Rear Blade Replacement Cutting Edge

[djradz]

I have a very old 6' International (commercial/industrial) rear 3-pt blade in need of a new cutting edge. The existing edge is a single (cannot be flipped) as the holes are offset significanlty toward the top edge of the cutting edge and the entire piece sits in sort of a detent in the moldboard so a flippable/reversable edge would not appear to be useable.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a supplier. I've found one place, Atlantic Broom, that appears to take orders for custom-fit cutting edges, but I'm wondering if there are others out there that I don't know of.

 

[MMagis]

Couldn't a metal shop make one for a reasonable cost? If not, how about welding on a new edge? Just thinking out loud.

 

[Egon]

how about welding on a new edge?

That sounds like a good idea.:thumbsup:

 

[sal64]

i use a piece of uhmw plastic cost about 150. then i transfer the holes from plow then drill it.

 

[Chilly807]

If the dealer can't supply a cutting edge, any metal supply house should be able to sell you the proper material. Call and check if they can test the old blade to see what it is. I'm guessing it will be something like 4140 steel, fairly tough yet not overly hard.

You probably want about 35-40 Rockwell hardness, in a softer tool steel.

If you tell them what you want it for, they should be able to advise you on what they have that will work. Then it's just a matter of getting it cut to the right size and drilling some holes. It's going to be cheaper than going back to the dealer, most of the time anyway.

Sean

 

[Jay4200]

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a supplier. I've found one place, Atlantic Broom, that appears to take orders for custom-fit cutting edges, but I'm wondering if there are others out there that I don't know of.

I made a cutting edge for my FEL out of an old snowplow edge that I got from the town for free. They generally just throw them away and usually have a few kicking around the town barn. They are worn a little curved, but are 9' long and I only needed 5 1/2 feet, so I simply cut off the ends and got an edge that is w/in 1/4" of being straight, if not better - which is close enough for me.

In your case, I'd weld the new DIY edge right to your old edge (7018 rod) so you can just unbolt the thing in case you want to change it again later.

I also got a big, heavy 7' grading blade edge at the local metal scrapyard - I don't know what it came off of, but it's nice and straight, weighs a good 150 pounds, and still has some paint on it. They had it in their drop off dumpster when I was scrapping a cast iron boiler exchanger. I just had to ask for it, and they gave it to me for free.

JayC

 

[djradz]

That sounds like a good idea.:thumbsup:

I'm concerned about the hardness with welding on a new edge. I want it as hard or harder than the existing one. Plus, for about the last foot on each side, it is worn more, probably something like 3/4" to 1", where in the middle, maybe only 1/4" to 1/2". That would seem like a lot to build up, but I've never done so so don't really know.

 

[MMagis]

Actually, I didn't mean to build up the old with weld. I meant to weld on a new piece of plate over top of the old edge. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you have a hardened steel cutting blade, I wouldnt recommend welding on it unless you plan to heat treat it afterward. It would likely be very brittle and the first time you hit something with it, it would probable snap off the weld. Just get yourself a new bolt on blade and fix it right. As said many of the county road grader blade can be used for this and you can get them free in most places.

 

[Egon]

I'm concerned about the hardness with welding on a new edge. I want it as hard or harder than the existing one. Plus, for about the last foot on each side, it is worn more, probably something like 3/4" to 1", where in the middle, maybe only 1/4" to 1/2". That would seem like a lot to build up, but I've never done so so don't really know.

Don't worry about welding it on. That is a very common practice. You could cut the old edge off and then weld in the new one.:thumbsup:

If you have a hardened steel cutting blade, I wouldnt recommend welding on it unless you plan to heat treat it afterward. It would likely be very brittle and the first time you hit something with it, it would probable snap off the weld. Just get yourself a new bolt on blade and fix it right. As said many of the county road grader blade can be used for this and you can get them free in most places.

Welding on the cutting edge hasn't caused any problems the two times I have had it done.:thumbsup:

Cutting edges come in weld on type so That is what you should be able to do!:thumbsup:

 

[chappo2011]

have you looked at an old cat grader edge as the holes are off center an thay give them away when worn down

 

[some zilch]

If you have a hardened steel cutting blade, I wouldnt recommend welding on it unless you plan to heat treat it afterward. It would likely be very brittle and the first time you hit something with it, it would probable snap off the weld. Just get yourself a new bolt on blade and fix it right. As said many of the county road grader blade can be used for this and you can get them free in most places.

i weld cutting edges all the time; at work, and at home. i have never had a brittleness problem, nor had one break back off

 

[Chilly807]

Most of that kind of steel is alloyed for toughness, not so much hardness. The pieces I made my post hole auger cutting edges from were tool steel, the natural hardness was around 29 Rockwell, when hardened they came up to just under 45 Rockwell. That was heating and quenching in oil, by folk that do it for a living.

I'd say if you welded a new edge in place on the old one, if it would fit half decently, as long as you didn't quench the hot metal you'd be fine as it would tend to soften the welded area if anything.

There's one way to find out for sure, although I'd be tempted to make the new piece fit in place of the old cutting edge if at all possible.

I'll be doing the same thing in a few years myself, my rear blade is getting worn down a bit on the second cutting edge surface (mine IS reversible). I'm starting to look now for a freebie piece of grader blade for that occasion.

Sean