Quick disconnect that isn't

[3Ts]

I am having lots of trouble with the push-in, pull-out disconnect to the point that I've tried for an hour to get it unplugged. I managed to get the top one unplugged, but the bottom one isn't coming out. I finally gave up and got my wrenches and the hose is off, but the plug is still in there. Bump the lever and I'll lose a lot of oil.
So, 2 questions:

1) how do I get the plug out? I used to be able to get it out but I'm not as strong as I used to be either and unlikely to get stronger than I am now.

2) Is there an easier to use connector that will fit in here? I have a series of connectors on the fender with the collar that you slide back to connect/disconnect and those work much easier for me.

I plan on visiting with my JD dealer this week to see what he says, worst case: I'll have to fab up a whole new configuration with a new bulkhead connection.

 

[Tx Jim]

My guess is sleeve that's designed to move on barrel to allow male fitting to disconnect/connect is dirty/rusty. I suggest to apply some penetrating type oil such as PB Blaster or Kroil to exterior of barrel. Have you attempted tapping sleeve with a small hammer?

 

[mikester]

2) Is there an easier to use connector that will fit in here? I have a series of connectors on the fender with the collar that you slide back to connect/disconnect and those work much easier for me.

Judging by the rust everywhere else and lack of grease on grease fittings no connector is going to last for you.

 

[ptsg]

Judging by the rust everywhere else and lack of grease on grease fittings no connector is going to last for you.

Rust? All I can see is dust from working with dry clay soil.

 

[ericm979]

If there is still residual pressure in the lines the couplers will be difficult to disconnect. With the tractor off, operate the lever both directions to release pressure. If there's weight on a cylinder, let it down before disconnecting. If the tractor sat for a while you may need to bleed off pressure that builds up as the oil expands from heat.

There are two kinds of action for quick connects: the 'breakaway' type where the release sleeve on the female end can be moved either in or out to release the male coupler, and the regular kind where you have to move the sleeve outwards to release the male end. The idea with the breakaway type is that the sleeve gets attached to the tractor (they make clamps for that). Then if something pulls on the hose hard enough it will release the male coupler, saving the hoses from damage.

It's hard to tell if yours are breakaway type or not. The mount looks like it could be but it looks like there are steel lines to the female ends on the tractor. Female breakaways need flexible lines since the coupler body moves. But if they are breakaway type you can pull on the male end and it'll come out, and just push it in to connect.

Some coupler models have stiffer springs internally and on the release sleeve than others, making them harder to operate.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The female coupler looks like a "true" breakaway coupler which is why it works with the steel lines. All the moving parts are internal. Try pushing in and then pulling out all in one quick motion.

You might need to reconnect the hose to be able to do that.

Good luck.

 

[3Ts]

The connector is the breakaway type. There is a sleeve between the outside barrel and the connector that slides in and out. I'm supposed to be able to push it in and yank it out. I can push it in, but can't seem to yank hard enough.
The "rust" is actually very fine clay dust that gets EVERYWHERE and stays airborne for a long time, including the house so I try to keep the grease points wiped off. The dust is so bad at times I have to wear a mask.
I have run into the problem with pressure in the lines before so I do make sure all the pressure is released before I disconnect things. Sometimes it takes multiple back 'n forth on the lever to release the pressure.

Then if something pulls on the hose hard enough it will release the male coupler, saving the hoses from damage.

Maybe this is the answer. I can try putting the hose back on and just driving off (slowly) to see if it disconnects. It's attached to an 800# grapple so I would think that should be heavy enough to pull it loose.

 

[WranglerX]

My guess is sleeve that's designed to move on barrel to allow male fitting to disconnect/connect is dirty/rusty. I suggest to apply some penetrating type oil such as PB Blaster or Kroil to exterior of barrel. Have you attempted tapping sleeve with a small hammer?

Ditto....

If "O" ring are involve they could be going bad and gummed up and forming their own "lock"...

Dale

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

Make a slide hammer. That fitting has NPT threads. Get a length of black pipe and a Tee fitting. Then get a shorter length of pipe that fits over and use it as a slide hammer.

Heck, just make a Tee handle out of black pipe and pull on it.

Once apart, liberally flush with spray lube between the body and sleeve.

 

[Wagtail]

If there is still residual pressure in the lines the couplers will be difficult to disconnect. With the tractor off, operate the lever both directions to release pressure. If there's weight on a cylinder, let it down before disconnecting. If the tractor sat for a while you may need to bleed off pressure that builds up as the oil expands from heat.

I'd tend to go with this one. First, I'd spray the sleeve with a penetrating lubricant (WD40 or a lanolin based product) and let it penetrate for a while.

Next, turn the tractor off and work the hydraulic control for those 'lines' in both directions to release any pressure. Then, hopefully, the coupling will release.

Do the opposite procedure to connect. (Tractor off, work the control, connect)