Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch

   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #1  

MikePA

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Apr 25, 2001
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12,302
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PA
Tractor
Had TC25D, now JD X310
Any tips for how to do this safely when working alone, both removing the old one and installing the new one?
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #2  
Any tips for how to do this safely when working alone, both removing the old one and installing the new one?

On what????
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #3  
Assuming this is the style where you have to mount/dismount the entire hitch in one piece, attach it to a transmission jack. If you don't have one, a regular floor jack with a random assortment of clamps, straps and boards can function the same way. That way you're only working on the bolts and not trying to support the hitch weight at the same time.

-rus-
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#4  
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #5  
I do lots of hitch's, maybe 10 per year. What I did was take a 2x2 piece of steel or you could use a ball mount, and welded on a 3/4" diameter bolt. I then take the jack pad off my floor jack, slide the bolt though the hole, and hand tighten a washer and nut. Then put the hitch on the bar and jack it up into place.

Chris
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #6  
Good question! :)

My pickup truck and the hitch is the one piece kind that has 4 bolts on each side.

Well, if it is a simple pickem-truck bolt on then any jack, straps around the frame etc will work.

I changed mine with an air impact by laying on the creeper with my knees holding the hitch up tight while I pulled the last two bolts.

Reversed to install.

Diamonds idea would be real slick if you do a lot of them:thumbsup:
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #7  
Well, if it is a simple pickem-truck bolt on then any jack, straps around the frame etc will work.

I changed mine with an air impact by laying on the creeper with my knees holding the hitch up tight while I pulled the last two bolts.

Reversed to install.

Diamonds idea would be real slick if you do a lot of them:thumbsup:

Same here. Bought mine to fit my truck and bolted it on. Used the "hold it up with your knees/ contorsionist(sp?) method"!:laughing: If I put on 10 or more per year as Chris does I'd incorporate his handy dandy floor jack method.:thumbsup:
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #8  
Well, if it is a simple pickem-truck bolt on then any jack, straps around the frame etc will work.

I changed mine with an air impact by laying on the creeper with my knees holding the hitch up tight while I pulled the last two bolts.

Reversed to install.

Diamonds idea would be real slick if you do a lot of them:thumbsup:

I have done them the way you are talking about a few times and for Class III hitches its ok but when you get into Class V hitches like the Titan they weigh about 2 to 3 times more.

Chris
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I have done them the way you are talking about a few times and for Class III hitches its ok but when you get into Class V hitches like the Titan they weigh about 2 to 3 times more.

The shipping weight on this one was 61 pounds. Straps and knees should work. :D
 
   / Replacing Existing Receiver Hitch #10  
I did my Class V Titan the contortionists way and a little help from my wife. Worked OK for a one time deal. Would have been way easier but one bolt wouldn't line up on the Titan so I fought it up and down several times while I reamed out that one hole.
If I had it to do again I would have had my hitch custom made. The Titan is a little heavier but not really all that much when you get right down to it from the factory unit. Factory hitch was constructed identical to the Titan with one size down on tubing but same size flat stock on ends. Fab shop said they would have doubled plate size, increased tube wall thickness, and and picked up the side on the frame instead of the bottom. All for the same price I paid. I would have had to paint it though.
 

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