Q's on replacing MF230

[trz1000]

I have a Massey Ferguson MF 230 (gas) with a front end loader that I'm looking to replace. It has filled 12.4 rear tires and even with a blade hanging on the 3pt, I just don't get traction with a full bucket.

It's kinda clunky but I really like the machine. That said I'm tired of getting stuck on anything less than perfect ground when using the loader. Spend way too much time digging myself out instead of working.

I dont make a living using the machine so not looking to spend a ton of cash.

Looking at used machines (diesel 4x4s with loader) and have some questions.

The MF is a claimed 38hp and weighs in the 5500# neighborhood. In my mind, the tractor is a little small for the work I ask of it.

I have limited experience with equipment. Besides the MF230, I've only run big stuff working construction during the summer's while in school.

The 4x4 tractors I've found thus far with appealing pricing are in the 20 to 30hp rang and are late 90s,/early 2000s.

How would a more modern 4x4 in the 30hp range compare capability wise?
I obviously need to take some for a test drive but am I wasting my time looking at something under 40hp?

I only use the tractor a few times per month but when I use it, I'm using it hard. No abuse but hard. The old Massey fires up every time. Any issues with diesels sitting for a few weeks between use? I know the light trucks don't like it.

I fully realize unless I spend the money what I end up with won't compare much to the 4x4 backhoes I've run in the past. Ideally I'd get an old construction machine but I need the 3pt and can't justify 2 machines.

 

[gstrom99]

Welcome to the forum. You're gonna be spending $10k+ for a decent used modern(ish) 4x4. Maybe just get a smaller bucket, or chain up the rears on the tractor you've got now?

 

[jeff9366]

Massey Ferguson 230 Dimensions​

Massey Ferguson 230 Weight
Gas Shipping:	3200 lbs 1451 kg
Gas Operating:	3840 lbs 1741 kg

Dimensions
Wheelbase:	72.4 inches 183 cm
Length:	116.1 inches 294 cm
Width:	61.8 inches 156 cm
Height (steering wheel):	58.1 inches 147 cm
Front tread:	48 to 72 inches 121 to 182 cm
Rear tread:	48 to 76 inches 121 to 193 cm

The MF is a claimed 38hp and weighs in the 5500# neighborhood. In my mind, the tractor is a little small (light) for the work I ask of it.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!


In my mind, the tractor is a little small (light) for the work I ask of it.

Look for 4-WD tractors with a bare tractor weight of 5,000 to 6,000 pounds.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width/rear tire spread third, rear wheel ballast fourth. Ample tractor horsepower is needed for PTO-powered implements such as Bush Hogs and snow blowers, but remains subsidiary to tractor weight in defining tractor capability.


VIDEO:

​

Kubota M6060 Dimensions​
Kubota M6060 Weight	5005 lbs 2270 kg (4WD ROPS)
Kubota M6060 Weight	5226 lbs 2370 kg (2WD Cab)
Kubota M6060 Weight	5358 lbs 2430 kg (4WD Cab)

 

[mo1]

I have a Massey Ferguson MF 230 (gas) with a front end loader that I'm looking to replace. It has filled 12.4 rear tires and even with a blade hanging on the 3pt, I just don't get traction with a full bucket.

It's kinda clunky but I really like the machine. That said I'm tired of getting stuck on anything less than perfect ground when using the loader. Spend way too much time digging myself out instead of working.

I dont make a living using the machine so not looking to spend a ton of cash.

Looking at used machines (diesel 4x4s with loader) and have some questions.

The MF is a claimed 38hp and weighs in the 5500# neighborhood. In my mind, the tractor is a little small for the work I ask of it.

I have limited experience with equipment. Besides the MF230, I've only run big stuff working construction during the summer's while in school.

The 4x4 tractors I've found thus far with appealing pricing are in the 20 to 30hp rang and are late 90s,/early 2000s.

How would a more modern 4x4 in the 30hp range compare capability wise?
I obviously need to take some for a test drive but am I wasting my time looking at something under 40hp?

I only use the tractor a few times per month but when I use it, I'm using it hard. No abuse but hard. The old Massey fires up every time. Any issues with diesels sitting for a few weeks between use? I know the light trucks don't like it.

I fully realize unless I spend the money what I end up with won't compare much to the 4x4 backhoes I've run in the past. Ideally I'd get an old construction machine but I need the 3pt and can't justify 2 machines.

Your tractor is physically about the size and weight of a larger compact, which typically are about 45 HP to 60 HP. A 30 HP unit is going to be noticeably smaller. I had an approximately 30 HP diesel 4x4 with a loader and have run a 50 HP compact similar in size and weight to your MF 230, it is a lot more tractor than the 30 HP unit.

If the only issue with the Massey is it getting light in the rear with using the loader, hang something heavier off the 3 point. Your tractor has a category I 3-point so your blade can't be a really heavy one as those are category II or III units. Depending on the size and kind of blade, yours probably is 300-450 pounds if it's a straight blade and 400-600 pounds if it's a box blade. Try a ballast box or a decent 6' bush hog (weighing 1000+ pounds) and that should work a lot better. You certainly can get good loader performance and traction with a 2WD tractor, you just need enough rear ballast. I run about 1200 pounds of tire fluid and an 1100 pound bush hog on my 2WD Deere 5075E and get plenty of traction in soft conditions with a full bucket. If I have something light on the 3 point like an empty broadcast spreader weighing maybe 150 pounds, not so much.

If you need a bigger machine for other reasons, you will want to look at a full-sized utility tractor such as a 5 series Deere, Kubota M, or one of the 50-75 HP CNH units.

 

[trz1000]

Thanks to all for the insight. Good point on focusing on weight more so than HP.

The MF is a good old tractor but is 44 years old and going to need some work in the next year or so in addition to what I need to do to solve the traction issue.

I'm in the do I put a few grand into a tractor worth about the same or sell it and buy something else that is more robust dilemma.

It'd be a no brainer if I used it a little more often. I simply hate spending money that I don't need to.

 

[mo1]

Thanks to all for the insight. Good point on focusing on weight more so than HP.

The MF is a good old tractor but is 44 years old and going to need some work in the next year or so in addition to what I need to do to solve the traction issue.

I'm in the do I put a few grand into a tractor worth about the same or sell it and buy something else that is more robust dilemma.

It'd be a no brainer if I used it a little more often. I simply hate spending money that I don't need to.

You are looking at 10-15 times as much to buy a new tractor than the few grand you say it will cost you to do work on your existing tractor. You also say you don't use the tractor all that much and "hate spending money," so the answer is pretty clear, keep your current machine or trade it on a similar age but somewhat larger utility tractor.

 

[trz1000]

Oh definitely. Buying new is nowhere even close to being a consideration.

All tractors cost money to own with maintenance and the occasional breakdown. There's nothing on these machines I can't fix in my shop. I have no fear of an old machine.

You hit the nail on the head, considering used 4x4 tractors.

Doing some quick napkin math, I'm either going to need wider tires or new wheels that'll accept more weights to get this thing to settle down. The current wheels look like the ford N series wheels from the 50s. Wheel weight guy was polite but direct in laying out reality.

A ballast box isn't real practical as I almost always need to use the rear blade when I'm doing loader work. Too impractical to keep switching implements every couple of loads. I have already added about 500lbs to the blade using some old half moon wheel weights (including reinforcements and mounts). It helped for sure but not near enough.

Cost of tires and/or wheels plus the value of the tractor puts a dent in a new-used machine albeit a relative small dent. That said, I spent 4hrs doing a 3hr job yesterday and that adds up quickly and into consideration into a more appropriate machine.

I'm losing hours per month, if it were hours per week I'd have pulled the trigger long ago.

Thanks again for all of the insight. Been very helpful.