Putting in an entrance culvert

   / Putting in an entrance culvert #1  

s219

Super Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2011
Messages
8,548
Location
Virginia USA
Tractor
Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
I just finished putting an entrance culvert on our new property. I thought I'd walk through the process with some photos.

After determining the culvert location and layout, the first step was to strip all grass, weeds, and topsoil from the area and lay down a bed of compacted crusher run:

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Next, the pipe was placed. I used a 15" ID / 18" OD dual wall polyethylene pipe, ADS N12 (cost $165). The bedding was 4" deep, and placed so that the inner wall of the pipe was about 1" below the ditch bottom.

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The next day, I got more crusher run and placed it around the pipe to hold it in place before doing further work:

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Once the pipe was in place, I excavated a larger area to complete the driveway entrance. I had to remove 8-12" of topsoil from this area, totaling about 8 yards. I used the front loader to dig out the uppermost soil, and then switched to my box blade with rippers once I got close to the clay base. I found that I could back up about a foot to let the rear cutting surface seat the box blade down into the soil, then go forward to scrape a layer off.

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From there, I finished covering up the pipe with crusher run, and thoroughly compacted it. This would let me safely dump a bigger load of crusher run on top of the pipe.

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Here's the first 10 ton load of crusher run spread over the whole area, and compacted:

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And here's the second 10 ton load:

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I compacted this second layer, and then used my box blade (without rippers) to shape it and add a crown. I estimated the depth of gravel over the pipe to be about 13", just above the 12" I was planning for (more is better -- the minimum according to code is 9").

This afternoon, I used some of the excavated soil to buid up a shoulder, which interleaved with the edge of the crusher run and got compacted, then I finished it off with some top soil.

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Finally, I threw down some grass seed and covered it with straw, just in time for rain tomorrow.

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The rain will finish tying everything together and help it all settle out. After giving the entrance some tractor and vehicle traffic for a few weeks, I will add more crusher run as needed to fine tune the surface shape.

This was a great project for a tractor. I did have to hand-excavate part of the initial pipe channel due to the tight space and slope of the ditch, but the tractor was used for almost everything else. Believe it or not, the most technical aspect of the work from the standpoint of tractor operation was knocking down each 10 ton pile of crusher run in place (I had the dump truck center the pile over the pipe each time). I ended up dragging material back down towards me to make a ramp, then drove up it and pushed the rear of the pile forward. Kept repeating until the pile was flattened, then spread and compacted the material.
 

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   / Putting in an entrance culvert #2  
Big thumbs up!! Looks good!
Glad you posted this, have a similar project like this later in the year to do.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #3  
That looks great...

The county put my culvert in when I bought my property. I have to funish the pipe and material....
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #4  
Very nice! Looks quite professional. Nice to have a code to follow to get it right.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #5  
Nice looking job! Now that you have an entrance you need some place to go! NEXT must be to log a right away for a road and then to put in said road and then to build a house and then.......... and then the list just keeps on going. Have fun and keep the pic and reporting coming! Good Job!
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the comments guys. I was just tallying up the materials/time cost.

I transported 4 (loose) yards of crusher run for a cost of $168.

The delivered 20 tons of crusher run (about 11-12 yards after compaction) was $600.

The pipe was $165.

The Kubota used about 3/4 tank of diesel at $18, and about half a tank of gas hauling everything at $39.

So that's a total cost of $990, plus about 25 hours of my time.

It will be interesting when we put in the full driveway (right now, the entrance just leads to a 6' wide tractor path that is holding together pretty well with the native pine straw ground cover). I can't imagine it will be feasible to remove 12" of topsoil along a 600 foot driveway and then build up a 12-14" base of crusher run -- just extrapolating my costs, that would end up costing $15-20K in crusher run alone. I assume we'd be looking at some combination of geo-textile, #3 rock, and then crusher run. But I will be working with a builder for that part, so maybe there is some economy of scale to a bigger project.

One cagey variable in this project was the density of crusher run -- both in terms of calculating how much I could trailer, and in knowing how much to have delivered. I had seen online estimates for the density of crusher run being anywhere from 1.4 to 2.0 tons per yard. And on top of that, all the stone yards around here sell it by the yard for pickup (since it gets judged by loader bucket), but sell it for delivery by the ton (since they weigh their trucks).

When towing my first yard, it was obvious that it weighed no more than my tractor payload, which is about 2900 pounds with the box blade. So that would put a yard of loose crusher run at about 1.45 tons, tops.

The delivered 20 tons compacted to 11-12 yards, which would put compacted crusher run at 1.7 to 1.8 tons per yard.

So that means you really need to have two different calculations. When figuring how much yardage you can trailer, figure each yard of loose crusher run weighs 1.4-1.5 tons. When figuring how much tonnage of crusher run is needed to compact into a known volume, figure you will need 1.7-1.8 tons for each yard of space. That tells me that I was getting about 20% compaction, so if you are compacting very tightly, say with a hand tamper or vibrator or in thin layers, you may need more tons per yard.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #7  
s219,

Very well done and impressive! Thanks for the project post and pics. You sure did it right.

I am going to put a culvert in at a spot on my property where it will rarely be used, but needed once in a blue moon for crossing with my tractor. I will not put nearly as much time or effort into it as you did, but of course, mine won't look like a professional job like yours either or hold up to everyday driveway usage. I plan to dig a little more in the ditch to make room for it, then bury under about a foot of red clay and plant some grass on it and let nature take over.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #8  
Do you haul your tractor on that trailer with that CAR !!!! What the heck ?

Is that an 18 foot trailer ?
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert
  • Thread Starter
#9  
16' landscape trailer and Acura MDX tow vehicle. The trailer and tractor combined weigh about 1000 lb less than the towing capacity of the vehicle, so there is still plenty of margin for implements, extras, etc.
 

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