Riding mower will not crank

[onyxtacular]

Memorial day weekend here and time to get the old mower going. I bought it off a guy last year and it ran fine. Now when I try to start it nothing happens at all...no turning of the starter..not even a click. I think it is the battery because it was going out last year...had to jump it a couple of times but then it would be fine til the next week. So I put a new battery in and still the same thing.

Looks like it going to be a push mower kinda weekend...

I notice I have a cable not connected but I don't it has ever been connected but I cannot swear to it one way or another. Here is a picture of the connector

I'm hoping someone is familiar with this model
B&S
15.5 HP Diamond I/C
Model 28N707
Type 0115-01
Code 961226Z0

TIA

 

[flusher]

Did you charge the new battery?

Clean all the connections in the battery cables and the posts on the battery. Find the ground connection to the chassis and clean it.

My old 2005 Huskee 42" mower from Tractor Supply had a high resistance short in the electrical system that ran the battery down. Rather than tear into the wiring, when I parked the mower I disconnected the battery (both cables) and kept it on a trickle charger. Never had a starting problem afterwards.

Good luck

 

[onyxtacular]

Did you charge the new battery?

Clean all the connections in the battery cables and the posts on the battery. Find the ground connection to the chassis and clean it.

My old 2005 Huskee 42" mower from Tractor Supply had a high resistance short in the electrical system that ran the battery down. Rather than tear into the wiring, when I parked the mower I disconnected the battery (both cables) and kept it on a trickle charger. Never had a starting problem afterwards.

Good luck

I have very little experience with engines. That being said I didn't think to charge the battery. I do have a trickle charger, I'll put that on and see if that changes anything.

I did more investigating and found there is a fuse that is blown, so I'll replace that and see also



there is another disconnected wire in there.

Does anyone know where I can get a manual?

Thanks

 

[onyxtacular]

it seems this is the culprit that's shorting the fuse. Does anyone know what this is?

Thanks,

 

[Soundguy]

looks like a fuel key/off solenoid to me.

 

[onyxtacular]

yes... after some research that's what I found out. I was told as a work around I could remove the solenoid then cut off the plunger and things should be savvy. She was cranking like a beast before I did the plungerotomy now she does this:

Any suggestions out there?

 

[Walt 2002]

Well the solenoid on the bottom of the carb has nothing to do with the symptoms shown in Video. I suggest you remove the spark plug to see if it is hydro locked from fuel leaking into cylinder. No luck there, remove valve cover and check out push rods, set valve clearance. IF you need Instructions on adjusting valves, contact me at address below, remind me engine model number and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com

 

[nikdfish]

Don't overlook the possibility of a blown fuse. That happened to me this week on a mower with a known bad battery I figured to jump start. Jumped ok on first try following replacing the fuse, after initially being nonresponsive.

Nick

 

[Walt 2002]

Worth a try BUT I see no connection between a blown fuse and the symptoms exhibited in video.

Walt Conner

 

[onyxtacular]

Turns out the info I got about doing the plungerotomy was not good. The plunger must stop the flow of all fuel until the engine is running. Walt you were right about the hydro lock...when I removed the spark plug fuel came gushing out. Unfortunately now that the plunger is gone the engine will continue to flood. I have to get my hands on another solenoid.

 

[Soundguy]

the burnt connector ont he wire to the fuel stop solenoid is the telling part.

 

[onyxtacular]

Good Point Soundguy...How do I make sure the new one doesn't just burn up again?

 

[Soundguy]

that burnt connection tells me high current OR bad connection causing heat.

High current would be a short. IE. perhaps the solenoid winding was not in circuit and supply line was hitting case.

ohm out the old burnt wire to the solenoid case. Might show short.. might not. after you worked on it, might have dislodged what was shorting it.

In either case, put the new one on.. check to see if there is a fuse in that line., if so.. make sure it is sized correctly to protect that wire.

 

[Walt 2002]

"The plunger must stop the flow of all fuel until the engine is running" "Unfortunately now that the plunger is gone the engine will continue to flood. I have to get my hands on another solenoid."

Not so. The plunger in that solenoid only stops the flow of fuel to the main carb jet to prevent after fire, it does NOT stop all fuel flow. Always be cautious of any advice which recommends doing permanent damage to a part. I could have told you how to check out that solenoid without damaging it.

It will continue to flood the engine unless you install an inline fuel shut off valve in the gas line and use it each time the engine is shut off. You can install a new carb float needle but chances are it will continue to leak and even if you put in a new float needle, you still need to install an inline shut off.

Also, you need to change the oil because it most likely is contaminated with gas.

Walt Conner