Mowing rear finish mower

twinstackram · Jun 7, 2005

I have a IH 234,my question is this? I have a woods rear finish mower,my other mowers were belly mowers so I'm trying to get the hang of the mower being in the rear learning the differencefrom belly to rear.
O.K. my question? when I'm mowing and I go up an incline when the tractor tops the incline the rear mower starts to go up also which leaves that grass uncut or it just cuts the very top of the grass,o.k. now can I leave my hydraulic lever pushed down and by doing so it will lower with the ground and then when it gets on level ground be all right or will this mess my hydraulics??

RoyJackson · Jun 7, 2005

You need to leave your top link as long as possible. Even then, if the crest of the hill is abrupt, the rear of the mower may lift.
Definitely leave your 3PH in the lowered position. It'll float, which is what you want.

Now, the downside of extending the upper link is if the transition from going down slope to level ground is abrupt, the upper link or upper mounting bracket (on the mower) may hit your PTO shaft.

Mine does that at one area. I also have hill crests that lift the rear mower even with an extended top link. To eliminate this, I'll unhook the top links in some areas I mow.

djradz · Jun 7, 2005

What holds the front of your mower up. If it's only the lower tractor arms, extending the top link will only help a little. What you really need is a very flexible top link connection and "check chains" if you don't have wheels on the front of the deck. See attached pic.

twinstackram · Jun 7, 2005

yes that is the set up that I have no wheels up front just the chains,the book says to leave a 3/4 " gap on the top link ,to let it give a little when you back the tractor up and the mower goes up an incline and the tractor does not go up with it,could I put a chain in place of the top link or could this be dangerous for reason?I wasn't sure about leaving the hydraulic lever in the down position,I didn't know if that would affect the hydraulic pump or not.

djradz · Jun 7, 2005

It would be nice if the top link connection flexed more, more like my brush hog, but I've got what I've got. As it is, the end of the link has slightly dented in the top brace of the mower, but ever so slightly and it gives it a little longer flex path.

Some folks have removed the top link and substitued chain, or a link made of part steel stock and chain. It might be worth a try. I'm not as comfortable doing it on my RFM though because it already has a higher center of gravity than my brush hog. Think of it this way though. Many people still use "trailer-type" implements, pulled off a draw bar, and so a chain top link would still offer more control than that.

I don't think there should be any problem with putting the arms all the way down, unless you have down pressure, which most CUTs don't. I've run with the check chain setup on my old Satoh 650G, my Ford 1720 and now my TC40, with no problems. Unless you hear a relief valve lifting, which you shouldn't, I wouldn't worry about it.