PTO Stump Grinders

[steve0413]

Thinking about getting a PTO stump grinder for my DK45SE. Will be used half personal and half commercial is my thinking. Been doing lots of reading both manufacturer's websites as well as user forums, but still lots of questions.

I've noticed several manufacturer's have models that range from 15 - 50 HP tractors and models that range from 35 - 100 HP tractors. Would I be better off getting one where the DK45 is at the upper limit or the lower limit of recommended HP? I'm really impressed with the Baumalight grinders, but they seem to be quite a bit more expensive. Are Woods, Worksaver, Shaver, etc. just as good? Will they be hard on my tractor, PTO, etc.?

Some posts say they are better than the Vermeer self propelled models. Is that possible?

I'll be grinding half and half hardwood versus Pine.

Any ideas or experience would be much appreciated.

 

[o2batsea]

The thing that makes a PTO grinder nice is the weight of the tractor. Any tow behind or even a self propelled won't weigh as much. The grinder won't jump around.

The decision should be size vs horsepower required vs cost.

 

[steve0413]

The thing that makes a PTO grinder nice is the weight of the tractor. Any tow behind or even a self propelled won't weigh as much. The grinder won't jump around.

The decision should be size vs horsepower required vs cost.

So are you saying that for a 45 HP tractor, a grinder that weighs 1100 lbs and rated for 35 - 100 HP is better than a grinder that weighs 800 lbs that is rated for 15-50 HP? There just seems to be a wide range of HP requirements on some of these. I don't want to damage my tractor.

 

[foggy1111]

One more try.....(I responded to this twice....and both times my connection fizzeled out on me before I got it posted).

The weight of a tractor will have little influence on a stump ginder....as their is no down pressure from the three point. To me.....a heavier grinder will do a better job of cutting than a light grinder (just as in any other "saw").

Also, More power is better IMO. I think there is a huge difference in teeth and cutting wheel types. I am sold on the Sandvick wheel that the Woods grinder uses. However the Woods grinder is pretty light duty and I feel is better for the occasional user....and likely should not be used in a commercial, day in-day out basis (however I know of several guys that do this).

I like the specs on those worksaver grinders...but have never seen one.

I would investigate the heaviest grinders that you can pick up with your 3 point....if you are looking for a durable commercial grade tractor. Also, IMO the bigger (weight and diameter) grinding wheels will act like a fly-wheel to absorb some of the loads from grinding stumps.

A good slip-clutch (properly adjusted) should prevent damage to the PTO.

 

[mitchelli]

I've to a Kioti CK30 with BH. Have about 70 stumps in the 12-24" size...I keep thinking (around southern Oregon guys get like $50 a stump to grind them) that if I just dug a circle around them about 12" deep and then just cut the stumps(got lots of old chains from my saws) that would be easy and cost effective. These are trees I cleared to open a view from the house, and I don't plan on doing anything other than level, seed and keep it down with a brush hog. What say you experts(implying I am new to all this so every day is a learning experience).

 

[Coyote machine]

I suggest talking to the different manufacturers representatives to get an idea what they feel would work best for your type of usage. Occasional use grinders from the 15- 50HP range would likely do the occasional use category, BUT if you are talking using your tractor and grinder day in/out on commercial jobs you could likely break it with near constant use, and then there's the down time and repair costs associated with the down time of tractor and or grinder. PLUS commercial use puts your tractor warranty into another category and the grinder as well. You should check closely on this for both pieces of equipment before purchase. I know Kioti offers a 4 year warranty, but check out the specifics regarding commercial use- I seem to remember some differences, but I could be mistaken.
I'd also look up some local people in your area who do this for a living and see what they are using or would recommend and who they buy from and why. You may find a particular brand with good service techs locally this way. Call up some tree companies and see what you can find out.
If it were me, I'd want to be in the lower to mid range of the upper limit (HP) but not at the top of it for obvious reasons. Seems like, especially for commercial use, there would be less chance of breakage. Also consider if you will be the only operator of the grinder/tractor or will someone working for you be doing it too? This can have serious consequences for how long the equipment lasts and its general use. Good luck and post back results for us to see.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Thinking about getting a PTO stump grinder for my DK45SE. Will be used half personal and half commercial is my thinking. . .

Will they be hard on my tractor, PTO, etc.? . . .

Yep, but you already suspected that, didn't you? That's why you asked.

 

[o2batsea]

A "real" stump grinder costs tens of thousands. One that goes on a tractor isn't going to cut the mustard, so to speak. Besides, tying up the tractor with a stump grinder may not be the best thing. If it is for commercial purposes, but not something you use every day, why not rent one? It's a business expense, no?

 

[steve0413]

In my original post, I said I'd read a lot and still had lots of questions. The reason is because I read articles from people claiming to have uses both PTO grinders and Vemeer self propelled ones. They claim the PTO one will out-grind the Vemeer. Then other articles say they're rough on you tractor. Just really confused. What I'd really like to do is rent a PTO grinder and see for myself based on my personal needs. But thanks for all the comments.

 

[IndyIan]

I've to a Kioti CK30 with BH. Have about 70 stumps in the 12-24" size...I keep thinking (around southern Oregon guys get like $50 a stump to grind them) that if I just dug a circle around them about 12" deep and then just cut the stumps(got lots of old chains from my saws) that would be easy and cost effective. These are trees I cleared to open a view from the house, and I don't plan on doing anything other than level, seed and keep it down with a brush hog. What say you experts(implying I am new to all this so every day is a learning experience).

If its a brush hog type lawn, I'd just cut them flush with the ground and do a few water collecion pockets with the tip of the saw to aid rotting...
Cut so you are pulling clean chips out of the stump and you can cut a dirty stump for quite a while before dulling your chain. A semi chisel chain should cut longer and I'd learn to sharpen on the saw with a file guide. On a 20" bar I think I can touch up a chain faster than I can change it out.
Also if you're not a hand sharpener type, it might be worth buying the Oregon Powersharp system and then you're always cutting with a sharp chain. Fighting a dull chain sawing on the ground will make you think $3500 is a screaming deal after a couple stumps!