Rear Blade Rear blade selection and duty rating

[HuskerInVA]

I've pretty much decided to get an 84" rear blade with tilt but I've been looking at the different duty levels.

How heavy of a blade should I get? I know a lot depends on what I need to do. Primary function is to clearing snow and maintaining 1/4 mile long gravel driveway. If I go heavier duty I can think of tasks from grading, ditch maintenance, etc.. that I could tackle without destroying the blade.

As long as you keep the width to the size you need, can you go too heavy duty? Keeping within the limits of tractor of course.

 

[Glenn9643]

I always buy at least as HD as I can afford, and exceed that at times. An implement like a back blade or box blade can be stressed severely when you hang into something that won't give with one side. It's generally cheaper to buy one that will hold up rather than having to rebuild or buy replacements.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with the other poster.

A BB never hurts to be extra beefy. If i had a rear blade that was 100% snow duty.. i might go light / medium duty.. but it it does anything else.. heavier is better.. especialy int he swivel / pin lock area.

Soundguy

 

[Egon]

Maybe the backblade should be rated to the tractor??

Sorta a matter of breaking the back blade or breaking the tractor if a real bad oppsii occurs.

Egon

 

[kully]

get the heaveyest blade you can get for your tractor . I used a 7 foot tuffline cat 1 on my old ford 4000. worked fine for years , then I got a new tractor kubota m4900, put blade on and hooked a 4 in stump and broke it in half never felt anything just a slight stop and it was all over.so I bought a woods rb850 the heaveyest they make no problems now!!!

 

[DavidVT]

My original 3430 came with a no name scraper blade. Very soft and twisted real bad while pushing snow in reverse.

I had the occasion to have my tractor replaced while still new and asked that the scraper blade be upgraded to something strong enough for snow plowing.

I paid the difference and all seemed good. The larger unit came and seemed to be much more robust.....

This summer I was moving some soft dirt but caught a stone while backing very very slowly. The blade twisted around in it's mount like no tomorrow...

Upon close inspection I found that there was no reinforcement along the length of the blade and that the only thing holding the 84" blade to the center where 4 small bolts. What actually bent was the small chunk of metal that was in the center of the blade that connected the blade to the frame....

I looked at a similiar brand blade on a 7810 and found that there was indeed angle iron along the entire blade and that it formed the mounting structure. A much better idea and now I wished I had done my homework here on the forum before being fooled by size alone...

Why the long post? Simple, I encourage anyone buying a scraper blade to not be impressed by it's size but rather take a look at the mounting structure and imagine what will give when the blade is caught at the far extreme end. If, for example, it is just 4 small bolts attached to a 8" plate then beware...

I gave up and for about $150 mounted an old truck snow plow on the front of my tractor using the quick connect FEL.

I know there are good scraper blades. I was just unfortunate to have bought 2 weak ones. "TUITION"

 

[Soundguy]

I also think people try to use some tols for the wrong purpose, or in a manner inconsistant with it's manufacture.

I see lots of guys making large dirt cuts and moves with grader blades as opposed to box blades... Also.. some people think that a box blade or a scrape blad on their tractor means it is a rubber tired bulldozer.. which it ain't. That goes right along with pushing material with the 3pt in reverse... Seen lots 3pt linkage damage from that 'reverse mounted bulldozer' mentality...

Soundguy

 

[DavidVT]

My short experience with pushing snow in reverse with a scraper blade behind the compact tractor seems to suggest that the smaller tractors do better with a scraper blade wide enough to cover their tracks then a larger heavier in the same class.

With more that 6' OD across my R4's and wanting to angle plow, my scraper blade was ordered at 84 inches. In retrospec I now have learned (again. TUITION) that this is just way too much to expect of the blade and (as said above) linkages for pushing in reverse...

I had watched the great success a friend had with his 7810 with scraper blade in reverse and just assumed my 3430 would have the same success. Physics got me, simple as that...

He looses traction when the blade is overloaded. Mine just bends the blade and keeps going for more....

 

[HuskerInVA]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I looked at the local dealers and wanted all to know they want way to much money for Bushhog or Woods brands.

I was originally looking at the Bushhog model 35 7' blade at my tractor dealer. I figure I always give him first shot at my business. After the advice here I don't think it would have held up. It's rated max 35hp 2wd, 30hp 4wd, 325 lbs and with my 37hp -- I didn't want to pay that much tuition. Besides the dealer wanted $600+ for this blade. I didn't even bother to ask how much the model 70 blade was.

I bought a Midwest RB40-84 from one of our favorite internet dealers and will be delivered early next week. Looks like a beast and weighs in at 540 lbs. I will be pulling NH blue behind my JD green, but heck -- I wear white socks w/ a dark suit. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I will be careful not to back push too much. Between blade vs. 3pt -- I think I'd put my money on this blade being the victor.

 

[JGibson]

Who is your internet dealer?