Replacing hub on bushog blade carrier

[MESSMAKER]

I noticed that my cutter was not working properly so I took the blade carrier off and took a look. All the splines on the carrier were worn. I looked up a new carrier and noticed that the hub is replaceable. They say weld in. I am guessing you grind off the weld and press it out. Anyone done it or seen it done?

 

[Gary Fowler]

The mowers I have been into, the hub fits onto the gear box and is hold on by a single bolt. Likely your bolt got loose which let the hub wobble ( it is a tapered shaft).
Anyway the hub bolts on to the gear box and then a T bar is welded to the bottom to which the blades and stump jumper are attached. You would start by removing the blades then take out the center bolt holding the stump jumper on. You will have to pull straight to get it off the tapered shaft which might take some effort if it has never been off. I start by prying a bit in a circular direction then using my hands try to pull it straight back and off. Once you get it off, you will see how the hub is fastened to the stump jumper.

I fixed one that was broken on my BIL 4 footer. It was a 1" thick flat bar welded to the hub. It took a lot of welding. I would suggest that you buy the complete hub with T bar attached

 

[MESSMAKER]

The mowers I have been into, the hub fits onto the gear box and is hold on by a single bolt. Likely your bolt got loose which let the hub wobble ( it is a tapered shaft).
Anyway the hub bolts on to the gear box and then a T bar is welded to the bottom to which the blades and stump jumper are attached. You would start by removing the blades then take out the center bolt holding the stump jumper on. You will have to pull straight to get it off the tapered shaft which might take some effort if it has never been off. I start by prying a bit in a circular direction then using my hands try to pull it straight back and off. Once you get it off, you will see how the hub is fastened to the stump jumper.

I fixed one that was broken on my BIL 4 footer. It was a 1" thick flat bar welded to the hub. It took a lot of welding. I would suggest that you buy the complete hub with T bar attached

I don't have a pan type stump jumper but a steel ramp welded both in front an behind the blade carrier, which is basically a manhole cover with 3 holes in it. Two for the blades and a center hole where the hub is mounted. I don,t have the t- bar on mine.

 

[Gary Fowler]

It is going to be the same thing as the T bar. You have to remove the blades, then remove the center bolt that holds the round plate to the gear box. You could then see how the hub is attached. You would have to have a cutting torch or plasma rig to remove the old hub. It needs a full penetration weld for optimum strength. I beveled the T bar from both sides and welded it solidly to the hub. You could do the same with the "manhole cover". The trick would be in keeping the hub completely square to the plate so it doesn't wobble and vibrate.

ONE thing you might try is to put a washer or two on the center bolt and see if you can draw the old hub up tight to the gear box. Chances are that if it hasn't worn too badly, you may be able to just force it up on to the tapered gear box shaft so that it is tight.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Looking at a picture of the replacement hub, It looks to be tapered. If i can get it out. I can just press in a new one and it should be centered. I think the washer idea would work for the short term, but I only have about a 1/2 inch ring of spline left. I doubt that would handle the torque for very long.