I would like to know if any of you can tell me what I need to do to remove the power steering cylinder on a john deere 6310 with a front drive axle. I have the big manual and parts book and have been successful at repairing everything that has come up to date, but I now have a leak in the cylinder on that front drive axle. Unfortunately the JD manual says there is a separate manual for the front drive axle and the power steering is part of that manual, which by the way I haven't found on the internet, even on the JD site. Sounds like it ought to be simple enough, but I haven't figured out how to get the cylinder out of the housing. I suspect most if not all of the larger JD front drive axles from 2000 or so on have the same system. If any of you know what I need to do to get it off or can route me to a manual I would appreciate it.
Removal of the power steering cylinder on a john deere 6310 with a front drive axle
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Tx Jim
New Member
Zebrafive
Super Member
TM4574 does not have info on MFWD axle.
I think you are correct about nut key #1 (or 2 & 3)
/ Removal of the power steering cylinder on a john deere 6310 with a front drive axle
#4
Thanks for the replies. I have the 4574 manual but it refers to the front drive axle manual and does not provide any other help. The parts diagram shows the breakout as you have posted. I guess the process is to remove both tie rod ends, break the nut #1 on diagram, and remove the cylinder on the left side (facing tractor). what it looks like when you look at the tractor is that there is some type nut on the opposite end as well. However, I have gotten into trouble more than once by assuming too much, so I like to know the recommended process before I mess up something. Never-the-less, I am going to pull it off and see what happens. Thanks for the help.
/ Removal of the power steering cylinder on a john deere 6310 with a front drive axle
#5
I wanted to update this in case anyone else has the same problem I did. There is one nut that holds the cylinder in the front axle case. There are two Teflon backed O-rings on the outside of the cylinder that hold the hydraulic oil under pressure. the cylinder slips inside the case. There is one standard hose fitting on the back of the cylinder and one hose fitting on the case self not attached to the cylinder. When the cylinder is slipped into the case. the O-rings generate an area about two inches wide inside the case that is pressurized when the is activated in the left hand turn. The cylinder is held in place by that one large nut. **** of a set up and one I had not seen before. In my opinion a bad design, but it is what it is. I fought that nut for two week's. I even put a pipe wrench on it and put a hydraulic spreader between it and the frame and figured that would break it loose. It didn't, all it did was succeed in turning the whole cylinder in the case. Finally wound up cutting the nut off. You have to be careful about that since half the nut is under part of the case the cylinder rides in. Screw up the case and you have major costs. Took a fine cutting disk on a Dremel tool and cut two slits down almost to the threads on the nut. I could only cut a little over half half way across because of the case. I then used a small drill bit to cut most of the way through the uncut side of the nut under the case, being careful not to get into the threads or smooth end of the case that the nut nestles into. The space created by the slits loosened the nut enough to get it off fairly easily with the pipe wrench. Probably should have cut it off immediately, but a new nut was $47 and I was determined to save the money. Instead I wasted a lot of time and effort. A lesson I won't soon forget. Hope this helps the next guy that has to fight on of these.
Zebrafive
Super Member
Thanks for the update. I would have been reluctant to cut the nut too, but time is $$$$$
mfreund
Veteran Member
That does seem like a poor design. The only thing I can offer is the designer wanted to keep it from getting hit. I have broken the hydraulic steering cylinder on my 4310. I dropped off the edge of a block wall in a snowstorm and snapped the end off the chrome rod. Had to buy a new cylinder. I would have gladly paid $47 for a new nut!