Ripper on a 2" tool bar.

[RalphVa]

Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

A friend of mine has what's called a soil ripper with the tines mounted on a 2" tool bar. It was designed to run on his old JD M. He doesn't need it any more and wants to give it to me. It has 7 tines with huge coils, giving them spring, mounted on the 2" tool bar, that is about 6' wide. Would have to have him cut this big beast of a bar to a shorter length in order not to hang trees, grape vines, doors, etc. with the thing back there.

Trouble is, to convert it to my 3 pt, I'd need a $290 conversion kit that the dealer came up with that's available for them. That's before freight is added on.

In an Olsheln catalog, I found a KK row cultivator that looks similar to it listing for $140, complete with 3 pt and 6 tines. KK also makes a tine cutivator with about 9 or so tines operated from the 3 pt. It would probably be just a little bit more money. So, I told my friend that it didn't look like a good deal to me.

Not sure about the lift height and all, too. The tines on this old machine are about 18" high. The total lift height on my JD 4010 is 24" at the end of the draft arms. The lift pins would have to be at or below the level of the 2" bar holding the tines.

Think I'll hold out for a 3 pt tiller, possibly used or borrowed or rented.

Ralph

 

[RonR]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Ralph,

I used to have that implement with my JD M. It worked great for tilling the soil.

You are correct that you would have to modify the attach point to make it fit your 3PH. $290 sounds pretty steep though! I would think that with a local welder, you could buy a middle buster type deal for about $100 and have him weld it together with your implement for less than $200. Or do it yourself for much less.

The JD implement will be a lot heavier than any KK tool you would buy. It would rip the soil better than a KK cultivator.

On mine, I replaced the points on the shanks with old chisel sweeps I got from a local farmer. In our sandy loam, I could work the ground once, let it sit for a week, then work it again and it was very nice.

Ron

 

[RalphVa]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Figured it out after going to bed. Finally got up and finished watching TT beat Cal. Appreciate the feedback on how well it works.

All I need to do is to buy one of those 3 pt drawbars. The tool has 2 U-shaped parts with holes that will pin to the drawbar. Then all I need are a couple straps to attach to the outher holes of the drawbar, go up to almost join in the middle, through which I put a pin for the top link. Then a chain or 2 from there back to a tine or tines. Should be less than $100 worth of stuff.

TSC is open. Plan to go out and buy the drawbar. Then I'll go down and measure the straping on my bush hog as a model, to get the height, etc.

The guy who has the tool is handy enough that he can cut the 2" bar to length and make the straping out of whatever he can find (or I buy for him).

Next feetsball game starts at 12 today. The biggie is next week with my alma mater against USC.

Ralph

 

[RonR]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Unless you really need the shorter bar to clear trees or such, I wouldn't cut it shorter yet. If you lack the power to pull it, then you could go ahead and cut it off (or just remove the outter shank(s).

Once it is cut, it would be harder to "re-install" it.

After you mentioned the "U" shaped parts, I recalled clearer how mine looked. If I were doing it, I'd try to weld that up pretty solid so it doesn't flex at that joint. I don't recall if the long arm (going to the belly lift under the JD M) was welded on or just clamped like the shanks. If it is welded, you would have to remove it, so the unit could not easily go back to fitting a JD anyway. No need to preserve the "U" mounts in that case.


Hope this helps.
Ron

 

[RalphVa]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

I want to have the drawbar to use as a drawbar for when I unpin the "U" pieces. I'll adjust the chains from the top link back to one or two of the rippers to lower it to the proper depth with a tight chain. Hopefully, it'll lift high enough for work. For transport, I can tighten up on the top link.

I'm gonna have him cut the bar. Else, I'll surely hook it on something. There's not much clearance going down a couple of my wooded paths. One reason I went with the smaller 4010 machine and its lower ROPS.

His old M is supposed to be the same hp as my 4010, but they measured hp different in those days. He's got a whole lot more traction with his ag tires and wheel weights on fronts and rear, but it's only 2wd.

Ralph

 

[RonR]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

My M was a pulling machine! When I got it, it had fluid in both fronts and rears, plus wheel weights both front and rear. When I took the front wheels off to paint them, I couldn't believe how HEAVY they were.

The steering gears were shot due to all the weight it was carrying up front. And the rims were damaged from the calcium.

I had that tractor for 10+ years and it worked great. It was different from my 22HP Kubota in that it weighed more. In low gear, I could spin the tires pulling a plow as deep as it would go.

OTOH, my Bota is sure easier to drive and the hydraulics are a dream.

Different tractors; different tasks; different pleasures.

Enjoy.

Ron

 

[RalphVa]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Yesterday, my friend delivered the adaptor that we designed to mount the soil ripper on the 3 pt.

With the warm weather, I primered it yesterday and put 2 coats of JD green on it today.

Hopefully, I can put it back together and post some pics of it here soon. I'm also "cooking" the first 2 pieces of the ripper itself in electrolysis solution to remove some rust before painting it. This will take a while because there are 10 pieces to it.

What I did was buy one of the 3 pt drawbars and then my friend bent some metal to form an upper part to attach the top link to. The lower part of the bent metal rests, bolted onto the drawbar. Did it for about $70 worth of material. JD wanted $290 for an adaptor.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Here's a pic of the drawbar that I designed for attaching the soil ripper to. I've another top link that I'll attach to the top 2 holes and back to a pair of bars on the soil ripper bar, to lift it.

The total cost of the materials was $75. My friend who has given me the soil ripper works in a machine shop and did the upper part of the drawbar and the 2 bars and some hardware for mounting them onto the soil ripper bar.

Gotta buy a couple 5/8" pins to attach the soil ripper pull points to the drawbar. I've all the pieces of it inerted with rust reformer/extender that turned it to black iron sulfide. Tried using electrolysis, but it didn't work too well. Think most of the soil ripper metal is cast or pig iron stuff, not rusted much. Mainly just knocked some small flake stuff loose and applied the reformer/extender.

Will post another pic after I've assembled the soil ripper.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

Here's a pic of the soil ripper put back together. It's iron sulfide black now. Might leave it that way. Can't really paint until spring/summer.

Both links are shortened for transport. Can lengthen them for leveling it for use. One link is the top link on the drawbar. The other goes back to a dual set of bars attached to the 2" bar of the ripper. Works pretty good.

Ralph

 

[Nasty135]

Re: Ripper on a 2\" tool bar.

RalphVa, That is a very nice looking rig ya got there, Looks like it would work great with (my tractor /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) some what loose soil (previously tilled or plowed) Happy gardening /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif