Really stuck - Wallenstein Gen.4 or Bro-Tek thumb?

[douce48]

I know, a lot has been talked about regarding these two thumbs - I've read most of them.

I have no interest in the previous Gen. 1-3 Wallensteins due to sliding issues. But there is something about the 'jaw' that draws me in.
> Like more grabbing area but will it twist if you grab one side of the jaw and not the whole face of the jaw?
> Any Gen.4 owners?

I hear no complaints on Bro-Tek.
> Can you grab as much material with the jaw?

I do like the jaw on the Bro-Tek being in direct line with the boom when it is being put to use - seems to be a stronger 'package' mounted that way.

Basically, with time going by since the older posts on thumbs,
> WHICH THUMB DO YOU PREFER NOW?


Thanks,
Douce

 

[mswlogo]

I owned a Gen 3 Wallenstein (with my own additional mod) and now I would get the Bro-Tek if I had to again. Wallensteins was considering my mod for Gen 4 but I'm not sure what they did. They are great people and it is a cool thumb.

But....

I finally figured out what is different between the two and why one tends to slide and the other does not.

The reason is the Bro-Tek has a very distinctive "Paw" at the very end of the thumb. The wallenstein has teeth all along the thumb (which is nice but causes a problem).

If something grabs very close to boom with the wallenstein, when you curl the bucket the force goes almost straight down the arm causing it to slide. There is so much force it starts to chew at the channel on the boom.

Where if you alway grab something at the end of the thumb "the paw" on th ebro-tek the force cocks the mount on the boom and does not slide but tends to lock it in place.

So if you always grip at the end of the wallenstain it would stay put like the bro-tek. Also if by fluke you caught something very low on the bro-tek thumb it could do the same thing but that would be much less likely to ever happen on the bro-tek and very likely on the wallenstein.

I don't think Bro-tek saw this issue in there design, I think it was a bit of luck on Bro-tek side and bit of bad luck on Wallenstein's side. I would prefer the function of the Wallenstein but that function itself is what causes the issue (gripping to close to boom).

If the wallenstein is VERY carefully welded (because it WILL really want to move a bit) it may be fine; you need some parts of the mount to float a bit when under stress (like just weld the top plate and let the sides float).

 

[Shmudda]

Go with the Bro-Tek its a much better design. I made one somewhat similar to the Bro-Tek but modified it to utilize the taper of the dipper stick so it wouldn't move or slide up when using it. It has worked out well and its like a Timex, takes a licking and keeps on ticking!

On another note, do yourself a favor and NEVER weld anything to the dipper, that could be a very costly mistake once the welds start cracking. The material is just to thin on the dipper to really weld to it properly in my opinion.

Attached is a pic of the one I made, of course with some design changes compared to the Bro-Tek. The trick is the position and location of the bolts and the installation of the thrust plate between the bolts and the dipper. The pics show it all.....

Good luck!

Craig

 

[mswlogo]

Go with the Bro-Tek its a much better design. I made one somewhat similar to the Bro-Tek but modified it to utilize the taper of the dipper stick so it wouldn't move or slide up when using it. It has worked out well and its like a Timex, takes a licking and keeps on ticking!

On another note, do yourself a favor and NEVER weld anything to the dipper, that could be a very costly mistake once the welds start cracking. The material is just to thin on the dipper to really weld to it properly in my opinion.

Attached is a pic of the one I made, of course with some design changes compared to the Bro-Tek. The trick is the position and location of the bolts and the installation of the thrust plate between the bolts and the dipper. The pics show it all.....

Good luck!

Craig

I agree it's not great to weld to dipper stick, it's very thin.

The wallenstein is designed to utilize the taper as well. But due to it's ability to grip things close to dipper stick it's enough to start crushing the dipper stick as it wedges against the taper.

 

[douce48]

mswlogo & Shmudda,

You replied with exactly what I was looking for and could not find. I was finding good info., but something was missing. Thank you.

> What's your thoughts on installing a thin piece of sheet rubber (with a soft durometer for gripping) under the thumb plate mounts?
It would possibly act as a protectant to the dipper stick and to also help with traction.

I'm glad I asked. (I figured I was going to get the, "that's been asked too many times - do a search under ..........."

Thanks again for your time,
Douce

 

[mswlogo]

Rubber gasket might work, might not, might be worse.

The forces is very very high.

If you look back at my history in what I tried and now say go with bro-tek.

 

[douce48]

Thanks mswlogo.

I will take your advice. My 'gut' was telling me Bro-Tek.
Maybe it was all those teeth of the Wallenstein - looked like a T-Rex!

I'm going to order the Bro-Tek thumb & the skid plates.

Thanks again,
Douce

 

[BX24FOR5]

I am also wanting to buy a thumb for my BX24.

Has any one ever purchased,used or seen one from Extreme Metal Products as listed on E- Bay?

If so, how did it work?

Thankyou

Joe

 

[kchear1]

I am also wanting to buy a thumb for my BX24.

Has any one ever purchased,used or seen one from Extreme Metal Products as listed on E- Bay?

If so, how did it work?

Thankyou

Joe

Here you go...click the video link to view..
Extreme Metal Products, LLC

 

[mswlogo]

Looks to me (just an opinion) that it could have the same issue as the wallenstein. Full power of curling bucket (with it's strongest point, close to where it pivots) and go straight down the dipper stick because the "thumb" can grip something very close to dipper stick.