Question on cat1 3pt setup for Yanmar YM2210D

[souperbee]

I recently purchased a Yanmar YM2210D and the sway chains are too long. I have the bar tires on the rear and the clearance is so close that the sway chains have to be tight so that the implements won't rub the tires.
1.Did anyone else have this problem?
2. I am thinking about re-drilling a hole in the lower lift arm to make the sway chain tighter will this work?
3.All the implements you put on would have the same clearance ? correct?
Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
This is my first tractor so if this sounds stupid oh well, I never claimed to be the brightest bulb on the block.
Thanks

 

[MJPetersen]

Welcome to TBN. I trust that you will find all the help that you need here, and I am confident that you will find many people who are very helpful. Sway chains are a topic that has been discussed a time or two so you might find something in a search.

One thing that I know is that with my 1510D I improved the situation tremendously by reversing my tires. If the rear wheels are on your tractor so that the valve stem is on the outside--it is possible that you could switch right with left and reverse them so that the valve stem is on the inside and gain clearance. For me the difference was very significant.

I understand that your sway chains do not have an adjustment? Some do with a turnbuckle in the link of the sway chain. If you do not have a method of adjusting then maybe that addition may help. If you are making an adjustment to your sway chains you need to check and make sure that they are not too tight. For me the tightest position is down. I can check the tightness of my chains by lowering the implement and adjusting the chain so that there is a tiny bit of slack. When the implement is then raised all the way there will be more slack, but still not enough to hit the tires.

Even though there are standards for Cat 0, 1, 2 in pin size and distances, not all manufactures adhere to the same standard. Just look at the problems that some have with the Quick connects. Therefore, if the sway chains are correctly adjusted for one implement they may not be perfectly adjusted for a second.

Welcome again to TBN.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[souperbee]

Mike, thank you for the kind words and information! I will try the tire changing method. My sway links have the turn buckle but they are turned in as short as it will go. (but still too long) by what appears to be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. If the tire method doesn't work what do you think about re-drilling the hole? I have a lot to learn about tractor setups, time and this group will get me through it. Hopefully I will be able to help on certain subjects. I worked as a mechanic for 35 years until I became disabled 12 yrs ago. My specialty used to be diesel engines. I'll let you know how things turn out.
Jack

 

[Tom_Veatch]

... My sway links have the turn buckle but they are turned in as short as it will go. (but still too long) by what appears to be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. If the tire method doesn't work what do you think about re-drilling the hole?
...

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be simpler and eaiser to take a link out of the chain before drilling new holes in the lift arms.

 

[California]

... what do you think about re-drilling the hole?

We occasionally see posts where someone bent the arms blading in reverse, so I think weakening the arms by drilling them should be a second choice after you have tried everything else. If the tires aren't all chewed up already then the previous owner must have had them set up about right.

You might turn the pins on the implements inward, or keep a HF Quick Hitch on it which should hold the arms away from the tires. But I would swap the tires left/right as the first measure to get a wider stance.

 

[souperbee]

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be simpler and eaiser to take a link out of the chain before drilling new holes in the lift arms.

Tom, there is only 1 link and then it is welded to the bolt that goes into the turnbuckle so there is no option of taking out a link.

 

[souperbee]

I would swap the tires left/right as the first measure to get a wider stance.

California, Do you mean swap Tire and Wheel because of the offset in the Wheel? It looks like that would work.

 

[MJPetersen]

As one who has "deformed" my lower arms on the 3 pt I would not recommend doing anything that would weaken the arms at all. I have since made some new arms for myself that I do not believe that I have the power to bend.

From the sounds of it swapping the tires will be all that you need to do. The added benefit will be that the tractor is more stable. Often it helps if you can send a picture with your post, as there are so many different setups and "customizations" that each tractor is almost unique. Some have the link chains outside of the arms, some inside; some attach to the arms with a bolt on device, some with a eye bolt etc.

Although in FL it is mostly flat. I do not know where you live exactly, but my in-laws live in Dade City (About 30 miles NE of Tampa).

Have a good one,

Mike

 

[California]

California, Do you mean swap Tire and Wheel because of the offset in the Wheel? It looks like that would work.

Yes - like MJPetersen first mentioned. Move the left tire/wheel assembly to the right side, and right to left, and mount them with the tread going the same direction as before. (This will put the valve stems on the inside - no big deal.) The offset in the wheels will make a wider stance this way.

But first be sure the tires aren't ballasted with water or chemicals, because ballasted tires are dangerously heavy.

 

[mark777]

Souperbee,

I haven't noticed if you stated your chains are running parallel to the lift arms or in an 'X' pattern? If you cross them you should eliminate a few more inches of free play...like in this attachment: