Retaining wall block question...)

   / Retaining wall block question...) #1  

kjonfc

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2014
Messages
40
Location
Washington, MO
Tractor
IH 300, Ford 8N, LS G3038
I have a retaining wall that is 3 2' tiers and was constructed sometime long before I bought this house. This wall was built from 6x6 timbers and is crumbling now and has to be replaced ASAP. I have looked at many different brands/types of retaining wall block and I just can't afford it. Materials alone would be somewhere in the $20k neighborhood (the wall is fairly long). I was looking at some of these huge interlocking blocks similar to what I've seen by the sides of highways and places like that. I'm wondering if anyone here has any experience with these. I have a LS g3038 with 1900lbs of lifting capacity so would I be able to lift one of these into place. I've seen some on websites that say they weigh around 1300 lbs. Any experience/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #2  
You can probably find these in your area. Some are on CL here every week or two. Almost always 2x2xdifferent lengths, interlocking. Some with square corners, some with beveled corners.

Used Concrete retaining blocks 2x2x6

Used Concrete retaining blocks 2x2x6 U haul $50.00 each, while supplies last.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #3  
I have had retaining walls built on several developments I have worked on. In doing this owners have wanted different options priced. Even though the larger block requires less backfill and geogrid they are more expensive than smaller block wall construction. We have not been able to figure out why, but guess the manufactures are keeping the prices high because they can. You may be able to source a bigger block from a local concrete plant. Around here some pour blocks with extra concrete. They are not as pretty but may work for you.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #4  
Without pics this is shooting in the dark.

Could you replace the retaining walls with pinned down geotextile material, mulch, and plantings? You would probably plant something either way, so the plant cost is roughly a wash.

Something like this stuff: ArmorMax - Home

I've never priced it but it ought to be cheaper than blocks I think. Nice looking retaining wall blocks do get expensive in a hurry.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #5  
menards, homedepot, lowes, and even local lumber mills. should have 6x6, to 4x6 ties. you most likely will need to order them. there not that bad to install. easier to install in my opinion than blocks.


there is a technique of rebar driving it into ground. and then stabbing full bags of concrete over the rebar. (paper, plastic and all of the concrete bag) just stabbed over rebar and placed down. after some time (concrete hardens) within the bags, and the paper/plastic can be torn away. it may not look pretty but *shrugs*
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #6  
My neighbor has built a retaining wall 25 feet high using these crazy blocks he got from the local concrete company. They have these forms, and when the truck return they dump the remaining concrete into these forms.

It is exactly like this

Cranesville Block Company Inc. - Barrier Block Quote Request

He got them for super duper cheap. Downside is you need a big crane to move them around.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #7  
My neighbor has built a retaining wall 25 feet high using these crazy blocks he got from the local concrete company. They have these forms, and when the truck return they dump the remaining concrete into these forms.

It is exactly like this

Cranesville Block Company Inc. - Barrier Block Quote Request

He got them for super duper cheap. Downside is you need a big crane to move them around.
Those look great, 6 foot long x 2 x 2 and only weigh 3,500 lbs. And I've a relative with a big John Deere (about 100 HP) that should be able to lift them.

I'm in a similar situation, needing to replace about 80' of RR ties, up about 10' of slope.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #8  
Have you priced putting in a 4" thick solid poured concrete wall. It would be stronger than a block wall and take less concrete. It would need some rebar though and likely a concrete pumper truck to place it. If the dirt is stabile enough to make a vertical cut, you could use dirt for the back form and only have to form one side. You could put in some auger type earth anchors to help hold the wall and forms when placing the concrete.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...)
  • Thread Starter
#9  
My neighbor has built a retaining wall 25 feet high using these crazy blocks he got from the local concrete company. They have these forms, and when the truck return they dump the remaining concrete into these forms.

It is exactly like this

Cranesville Block Company Inc. - Barrier Block Quote Request

He got them for super duper cheap. Downside is you need a big crane to move them around.


That would be exactly what I'm looking if I could find them around 2x4 since I don't have the lifting capacity. I've looked at pouring the wall and with the drainage system, rebar, forms, pumping the concrete, etc. it'll be less expensive to do block of some kind (and that's not even taking into account the almost certain damage to my asphalt driveway). I've looked at doing timbers/RR ties again too and that gets vetoed because of looks and durability. If I can move big blocks like those with my tractor, I can have them dropped at the street and I could move and place them. I've been thinking of doing about 1/2 the wall, then sloping the rest and doing a geo-mat of some kind and using mulch and shrubs or something like that. right now it's just UGLY. I'll take and upload some pics this evening when I get home.
 
   / Retaining wall block question...) #10  
talk to a couple of cement truck drivers ... ask if they will dump their " unused extra" at your place for a "fee" ... then build a couple of forms ... 2" x 2' x ? ' ... with open tops and bottom , and one end that unclips ( 3 fixed sides, one attaches ) so you can release the poured blocks without breaking the form ....

you can also put plastic pipes in the forms to accept rebar later to act as alignment/ locking pins .... ( with a bit of measuring of course )

any excess cement ( not enough to make a full block ) can make smaller pavers or just spread as a continuing pad ....
 

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