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Reverse Flow Smoker Project
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Mark @ Everlast
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It's going to depend on how you mount that door, and what you are shooting for. Ordinariliy, no you won't need it. But, if you intend on just having the door lay flat on the metal, then you probably should run som extra trim around the side to create a "lip" seal. This could be from some angle iron welded to seal the edges or some flat bar welded on the sides.
Here's a couple of pictures from some I did with the "lip" in a couple of different applications.
Here's a couple of pictures from some I did with the "lip" in a couple of different applications.
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Hi Mark,
That's kind of where I'm heading. I just found some self adhesive type gasket for smokers. Looks like it might do the trick. How large of a fire box do you think this will need? The body is 3x3x5. I've never cooked on one before. I have heard the reverse flow design was the way to go. I like the smokers you built! Looks great!
That's kind of where I'm heading. I just found some self adhesive type gasket for smokers. Looks like it might do the trick. How large of a fire box do you think this will need? The body is 3x3x5. I've never cooked on one before. I have heard the reverse flow design was the way to go. I like the smokers you built! Looks great!
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
The particular smoker with the large chrome pipes WAS a reverse flow cooker. It came from a semi pro Barbeque champion of whole hog. He did not like it. So, I rebuilt it...something I don't recommend unless you like smelling like greasy hog when you are head down welding. The way I build them, the heat is even and works through the smoker with very little cold or hot spots. Reverse flows can have hot spots. I've cooked on them myself, and well,
Reverse flow takes forever to get hot and they do not draw well. I find that a good draw is key to being able to successfully regulate the temperature EXACTLY the way you want. One third the size(volume) of the main cooker is the rule of thumb, but I have gotten away with a smaller one on some of them. It really depends upon the design, draw and heat and smoke diffusion.
IF I did reverse flow, I would probably make it propane and supplement it with a wood "chip" box. This type design lends itself and makes the most sense that way. The propane will heat better, quicker, and is more controllable. The heat from the propane can fire the chips to smoke exactly the way you want. Build a water box on top of the reverse flow plate too.
Reverse flow takes forever to get hot and they do not draw well. I find that a good draw is key to being able to successfully regulate the temperature EXACTLY the way you want. One third the size(volume) of the main cooker is the rule of thumb, but I have gotten away with a smaller one on some of them. It really depends upon the design, draw and heat and smoke diffusion.
IF I did reverse flow, I would probably make it propane and supplement it with a wood "chip" box. This type design lends itself and makes the most sense that way. The propane will heat better, quicker, and is more controllable. The heat from the propane can fire the chips to smoke exactly the way you want. Build a water box on top of the reverse flow plate too.
jwmorris
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The first pic is an up close of the first smoker I built with 1/8" x 1 flat strap as a seal for the door on the inside of the smoker. Doing a "burn out" warped it so I skip welded the larger one a bit closer.
On the big one I also made the hinges on the inside of the doors so everything was flush and they stay "greased" and can't rust up.
You can also see the auto start that uses a spark plug, solenoid and propane to get the wood going at a preset time. So you don't have to get out of bed at 6 to start the fire.
On the big one I also made the hinges on the inside of the doors so everything was flush and they stay "greased" and can't rust up.
You can also see the auto start that uses a spark plug, solenoid and propane to get the wood going at a preset time. So you don't have to get out of bed at 6 to start the fire.
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jwmorris
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My soultion to perfect temperature control was to use a PID control with a thermocouple in the smoke stack, that controls an old power window motor that opens and closes the damper.
Never takes a nap and makes cooking with a smoker and wood just like an oven.
Never takes a nap and makes cooking with a smoker and wood just like an oven.
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jwmorris
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OP
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So Mark, where is the firebox placement on the smoker you like? Anybody else out there have preferences on smoker design? Reverse Flow or not? I still have time to change what I have planned?
Mark @ Everlast
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In the center...or directly under it, running the length of it.
I built one several years ago with one directly under it. The fire box had another plate built into it at the top on an angle so the "exhaust" was about a 3 inch wide strip running most of the length of the smoker. Then I installed a "heat" diffuser plate in the bottom with BOTH ends open and the smoke stacks in the middle of the top part.
With the ones mounted in the center, I have a diffuse plate in them and the heat exits fairly close to the bottom with a damper between the fire box and the main smoking chamber.
I've made them in "T" or made the box run parallel to the smoking chamber.
I built one several years ago with one directly under it. The fire box had another plate built into it at the top on an angle so the "exhaust" was about a 3 inch wide strip running most of the length of the smoker. Then I installed a "heat" diffuser plate in the bottom with BOTH ends open and the smoke stacks in the middle of the top part.
With the ones mounted in the center, I have a diffuse plate in them and the heat exits fairly close to the bottom with a damper between the fire box and the main smoking chamber.
I've made them in "T" or made the box run parallel to the smoking chamber.
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Ted Summey
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Mark, on your smokers, what is the grill temp for whole hog, butts or shoulders? I have just restored a 40 year old pit type cooker made from 275 gallon fuel oil tanks. We usually cook in the 225 degree range. I use a burn barrel to burn hickory and oak and shovel the coals into the cooker. You can't see the fire brick lining in the pic. We get fairly even cooking using this method. I have two more oil tanks to make cookers and am considering a different design.
