Removing the MMM on a BX2660

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Did my 50 hour service on my BX2660 this week. I removed the MMM during the 50 hour service. I took pictures of most of the steps. I see where some people claim to be able to remove and replace the MMM in under 60 seconds and never get dirty or break out a sweat. I didn't have it that easy but it isn't really that complicated.
I guess the filters and fluids can be drained with the deck still on the tractor but it's alot easier with the deck removed plus with the deck removed all of the fittings can be easily greased, the fluid in the deck gears can be checked and changed and the blades checked, sharpened and/or replaced easily.
First, raise the deck off of the ground, turn the wheels on the deck to roll side ways instead of backwards and forward.
Lower deck to lowest setting. Slide your hand down the drive shaft toward the back. Feel the round ring at the back end of the drive shaft, pull the round ring forward. This will disengage the locked driveshaft from the mid PTO and let it drop down.
In the front there is a small lever that pulls toward you, twists and locks into place. See Picture. On the side you'll see a good sized lever. Pull the lever down which will disengage the front of the deck.
On each side of the deck there is a lever (see pictures) that is to be pulled toward you and it will turn and lock in a slot with the pin sticking up on it. Mine did not pull easily and I tapped it with a hammer to get it to move. After pulling the pins on each side and dropping the drive shaft the deck is now disconnected. Go to the front and pull the front bars out of the way.
Start tractor and raise 3ph/mid mount arms to top position.
I didn't turn my wheels so my pictures don't show the turned wheels, I will the next time and I will when I reinstall the deck. Just roll the deck out from under the tractor. Now clean off your deck and grease all fittings. I think there are 5 grease fittings on the deck. One over each blade, one centered up toward the front of the deck and one centered near the middle of the deck. There is one grease fitting per wheel. Also check your blades while you have the deck off. I've bought an extra set of blades from Barlows for $60. I have installed the new ones on the deck and will sharpen the other set and have them ready to install the next time I have deck off.

When you reinstall deck and hook drive shaft back. Make sure the lock ring clips back into locked position. You'll feel it lock back into place, if it doesn't it isn't. Pull hard on drive shaft to make sure it's locked back. I didn't one time long ago and it came loose and busted my oil filter. Reverse the procedure to reinstall deck.

 

[RTII]

Thanks JT for this and the fluid change post, you made it sound easy. I will most likely be doing my 50 hr service my next trip home so I've printed out your walkthrough as a guide.

Reily

 

[radioman]

JT, First of all I see you used the oem lock rings to hold it. If you remove those and use hairpin clips, it makes the work to turn of wheels 90 degrees for easy rolling nice and simple. No sweat! Also I use a peice of tiedown strap to pull the deck out so no bending while pulling/pushing either.

second there are 12 zerks total, not 5 points you mentioned
Mower grease points
1. Universal joint (2)
2. 3 spindle shafts (3)
3. Belt tension pulley (1)
4. Belt tension pivot (1)
5. Balance shaft (1)
6. 4 anti scalp wheels (4)
Total of 12 grease zerks for mower

Before reinstalling the MMM shaft, I usually take the grease that oozes out from greasing and apply on the collar slide and locking balls. It makes it soooo much nicer to feel it click in place.

 

[TripleR]

Something I do before doing any work on my deck is to pull the covers and crank up my 170 mph leaf blower and clean it off; doesn't make it easier, just a little cleaner.

 

[Tom_H]

The mid-PTO gets easier to couple with time as it breaks in. It helps to keep both parts well lubed with clean grease.
I built a dolly for my RCK60B-22BX as follows: Lay MMM on piece of 1/2" or so plywood. Trace/scribe exact silhouette of skirt on plywood. Cut out with jigsaw. Find points where blade bolts are centered and from that center, measure a 4" radius outward. Cut circular holes around center point. (This prevents weight from sitting on the bolt heads, which prevents free turning of blades.) Along front edge of plywood, using trim material, built up a lip about 1/2" high (this takes all weight off of blade tips). Place 16 two inch casters around bottom perimeter of plywood. The holes and front lip are important because the ability of the blades to turn means the PTO shaft can also rotate when time to couple.

The dolly allows me not to have to rotate the MMM wheels. (Oh I hated the wasted time doing that!) After raising the uncoupled lift arms, I just push the whole thing out with my foot. Crawling under the tractor to uncouple the remaining half of the drive shaft is much easier than uncoupling it first.

When re-attaching the MMM, the dolly allows me to easily angle the deck for far much more elbow room while coupling the PTO. When the thing doesn't want to mate, force is not the answer; finesse is. If it doesn't want to go on, don't push harder. Instead, make very slight and gentle rocking and turning movements in all directions, all the while very gently pushing forward. When the alignment is correct, the pieces will slide easily into place. (Don't forget that lube makes a huge difference, however.) After the PTO is coupled, the dolly allows easy realignment with the lift arms.

I have several longer posts re. both the dolly and coupling techniques back in the archives. There are several pics in one of those threads. I will see if I can pull up links to them.

O.K. Hope this works; these should be links to those pics:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0984-mmm-3-wheel-dolly-casters-picture-10.pdf

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...0984-mmm-3-wheel-dolly-casters-picture-17.pdf

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT, First of all I see you used the oem lock rings to hold it. If you remove those and use hairpin clips, it makes the work to turn of wheels 90 degrees for easy rolling nice and simple. No sweat! Also I use a peice of tiedown strap to pull the deck out so no bending while pulling/pushing either.

second there are 12 zerks total, not 5 points you mentioned
Mower grease points
1. Universal joint (2)
2. 3 spindle shafts (3)
3. Belt tension pulley (1)
4. Belt tension pivot (1)
5. Balance shaft (1)
6. 4 anti scalp wheels (4)
Total of 12 grease zerks for mower

Before reinstalling the MMM shaft, I usually take the grease that oozes out from greasing and apply on the collar slide and locking balls. It makes it soooo much nicer to feel it click in place.

I've bought a box of different sizes of clips and a box of different sizes of D rings so I do plan to replace the OEM rings with the clips. I guess I wasn't giving greasing directions as well as I should have. I greased all but one that you mentioned and I'll have to check which one that I missed before I reinstall. I think it was the tension pulley or pivot. I think I mentioned one toward the front, one near the middle, 3 blades and 4 wheels, I guess I forgot to mention the drive shaft and the one other one that I missed. Thanks.

 

[radioman]

tom H - its a great idea.. but those little wheels would get stuck on my lawn. Would have to do it right on the driveway-- which is rare for me to do.

 

[BigD23]

Now I wanna go remove my MMM...Thanks for the helpful info.

Don

 

[oldballs]

:thumbsup: Thanks, Gents. That was a lot of work for you guys to post such info and pictures. It's about time to remount that MMM.....if it ever quits snowing/raining.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Mines still in the same location, leaned up against the retaining wall. Waiting on that member to post his way of doing reinstall that some way makes it do it itself. These are old blades and I have replaced them. Grass is growing so I'll have to put it back on in a day or two.