Question about my new 3520

[Mech]

I got my 3520 on Monday and have checked everything out, but am not sure about the heat and AC.

I started the tractor this morning and ran it for a bit over 15 minutes w/o the heater on. I ran it at about 1500 RPM. The outside air temp was 48 deg. The temp gauge went up to about the 1/5 point. I turned the heater on and I was getting air out of the heater vents that was a bit warm. When I shut down I lifted the hood and the radiator cap was still cool to the touch.

The day before I didn't seem to get any heat until I worked the tractor a bit, grading my drive and it did get uncomfortably warm in the cab.

BTW, the AC also seems only a bit cool although I can hear the compressor load the engine down when I turn it on.

So my questions is, for those living in a cooler climate are you able to start your tractor, leave it at idle and have the heater warm the cab up or do you have to get the tractor under load first?

Also with a 48 deg outside temp should I be frozen out of the cab when running the AC full up?

I've read about the roof leak issues. Is there a way to check that w/o pulling the cab roof?

thanks,

 

[Danscaper]

the tractor wont get warm until you actually start to work it. it does take that coolant about 15 minutes to warm up but you must be running the loader or doing something that works that engine. The a/c will not be that cold blowing out of the vents if your temp is only 48 degrees. It will indeed freeze your butt off if you were to actually run the machine in 70 degree or above outside temps. For the heater, make sure the cold air knob is all the way closed with the warm one all the way open. and vice versa for when you run the a/c

 

[Mech]

Yes, I did turn the heat off when testing the AC and the AC off when testing the heat, although I assume if the glass fogs up I will need to turn the AC on along with the heat. It sounds like I may not have a problem. I've never had a diesel with heat or AC (a cab tractor) so I guess I expected it to work like a gas power car where I could start it and a few minutes later get in with the heater working.

Thanks for the response.

 

[Danscaper]

Yes, I did turn the heat off when testing the AC and the AC off when testing the heat, although I assume if the glass fogs up I will need to turn the AC on along with the heat. It sounds like I may not have a problem. I've never had a diesel with heat or AC (a cab tractor) so I guess I expected it to work like a gas power car where I could start it and a few minutes later get in with the heater working.

Thanks for the response.

yeah man if it is snowing or raining while cold out, your windows will fog up unless you have the a/c button on. I keep my button on all the time year round. its good for your whole a/c system. On my 3520, I usually start mine and let idle at 1500 rpms for about 10 minutes before I plow snow. When I get in the cab, the air is still luke warm. Once I start driving around and plowing, the coolant will got very hot and you will indeed feel it in the cab and have to turn the thermostat down. Forget about the a/c right now, if its only 48 degrees, you have no way of testing that sucker because it will keep cycling off. Your a/c will be fine when you need it.

fyi, at work when it is cold, we always bump the throttles at lunch so our dozers don't cool down and start blowing cold air. Just the nature of diesels. they dont get hot or stay hot unless the motor is working

 

[greg_g]

My 3720 did the same thing when new. Both cables connecting the climate control knobs with their respective heat exchangers were poorly adjusted at the factory. The roof cover does indeed have to come off to fix this, but its a warranty item. Have them inspect the roof seal integrity at the same time. Booth doors and the rear glass were hung loosely, water was getting in - which means air was getting out as well. That too was remedied under warranty. Personally I believe that my tractor got no pre-delivery inspection at all. It's like they didn't do anything more than unload the tractor form the delivery truck, then call me to come get it. I don't do business with that dealership any more

//greg//

 

[Mech]

Pictures of my baby.

 

[PTW3320]

When I bought by 3320, I found the same thing, just no heat. Even after running it fairly hard for 10-15 minutes it still really wasn't very hot air. I called my JD tech and he told me to shut it down and let it cool down enough so I could safely take the rad cap off. He said if it's low, (which it was) there's probably an air bubble in the system. He said to start it, leave the rad cap off, and run it WOT until water comes out of the cap without burbling. That way the thermostat has opened up and all air bubbles are now out. Since I did that, I have more heat than I know what to do with, I have the heater control knob set at about 1/4 to 1/2, any more is just too hot inside.

 

[Mech]

Pictures of my baby.

View attachment 329913View attachment 329914View attachment 329915

I have since found out that my heater won't work until the tractor is put to work. I was expecting it to be like my truck where I could start it 5 minutes before I leave and then come to a warm cab. It won't do that even if I run it at 2000 RPM. As soon as I start to use the loader or BB for a bit it gets so warm it runs me out of the cab.