Re-build trailer axles

[Corm]

Hello folks! I created a problem for myself last week and need some advice on how best to repair. I've got a small tandem axle dump trailer with Dexter 5000 lb axles. I apparently overloaded my trailer with gravel (it was real wet ), and bent both of my axles /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. This was clearly my fault and not any fault of the trailer or the axles.

I called my dealer and inquired about buying just the axle tubes, figuring I could just remove the spindles etc. from my old axles and install them on the new tubes. He said he could get me a deal at $225 @, not including shipping /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif! This got to me thinking and wondering why I couldn't make them myself. My dealer told me the tubes are 3/16" wall tubes. I measured them at 2 3/8" outside diameter, and they are about 46 1/4" long between the end plates. Why couldn't I buy some heavy wall pipe (like with 3/8" walls) and make them myself? Welding the plates on the ends and making new spring perches would be pretty straight forward, and seems I'd have some axles at least as rugged as original, without spending so much $$. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work? Is there anything special about the stock axles that would preclude me from proceeding as I've described?

Thanks in advance for any info shared /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.

Corm

 

[wroughtn_harv]

Been there, done that. Not a problem.

If you can bend lightly the tube so the axle is straight underload. It isn't necessary. But it can help.

If they're Dexter axles I believe the difference between fifty two hundred axles and six thousand ones is the wall thickness of the tubing. The six thousand go to seven thousand with the change from six lug wheels to eight lug.

Since your bend chances are is in the middle of the axle you can pick up some two inch cold rolled round stock for a stubbing material. You can replace your deformed material between the perches. This would minimize the opportunity to get your stub welded out of alignment to the new tube and increasing tire wear.

I wouldn't advise you to beef up the axles so you can haul more weight than the trailer was designed. The next failure might not be so easily repaired nor the consequences so minimal.

Hope this helps.

 

[Corm]

Hello Harv! Thanks for your quick response.

I understand what you are saying. My axles, especially the rear one, are not only bent in the middle, but also were 'tweaked' between the spring perches and the end plates. I've never tried to straighten something like this (I also don't have any kind of press), but it sure looks to me like it is bent too much to be repaired.

I understand what you are saying about building the axles stronger than the rest of the trailer. I had the trailer chuck full of gravel, and the trailer itself handled the weight without a problem. I knew I had a good load on her, and was watching and listening as I dumped it. It didn't sound any different than it ever does. I thought I was OK, until I noticed the axles /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. The trailer is real stout.

My understanding of your response makes me believe there is nothing special about the tubes in the Dexter axles. This means that a piece of pipe that I could buy at my local steel supplier would work just fine. Am I right?

Again, thanks for your help. Much appreciated! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Corm

 

[LWFrisk]

Over the years, I have built a lot of trailer axles. I pick up some square tubing (size depending on the size of the trailer) and usually 1/4 inch wall. I clamp it in a good vice and use a carpenters level to make sure is is perfectly level with the world. When I build an axle from scratch, I visit my local salvage yard and purchase a couple of spindles that will match the wheel pattern of what is going to pull the trailer. Depending how much drop I want, I drill a good size hole in the top or bottom of my axle tube to hold the spindle to the axle. Again, depending on the drop I want on the axle, I sometimes mount the spindle right side up or sometimes bottom side up. I snug the bolt tight enough to require substantial pressure to move the spindle as I align/measure the tow-in and camber. I use a carpenters level in the vertical position to set the camber. If the rims are without tires, I check the rim for run-out and find a neutral position, then mark it for future reference. If the tires are mounted on the rims, I still find the neutral position and make up a metal block to allow the carpenters level to clear the tires. Occasionally the hole in the top/bottom of the spindle is of-set and I use some heat to bend the wall of the axle tube to gain the correct camber angle.

When I am satisfied the tow-in and camber are where I want them, I really torque the bolt and then make a series of tack welds to make sure it stays put. I spread the welds so they will not pull the setting off as the spindle is welded in place, I flame cut gussets to add more strength between the axle and spindle, usually boxing it in for strength and appearance. Again, don't do all of the welding on one side of the spindle, take your time so it doesn't get hot enough to change the setting as it cools.

I have made lots of trailer axles and have used everything from Volkswagen to heavy duty truck spindles to make up axles. I have never had one break. Tubing, spindles, a well mounted vice, tape measure, carpenters level a decent welder and some time and you will have a very good axle "your way".

Hope this helps -- Leo in San Diego

 

[Corm]

Thank you Leo! I appreciate the time you took to write up your reply. I've never built an axle from scratch, so your description of what to do is a help. My job will be a little easier, as the spindles from my axles are welded to a flat plate, that is bolted to a corresponding flat plate welded to the end of the axle tubes. I believe if I pay attention and weld plates onto my new axle tubes nice and square, I should be all set.

The only other question I have is regarding the 'arch' between the spring perches the original axles had. I'm thinking it was there so the axles were flat while under a load (allowing the axle to flex). If I use somewhat stiffer tubes for my axles, should I be concerned about using axle tubes that will be flat while the trailer is empty, and hopefully stay flat while it is loaded?

Again thanks for your help. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Corm

 

[Rowski]

Corm

Did the rest of your dump trailer handle the rest of the weight? If it did I would jump up an axle size (weight rating). Also trailer axles are cambered. If you use you trailer off road mostly, its not a problem.

BTW... How come your gravel is WET /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif???

 

[LWFrisk]

I have never put an arch in the axle. I always seem to over build (use a size or two heavier than needed). That doesn't make me right on the arch. If I think the tube or spindle will give a bit, I just add a bit of camber when I set the spindle in relation to the axle. To keep the camber the same on both sides, I just make up a small spacer between the level and the lower contact on the rim. At one time I had a caster/camber gage, but I like the level better. Some builders add a bit of toe-in. I usually don't unless I think the axle or spindle might flex.

I have a tandem wheel trailer that I built over 30 years ago that has been from the tip of Mexico to the Canadian border and from coast to coast several times and it still runs true. I used VW bus spindles and torsion setup on it because we were racing the Score races including the Baja and always had extra spare at that time. I just widened the rear torsion to match the tread width I wanted. It has been overloaded more times than not but has held up extremely well.

Good luck -- Leo in San Diego

 

[daedong]

Leo,
Here in oz i don't think we are allowed to use hollow section steel for trailer axles any more. But years ago i welded many stubs to hollow steel and always welded them in a perfect parallel to the axle, and when setting them on the frame measure from the tip of the axle on both sides to the coupling to get it to track square.

 

[DavidJ]

Like Leo, I've built trailer axles out of many different auto axles. I even built one out of a Ford Escort rearend so it would have independant suspension. The greatest advice I can give you is to make absolutely sure to keep the spindles square and straight with the axles. If they're out a line you'll eat tires up in a hurry. The same goes for mounting them to the frame, keep them square!

 

[Corm]

Hello Derek! Yes, the rest of my trailer handled the weight with no problems. I use it on the road primarliy, so want to make sure what I do will not detract from the handling qualities it had.

As far as why the gravel was wet, Mother Nature has been keeping everything wet here lately..... there won't be any dry wells around here this fall, that's for sure! Did you get nailed with any storms last night? We sure did! I spent 3 hours this morning repairing my driveway /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. It's good seat time on the tractor though /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Corm

 

[andyfletcher]

Frisk:

Glad someone as used auto spindles.

I'm building a double axle myself. Axles are 3/16 X 3in Box, frame 2 X 4 box. Spindles are from K car and are bolted to 3/8 thick plate.

What concerns me is they use 4 bolts for each spindle slightly less than 1/2in thick NF (prob 3/8). The heads are stamped M - 1000 so I figure they're rated to 1000 lbs each, I hope. Total load should withstand 4000 shock load (4 bolts) and 2000 running load per spindle I figure.

When I weld the plate to the axle and the bolts are already bolted to the plate, is there a possibility of losing the tensile strength from the bolts because of welding heat. ?

I could use ordinary temporary bolts during the welding process then remove them and re-install the 1000 originals but was concerned with accidentally welding close to the tap holes causing distortion and I would never be able to remove the temporary bolts.

Trailer load will never exceed 4400 lbs.

What do you think?

Thanks for the help.

 

[SPIKER]

Andy: trailers have been built using just about any redily available axels. lots of the small font wheel drive cars have straight axels in back, that can be unbolted and used for light duty trailers...

I would use the same bolts, and when the plates are all aligned and square and welded on I would then weld the axel plates to the spindle plates rather than just depending on the bolts. some small down hill welds you don't have to weld it 100% around...

just my 2 cents worth.

the bend in the center of the axels are for alognment (caster & camber) the axels are built in jigs straight, and the pads welded on, then they are bent XX amount to put in the caster & camber for proper wheel /tire wear under loads.

at least that is way I've seen them done. others when cutting & shorting the moblil home axels will cut out the bend, straight, then re-weld them right width appart with a small amount of gap in/under the bottom of the axel and flush at the top. this puts back some of the caster/camber, others simply cut each end and remove 2 sections and then install smaller ID pipe inside the larger trailer axels, then re-weld which is a better way in my oppinion... leave a gap so you weld the new inner pipe to both parts of the axels, all flush and nice, adds a bit of unsprung weight but not much.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[andyfletcher]

Spiker.

Yeah, there's not much room for running a fillet weld around the spindle but it's a good idea anyway for the added security.

Another thing too about drop axles, I don't use them the way they are. If you use it that way bolting the leaf spring to the drop axle, and you hit a pot hole or anything, the frontal shock torques the axle/spring "U" bolts in a twisting action. The "K" axles are a composit of bent 1/8in stock bent over a solid 1.25in bar, not too good a foundation for a spring plate.

That's why you see the "K" axles are prevented from torquing by a support strut connected to the frame. Anyway, trailers built this way are a dead giveaway and DOT should pull them over or prevent plating.

I see a lot of "K" double axle trailers used as is in that fashion and it's just a matter of time before metal fatique snaps the "U" bolts or breaks a spring.

I don't use toe in on trailers. I figure with the low miles these things do it's not worth worrying about the tire life. Steering isn't a problem either of course.

I agree with wheel tilt, it's required to get the tire to run right on heavy load. I use 1/8 deflection in any wheel 14" to 16", and 1/16 for under 14.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[arkydog]

Corm- I just bought a 20 foot double axle trailer with a steel floor from an old boss of mine and he was a real animal ( some's good, more's better, and too much is just enough- type guy) and he loaded a Case 580 backhoe on it and bent both axles. I took an axle out one at a time and straightened them on the trailer with chains and wood blocks, and a 12 ton bottle jack . Took about 1 1/2 hrs each and both the toe and camber are just right. Straightened them by chaining both ends down and jacking up where bent.

arkydog

 

[Corm]

arkydog - I've been wondering if trying to straighten them would be worth the effort. Certainly wouldn't cost much to try... I just talked this over with a buddy of mine and he helped someone straighten out a slightly bent axle a few years ago. He volunteered to help me with mine. My rear axle is really bent, it has close to a two inch bow in the middle. That seems like a lot of bend to straighten out, but I guess I've got nothing to lose. Heck, I can't mess it up much worse that it already is! Thanks for sharing your experience with me.

Corm

 

[RonR]

That's what I was sitting back and wondering. If you could straighten it out, then weld some 1/2 x 4 or such strap on edge to strengthen it, wouldn't that work (at least for awhile)?

Ron