to my Dad's shed, but insurance replaced it. Hate to see how easily hail could go thru (dent or crack open) 29 gauge sheetmetal roof.

 

[getindirty]

I had a 40x60 built for $10 per sq ft. Best contractor around. Look in the neighborhood for other sheds and ask the owner. Kinar paint is suppose to be good too. So not only do you want thick meatl but a good paint. McElroy metal is the man in our area. Also Waynescoat! The bottom 3 ft will take all the abuse and will need replaced. You don't want to buy 10' pieces or longer. Good luck.