Replacing/Fixing barn doors

   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #1  

l8_apexer

New member
Joined
Sep 4, 2008
Messages
10
Location
Western PA
Tractor
John Deere 4300
I have 4 barns on our property. 6 of the doors need to be replaced--- due to wood rot, boards falling apart, insect damage. Have scoured the internet and have little to no information on how to replace the doors.

Appears that the only solution is to make new doors myself-- again- little information has turned up in the search.

The doors are sliding, hung from the top and have a track they "slide" (ha!) in. Does anyone have suggestions on where to find information on making new doors? I can't find a place to buy sheets of metal siding to use to make the doors. I've found a few places that sell the hardware-- will I have to plan on replacing the tracks at the same time?


Thanks. Any suggestions welcomed:D
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #2  
The way I go about making barn doors is relatively simple (or else I couldn't do it!).

I measure the opening that I want to cover, and decide if I'm gonna use one or two doors. I usually use big swinging doors, but we've not a few sliding as well. The door construction is essentially the same, but the sliding doors will be a few inches wide for a given opening because you probably want an overlap on the side.

Example: The opening for the barn is 10' wide x 10' tall. For swinging doors, I would make a set of doors frames 4'-10" wide x 9'-10" tall (you will have a space in the middle, but you can cover it with an overlap of metal).

Anyway, decide how big you want the door. I usually use 2 x 4s for the frame (although for a really big sliding door, we have used 2 x 6s. Then I cut the outside frame members with 45 degree cuts on each end (basically, make a mitered frame). Lay them all down on a flat surface and put a screw through the ends. Take a few minutes, measure the diagonals, and square the frame. Then I cut a board to bisect the big rectangle, and make to small ones (put it equal distance from each inside end). Toe-screw it to the outside frame.

After all that, I cut diagonal braces to run from what will be the inside bottom and inside top corners of the door to the middle of the middle (that really doesn't seem to make sense, does it). Anyway, you will probably have to cut and recut and test fit some times.

After all that, you should have a frame laying down that looks like a digital "8" or possibly upper case "B" with half an "x". (Maybe I should just make a drawing and post it). After checking for square again, I put metal mending plates on each junction of wood. I use the kind that have a bunch of holes and just put 1" drywall screws through the, at least 3 per board. This will be the inside of the door.

After that, you have built a braced frame. You can now stand it up in the opening. I usually use cut off chunks of wood and brace it up how I want it and then attach the hinges. If it is a hanging door, you will need to attach the roller hangers to the top of the door (usually have to drill through the top member) and then slide it in the track.

Finally, after all that, I hang the metal on the door. On sets of swinging doors, I start in the middle and make sure that the ribs of the metal covering from each door will overlap in the middle, and cut the rest of the metal to fit.

Wow - that looks really convoluted. It's really not that difficult. If I get a chance, I'll post a sketch of what I'm talking about it should be a lot clearer.

Good luck. Take care.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #3  
l8_apexer, like rtimgray said, it isn't all that difficult. It would help if you would provide a couple of pictures showing what you are up against. Include a few detail pictures showing the hangers and other hardware.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #4  
Here's a pic of some swinging doors I made. They are very lightweight, and I was concerned that I might not have enough diagonal bracing (wound up using the plywood corner braces) but so far they are holding up fine.

I had a hard time finding a distributor of metal barn siding in my area too, but the salesman at the local Tractor Supply steered me in the right direction.
 

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   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #5  
My barn doors are 2 sheets of 4x8 sheets of plywood. Outside sheet is T1-11 wide groove. They are horse kick proof.

My shed doors are made up of single sheets of 4x12 T1-11 with an inner 2x4 framework. Easy to make, replace and maintain. Keep them 1/2 inch off the ground and use a weather strip to keep out the snow.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #6  
I have co worked that built sliding doors for a shop. They are interior doors. He used livestock door hardware. The doors were framed, drywall and insulated, real heavy. They were quite nice though! If your looking for the hardware may want to try a metal building contractor.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #7  
What Runner posted is pretty much how I make them with the exception of the diagonal bracing. I bet that the plywood gussets that he put on them make up for the braces - so the door is just as strong, but probably lighter and cheaper (I like light doors). Thanks for posting the picture.

Take care.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #8  
Yes, the plywood helps stiffen them up a lot. The metal siding helps a lot too, once all the screws are in place.
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #9  
Can't you just copy the ones you are replacing?
 
   / Replacing/Fixing barn doors #10  
I too am wanting to enclose my barn, and thanks for posting some pictures, the more pics the more confident I feel that I can tackle making the doors for this project. The thing I am having trouble with is finding the right king of hinges, could yall post some pics of the hinges you guys used or describe them in detail......... Thank you so much :D
 

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