Purchased a Uniforest 50E log winch for my Kubota L5030

[Modn]

I purchased it a week ago and hooked it up that day and waited for the weekend to give it its first workout. It seems perfect size for my Tractor and I didn't want the "I wish i went bigger" problem. So I found a down top part of a tree which was junk, but figured i would give it a try just to get myself familiar with it. The part of the tree was 18-20" for about 12' then forked into 2-12"/- limbs and it was Maple and punky in the middle, just beyond burnable. I took the cable about 150' in and hooked the choker up and walked back to the tractor and had it at an idle. I pulled the rope all I could and the winch didn't pull it!! I raised the rpms and still wouldn't pull it.....needless to say I wasn't impressed, but did smell faint clutch. I went back in and cut where the forks joined and it had no problem pulling that or the 2 forks together. I went away with my pride in shambles. I re-ajusted the clutch thinking maybe it needed more. I hooked on to a blow down 20" poplar just behind the house. I cut the stump off and didn't bother to limb it as I figured It would rip it right out then limb it.......same thing....it was stopped dead in its tracks. On both trees it would bury the plate but it surely didn't toss around the tractor like I've heard some say....am I honestly expecting too much from this? Is 11,000 lb capacity a lot smaller than I envision? I was pulling from the top pully, would the bottom one help it? These trees were not hung up, but I admit the 2nd one had limbs (live) still on it laying in brush, but not against anything substantial. The directions are horrible about clutch adjustment, but it's not rocket science. Maybe I'm missing something???

 

[dstig1]

I don't know your model...

Trees are very heavy. It always helps to break them down a bit before trying to winch. It also depends on the wood. Punky maple laying on the ground is probably quite wet and heavy. Oak is heavy. Poplar, not so much, but a full 20" tree is still a lot of wood, especially if it leafed out. If you had split it into 2 sections, you could have pulled it out much easier. You will get the feel for it with some time. My advice:

1. Pull with the tractor at full PTO rpms. You need it. (But engage the tractor PTO clutch at or near idle to save wear)
2. You really need to give it a good jerk to get going. You want to yank hard on the cord to start it moving. You are overcoming static friction and inertia. Lots of both. You'll get the feel with time.
3. Watch the winch and tractor, not the log. Glance out at the log as it comes in to make sure all is well, but you need to watch the tractor for earliest signs of it hanging up and giving you enough notice to release the cord.

It is also possible the clutch needs adjusting. Mine will stall the engine if you hold it full on pulling against a log hung up on a stump or something, but I always release when it starts to bog before it dies. It was a very fine adjustment between slipping too much and grabbing at rest on mine. Took a few tries to get it right. It might also need some breaking-in if it has sat a long time (used?). Mine seemed to get better after a few logs, but I bet part of that was experience. And mine is ancient.

 

[Modn]

Good advice, Thank You. It's a new unit but then again maybe it and myself need to broken in. Maybe I should start at a best case scenario and work up from there.

 

[Youare]

I have a Farmi winch on a 30 hp. Kubota, the winch spent its first 20 years on a Ford 8N. The line pull on my winch is around 6,000 lbs.

Most of the time I run the tractor around 1,200 to 1,400 rpm when using the winch. Every log or tree pulls differently depending on the ground conditions, the amount of branches on or off the tree, the type of tree and the branch structure, up hill, or down hill there are many variables. You will be suprised how little sometimes it takes to hold back a tree from moving.

Try pulling smaller sections to begin with. I like to start the pull on the easy side, I don't know how much resistance there is going to be and the winch can pull enough to do damage the tractor so a slow start is best for safety reasons. I always try to make my pulls as in-line as possible with the trctor. I try to stay within 15 degrees each side of the center, at 100 feet out this gives you better than a 50 foot spread to work in. Too much side pull can do damage to the tractor, I broke one of the lift arms on my Ford 8N.

Don't be discouraged. You will find the right adjustments and find out just how much work a winch can do for you. I have become very dependant on mine and a little lazy, I don't pull all my firewood right up close to the trailer so when I get done cutting it is only a step or two to put the pieces in the trailer.

Becareful out there.

Randy

 

[Grandad4]

20" down trees that have not been limbed? Pulling from one end? Yes, I'm thinking you are probably starting out with a difficult challenge.

a) Wet trunk = heavy
b) Limbs hanging on the ground = anchor points
c) Limbs jabbed into the ground = more anchor points
d) Pull from end = entire log resists movement

A lateral pull on one end would dislodge a log embeded in the dirt. A snatch block would double your pulling power.

That said, your new winch may indeed need adjustment. I also just purchased a new Uniforest winch. Agree instructions were written and translated (poorly) where it was made. Haven't tried it yet... I may be back here asking for help myself soon enough. Best of luck!

 

[Modn]

I appreciate the insight as you guys are making me feel better about spending $4600!!! I will be calling them today to see if they have a better owners manual or shop manual so I'm not so blind.

 

[Modn]

For future reference I talked to the rep at Hud-Son where I purchased this unit. He stated from what I described it isn't too much to expect at all, just maybe bad clutch adjustment. Here is how he adjusts them. He turns the big 1-3/4" (I think) nut clockwise until it starts to move the cable, then back it off a quarter turn...obviously with it disconnected from the tractor and everything disengaged. I was close now, b ut when I got it home it was way off as the handle was bottoming out before it fully engaged (what he thought anyway). I will give it another go as soon as it drys up a bit.

 

[Grandad4]

Thanks for that insight! I'll be copying this message and pasting it inside the otherwise uninformative user manual. Best of luck with the adjustment.

Others have said that with logging winches, once you get them adjusted correctly, there's not a whole lot else you have to do to them. Seems that first part is true; maybe the second part is true as well!

 

[Dead Horse]

Two things.......

FIRST and MOST important..... DO NOT run your tractor at "full RPMs" when winching. Once you get your clutch adjusted correctly (see item #2) check your tractor manual for the RPM that delivers peak torque. There is zero need or benefit to running the tractor any faster and CONSIDERABLE danger in doing so. Learn your winch + Tractor capabilities and limitations BEFORE you decide to "go faster". An old farmer (85+) told me early on: "fastest way to move something heavy is SLOWLY". (Water is nie on 9# per gallon, trees are mostly water.)

Second. the clutch adjustment is quite simple. Winch disconnected from pto shaft, pull on cable with gloved hand. If it unspools, tighten adjustment until there is clutch tension on the drum. Then back off ever so slightly 1/8 turn or less and test tension. JUST when the drum is free of tension, tighten everything up. Double check by tugging lanyard and make sure clutch arm does not bottom out, pulling hard on it.

You want the drum to slip just ever so slightly so you can withdraw the cable without having to spin the clutch backwards. My Farmi has an anti-spool brake, I dunno if your winch does, so a tad amount of clutch tension is a good thing if not so equipped.

BTW, did I mention to not run your tractor at full RPMs when winching? Beaucop dangerou! I run a Farmi 601 (13200# capacity) behind a Hesston 100 90 at about 1200 RPM.My tractor barely lugs at full winch capacity, IE it will overpower the winch. Horsepower is NOT your problem with that tractor you are using.

Enjoy your new toy and go easy.......... eeeeeeeeeaaaaaasyyyyyyyyyyy

 

[dstig1]

I said FULL PTO rpms, not full ENGINE rpms. In my tractor, they are one and the same, as far as I can tell. I fail to see the "vast danger" in doing so, as that is how it is designed to run. I control log speed with the clutch rope. Slip the clutch a little to slow down if needed. Mine is also on the lower end of hp for a winch, so I need everything I can get. With a 50 hp L5030, he is in a better position power wise, so he may not need full PTO speed for everything.

While I noted that you need to give it a good yank to get started, that is not totally how I run things - I should have been more clear. I start slow in general, but if you have a big log, you have a bunch of inertia to overcome so full power can be needed at those times, so a hard tug is needed to get that. That comes with experience.

Modn - It does seem like your clutch may need adjusting too.