Retract my views on FWD lever

   / Retract my views on FWD lever #1  

daedong

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2003
Messages
1,265
Location
South Australia
I know in the past that i have been a advocate for changing into FWD using your foot while on the move. will, i think i will be changing my views on this practice. Today something has broken inside the gear box, i am guessing i have broken the dog on the end of the selector shaft that goes it to the gear box. I am not sure at this stage but i think i will have to split the tractor to replace what ever it is.

I will keep you all up to date on what happens from here.
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Hi,

I have my tractor back but have made no comments on what failed because it is unclear at this stage. The dog on the end of the selector shaft was short and would not engage, however the odd thing is it was polished on the end, also why would cast steel break and not bend, and thirdly why did the roll pin that holds the lever to the shaft not give and last there was no broken off peice found. I have had conversations with my local dealer as well as the national distributor.

This forum obviously plays a very big customer research for Daedong. I received an email from the National distributor today wanting to know my plight with my tractor. I understand that someone at Daedong USA had read this post and contacted the Australia Distributor, Amazing as this may seem one must be impressed with Daedong and there commitment to their customers. They not just have a good product but fall over backwards to maintain great customer relations for which I must thank them.
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I understand that someone at Daedong USA had read this post and contacted the Australia Distributor, Amazing as this may seem one must be impressed with Daedong and there commitment to their customers. )</font>
There are several people at Daedong USA who keep up with this forum, and who know what the pulse of the buyers is. I think it's great that someone took the time to investigate and get involved.
I didn't want to sound scolding when you originally posted that you shift on the go, but if you really thing about how the mechanism engages, you'd realize the trying to mesh the gears while moving can only work with synchronizers. Cast steel shatters, not bends by its very nature. A good reason for changing that. If you were to take a sledge hammer to a cast bathtub for instance, it would simply shatter with every blow. When it first breaks, one would see a shinier area at the break. As for the lack of a broken piece, I don't know, but it must have been able to get out somehow?
Glad to hear you're back in operation. I'm even more careful about not engaging while moving than before this happened to you. Thanks for posting. John
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever
  • Thread Starter
#4  
John,

You have missed the issue, what went wrong was not the drive mechanism but the shaft or lever that facilitates the engagement. There was nothing wrong with the drive train.

Also cast steel does not shatter like cast iron it will bend and burr, twist and flex before it will break unless it is metal Fatigued, which in this case should not be as the tractor is only 3yrs old.
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You have missed the issue, what went wrong was not the drive mechanism but the shaft or lever that facilitates the engagement. There was nothing wrong with the drive train.
)</font>
Yeah, I think I must have been on some other plane when I read this one. I can't imagine what happened to the shaft unless, as you said, there was metal fatigue, maybe from the manufacturing. I'm not really clear exactly where it broke, but I'm assuming it was not the lever you put your hand on, but further down where it connects with gearing? I haven't really even looked mine over to know what that part looks like actually. Sorry for the confusion. John
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #6  
<font color="blue">I understand that someone at Daedong USA had read this post and contacted the Australia Distributor, Amazing as this may seem one must be impressed with Daedong and there commitment to their customers. </font>

There is a saying, "What comes around goes around."

What comes around (this side of the world),
goes around (to the other side of the world). /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

That is good to know. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #7  
"I didn't want to sound scolding when you originally posted that you shift on the go, but if you really thing about how the mechanism engages, you'd realize the trying to mesh the gears while moving can only work with synchronizers"

No offense but,syncronizers are only needed when the gears are spining at different speeds ie the transmission.
Since your only connecting front drive to rear drive everything is equal......Mike
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #8  
No offense is taken, but I have to disagree. Gear is maybe not the right word, but when you engage the 4WD, you're engaging something into something that is moving, the front wheels. I don't exactly know how this is accomplished as I've only had 2WD in the past, but I do know that if the tractor is moving and you take something that isn't moving and shove it into a moving object, something has to give. Does that sound reasonable? John
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever
  • Thread Starter
#9  
John,

You obviously do not understand the concept how this works

Both parts are working when you are on the move, one part is driven from the rear wheels which is powered from the engine the other part is driven from the front wheels that are rotating on the ground. For sure there is a slight difference in their speed due to the gear ratio between the front and the back. Additionally if your rear wheels are spinning there is going to be a difference. But if you are traveling in a straight line not accelerating their speed should be almost identical
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( John,

You obviously do not understand the concept how this works

)</font> Well, since I said </font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't exactly know how this is accomplished as I've only had 2WD in the past, )</font> I guess you're right, it's obvious. Either way, I can see opportunity for breakage/excessive wear under the circumstances. John
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #11  
It is probably similar to the transmission gears where a finger(s) push a gear along a splined shaft to engage another gear. If these are not lined up or syncromeshed, then when you push and they don't line up, they just jam against each other and if you push hard enough the finger will break or bend or whatever. Voila, something gives. If you can get the front wheels to engage, this is why some posters here mention that you just have to lift the front wheels off the ground and put it in. This will take the pressure off the front gear train usually allowing the gears to line up. Another way that might help would be to just roll the steering wheel back and forth. Hope this may explain how it relates to the problem.
My tractor is never on the pavement so I very rarely take it out of 4wd. If I do I usually find that I did at the very worst time. Your sittng there spinning and it takes me a couple of seconds to realize the front wheels aren't turning. Sometimes it too late, other times you can get out. As far as hurting the tranny, I don't think I did as I just sold my old B7200 of 18 years and it was still running fine, although it only had 900+ hours on it. Hope this makes for some good reading.

Steve
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever
  • Thread Starter
#12  
<font color="blue">You have missed the issue, what went wrong was not the drive mechanism but the shaft or lever that facilitates the engagement. There was nothing wrong with the drive train. </font>


The lever that is faulty, broken, worn or what ever does not drive, in any sense it simply moves a slide up and down a shaft when you push or pull on the lever. See Attachment, The area in question is indicated by the red arrow
 

Attachments

  • 541490-dk50 fwd.jpg
    541490-dk50 fwd.jpg
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   / Retract my views on FWD lever #13  
Sorry, I was only refering to where the resistance may have been coming from.

Steve
 
   / Retract my views on FWD lever #14  
"Does that sound reasonable? John"

John,It sounds reasonable but,I draw my experience on a 77 GMC 4x4 that I bought new.It was similar to a tractor because it was a straight gear,no frills drive train.It clearly stated in the manual(unlike Kioti's) that shifting in/out of 4wd could be done on the fly WO using the clutch except for low range(for obvious reasons).I still have that engine/drivetrain and use it off road,I've never had any of it apart except for a clutch.
So I guess that's why I'm an advocate of clutchless shifting on the fly......Mike
 

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