Question on E7018AC

   / Question on E7018AC #1  

Furu

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I speak O/A welding pretty well and can talk RG45 or RG60 etc with the best but I am new to arc welding.
The first two digits in an electrode Is the tensile strength, the third digit is the weld position and the third and fourth together gives you the type of coating and welding current. My question is with Lincoln Electric E7018AC. The AC implies it is an AC rod but the 18 is clearly coded as AC, DC- or DC+ so why does Lincoln Electric put the AC on the end? Is this not normal 7018 rod and only AC rod or is this just an anomaly.
 
   / Question on E7018AC #2  
I will take a stab at it.. Regular 7018 is designed for DC only. though I have seen one example of a bead that was run on AC with regular 7018 that didn't look bad, just a little more spatter, However 7018AC has stabilizers in the flux to make it run better on AC.. and to further complicate the issue, I have heard said that 7018AC runs nicely on DC as well.

James K0UA
 
   / Question on E7018AC
  • Thread Starter
#3  
[/QUOTE]
k0ua said:
I will take a stab at it.. Regular 7018 is designed for DC only. though I have seen one example of a bead that was run on AC with regular 7018 that didn't look bad, just a little more spatter, However 7018AC has stabilizers in the flux to make it run better on AC.. and to further complicate the issue, I have heard said that 7018AC runs nicely on DC as well.

James K0UA


DC- or DC+ that it runs nicely as well on?
 
   / Question on E7018AC #4  
7018AC is targeted for people with either:
a) Smaller consumer grade AC only buzzboxes. (e.g. Lincoln AC-225, Miller Thunderbolt 225, Hobart Stickmate, Century, Sears, Forney, Marquette, etc. that are AC only welders of small to medium size).
b) Also works well on consumer grade DC machines that are smaller even though DC in comparison to big industrial DC machines or generator type DC welders.

In short, 7018AC has some arc stabilizers in it as well as some ingredients for slightly easier initial arc strikes over regular 7018 so it will supposedly work slightly better with any smaller welders that typically have lower OCV regardless of whether they are AC or DC.

FYI - 7018 (or 7018AC) is a low hydrogen rod and as such technically requires rod oven storage for code work. These rods burn much better and easier when warm from the oven. They can be quite tricky and difficult to run if damp and cold. There are improvisational tricks to help though for non-code work like briefly sticking a rod to heat and dry it. I personally only fool with 7018 or 7018 AC if I suspect I am welding some exotic alloy steel. I do not bother with the hassles of 7018 or 7018AC for regular plain old mild steel.
 
   / Question on E7018AC #5  

DC- or DC+ that it runs nicely as well on?
[/quote]

Lincoln recommends theirs DC+ and claims easy re-strikes. (one of the downsides to regular 7018). I have never tried any.

James K0UA
 
   / Question on E7018AC #6  

DC- or DC+ that it runs nicely as well on?

Lincoln recommends theirs DC+ and claims easy re-strikes. (one of the downsides to regular 7018). I have never tried any.

James K0UA[/QUOTE]

I disagree with the easy re-satrts. I have only used it with an ac tombstone (that will change in a few days :D) and I find unless I flick it when I break the arc, I have to peck like a chicken to get it to start. That might change with hot start cranked way up on the longevity.
 
   / Question on E7018AC #7  
Lincoln recommends theirs DC+ and claims easy re-strikes. (one of the downsides to regular 7018). I have never tried any.

James K0UA

I disagree with the easy re-satrts. I have only used it with an ac tombstone (that will change in a few days :D) and I find unless I flick it when I break the arc, I have to peck like a chicken to get it to start. That might change with hot start cranked way up on the longevity.[/quote]


Let us know about that easy restrike thing when you get your new DC machine. Everyone has their own method for dealing with the restrike thing. I just break of the "corn" with my thumb before restarting the arc, some use a rough file, some just keep pecking away.. or the fling it while hot like deereman here. Use what works.

James K0UA
 
   / Question on E7018AC #8  
Trovenn,

I think you'll find that there is a lot of "flexibility" in the meaning of the last two digits from rod to rod, and manufacturer to manufacturer.

The last two numbers can be read together, as some instructional texts currently suggest but it doesn't offer as much accuracy as understanding what each number means.
The first two numbers of course always indicate tensile strength. In this case "70" of course is 70k psi.

The third number indicates position capability.
1 is all position
2 is horizontal and flat but varies with joint type (F or G)
3 (and you probably won't find many if any around now) is for flat only.

The last number indicates flux composition, AC/DC/Polarity, arc type, penetration and and iron powder percent (which is what makes a rod "smooth".
This number can vary a little. I am "quoting" from an older text here, but it is pretty much one of the best welding texts I have found that dates back to the 60's and 70's. Some of the rods may not be found easily any more, but at one time they existed. I can't think of any 7's or 5's right now you could find.

Last number:
0: 6010 is DC reverse, organic slag, deep pen. 6020 is AC or DC and mineral with med pen., no iron powder in flux.
1: AC or DC rev polarity, organic slag, digging arc, deep penetration, no iron powder iron powder in flux
2:AC or DC rutile slag(titanium dioxide) medium digging arc, medium penetration, 0-10% iron powder in flux
3: AC or DC Rutile slag, soft arc, light penetration 0-10% Iron powder flux
4: AC or DC, rutile slag, soft arc light penetration, 30-50% Iron powder flux
5: DC rev polarity, low hydrogen slag, medium penetraion, medium arc, no Iron powder in flux.
6: AC or DC rev. polarity, Low hydrogen slag, medium arc, medium penetration no iron powder in flux
7: AC or DC Mineral slag, soft arc, medium penetration, 50% Iron Powder
8: AC or DC rev. polarity, low hydrogen slag, medium arc, medium penetration, 30-50% iron Powder in flux.

As I said, this is my "refresher" manual I use from time to time. Admittedly it's out of date. The name of it is Welding technology, (2nd ed) , Giachino, weeks and Johnson. Publisher: ATP (American Technical Publishers) 1973. I have others, but this is my favorite because of the technical information it puts in easy to read, and access form. If a customer asks me a tech question that I can't remember, and in some cases I don't know, it's my first go to book. There are other sources, that are used in the industry like Lincoln's "bible". Sorry for the tangent. I know someone is going to question my source on this, but I put it out for all to see and look up if they have a question about it.

So to sum up the 7018, it can be used in all positions, with AC or DC+ polarity. You won't find it won't work well at all in DC-...just simply a nightmare, unless it is open root and is needed. It doesn't mean that it would be ideal in AC either...but a good AC welder, with a copper wrapped heavy core will weld it. A lighter, more modern buzzbox may not. Hence the need for the AC rating. The AC rods have a little different flux composition. It won't be the same color, as the other spent fluxes. It'll usually be charcoal black, with little sheen, and it seems to be "lighter" in weight...from my experience. It welds great on DC as well...restarts seem easier in DC too.

K0ua, I peck every rod like a chicken...just my way of doing things. I don't like scratching like a chicken to start the arc.:p It's a muscle memory thing, and it gives me good starts.
 
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   / Question on E7018AC #9  
About the 7018ac restrikes with the adjustable hot start, it works great. I can leave the corn on the end, and just bairly touch to the work, and it starts right up. This was with it up around a 6 or so. It started as easy as a new 6011.
 
   / Question on E7018AC #10  
About the 7018ac restrikes with the adjustable hot start, it works great. I can leave the corn on the end, and just bairly touch to the work, and it starts right up. This was with it up around a 6 or so. It started as easy as a new 6011.

Oh boy, what have we done! :laughing::laughing::laughing:;)
 

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