Radiator removal advice

[Jeff W]

Trying to removed the radiator from a 1948 JD model A. I cannot turn the bolts running through the bottom of the cast iron case to the frame and there is very little access for tools underneath due to the "C" shape of the frame. Does anyone know if the bolts thread though the cast iron before going through the frame? If I grind the heads off on top can I drive shank of the bolt on through and out the bottom? I am at my wits end with this one . . .

 

[boggen]

BP blaster. spray some on, wait half day, spray some more on, wait another half day, spray some more on wait a half day and go at it. it takes some time for BP blaster to work down into the threads, and deal with rust build up.

getting a torch into area to help expand things might work.

make sure you use a 6 sided box end wrench or socket wrench vs other. so you do not strip the head of the bolt off.

find a metal pipe that fits over socket wrench or box wrench, and use it as a cheater bar. to help get extra force to turn bolt. i have some socket wrenches were i cut the C end off of a wrench to make it easier to put a cheater bar on. better yet get a "breaker bar" vs regular socket wrench. breaker bars are much easier to get a cheater bar on them.

do you have a good size air compressor and tank and air impact wrench? and zap zap zap them off. air impact wrench normally require a good size air compressor to run them decently. as in both PSI and CFM of air.

remember impact wrench sockets are normally black / dark gray in color and normally more costly than regular sockets for a socket wrench. reason? impact wrench sockets normally are made out of a higher grade of metal or thicker metal, that can withstand the force put on them from an impact wrench.

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BP blaster, and breaker bar would be 1st choice first.
then go to buying a good air compressor to run an air impact wrench. if you already have air compressor that can run impact wrench, i would buy impact wrench and try that first. with some BP blaster.

 

[Jeff W]

Thanks for the thought and I have all of the gear, but there is no room for any of this gear within 12" space between the 'C' shaped frame rail. I am trying the BP Blaster but there is not even room for a short handled ratchet because the there is a dome at the bottom of the radiator that dips down inside the frame rails. Not sure how they ever mounted the radiator when new unless they built their own tools. Will try the BP Blaster a few more times and a box end wrench, but after that I'll be left with a 4" grinder and cutting wheel to cut the heads off and then a breaker bar to pry it off the frame.

 

[sixdogs]

BP blaster. spray some on, wait half day, spray some more on, wait another half day, spray some more on wait a half day and go at it. it takes some time for BP blaster to work down into the threads, and deal with rust build up.

getting a torch into area to help expand things might work.

make sure you use a 6 sided box end wrench or socket wrench vs other. so you do not strip the head of the bolt off.

find a metal pipe that fits over socket wrench or box wrench, and use it as a cheater bar. to help get extra force to turn bolt. i have some socket wrenches were i cut the C end off of a wrench to make it easier to put a cheater bar on. better yet get a "breaker bar" vs regular socket wrench. breaker bars are much easier to get a cheater bar on them.

do you have a good size air compressor and tank and air impact wrench? and zap zap zap them off. air impact wrench normally require a good size air compressor to run them decently. as in both PSI and CFM of air.

remember impact wrench sockets are normally black / dark gray in color and normally more costly than regular sockets for a socket wrench. reason? impact wrench sockets normally are made out of a higher grade of metal or thicker metal, that can withstand the force put on them from an impact wrench.

==========
BP blaster, and breaker bar would be 1st choice first.
then go to buying a good air compressor to run an air impact wrench. if you already have air compressor that can run impact wrench, i would buy impact wrench and try that first. with some BP blaster.

This should be a "sticky" somewhere because this is exactly how and the only way to do it. One broken bolt from rushing the job isn't worth it. PB Blaser is great stuff it. For me a torch is last on the list but it sometimes helps. When you do get it loose treat it like eggshells for fear of banging it up.

 

[boggen]

Thanks for the thought and I have all of the gear, but there is no room for any of this gear within 12" space between the 'C' shaped frame rail. I am trying the BP Blaster but there is not even room for a short handled ratchet because the there is a dome at the bottom of the radiator that dips down inside the frame rails. Not sure how they ever mounted the radiator when new unless they built their own tools. Will try the BP Blaster a few more times and a box end wrench, but after that I'll be left with a 4" grinder and cutting wheel to cut the heads off and then a breaker bar to pry it off the frame.

i assume you have taken the hood completely off, along with any sort of front shield and front side panels. but is there any sort of "front weights" that you might be able to pull off? or does the center axel connection point cover everything up / hide everything for radiator?

if you pulled the fan belt off, and fan blade off. would it give you extra room to put a good breaker bar and cheater bar on the bolt heads? there has been a few times were i went up to 5 to 7 foot cheater bar on a few bolts on tractors.

 

[Jeff W]

6 point socket on a cut off a breaker bar ( about 6" long) and a hammer plus elbow grease and BP Blaster. About 7 hours total for four bolts. I told my wife the radiator reminded me of her, I didn't beat it, it just gave up because it knew I wouldn't. Now buying a new copper core, gaskets, and bolts. It should be running like new in a week or so!

 

[flusher]

If you plan to work on other old iron, I'd get a good impact wrench with a selection of socket sizes. That's what I use for my restoration work plus PB Blaster, Mouse Milk and 50/50 ATF/acetone mix to cut through the thread rust. My success rate is about 80% with the remainder achieved by cutting the bolt or splitting the nut.

 

[neven]

Try heating the bolts and then take candle wax, it will be sucked in and will help you turn some of those. I just did my B and I broke some and you probably will to.