PTO shaft

[PILOON]

What about permatex anti-seize?

Probably one good choice, another might be motorcycle chain lube.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

You do want a lubricant of some kind otherwise rust will weld the shafts together.

NOT if you pull them apart when that tool isn't in use, and store the outer half inside...

Like I said, I've been doing it this way for years and years, it works great, never had even one problem at all.

SR

 

[RoyJackson]

NOT if you pull them apart when that tool isn't in use, and store the outer half inside...

Like I said, I've been doing it this way for years and years, it works great, never had even one problem at all.

SR

Yep, I split them too, come to think of it...

 

[oosik]

I do EXACTLY as Sawyer Rob says. My only PTO implement - Wallenstein chipper - is stored under cover.

I completely remove the shaft. Split it - clean it - grease it - back together - store in one of my out buildings. It's all ready to go in the spring.

Been doing it this way for over twenty years without any problems.

Now if you want to talk about the difficulties of connecting a PTO shaft - completely different story. There ARE those times and I've learned to swear like a real pro.

I have PTO stub "covers" on the tractor and chipper. Six inch long chunk of larger diameter rubber hose. Slip over the stub when not in use. Keeps the stub clean and rust free. Tractor came with one - bought second at the Kubota dealership.

Best PTO lube I've found. Motorcycle chain lube. Sprays on easily - the volatile portion "dries off" - leaves a quality lube with staying power.

However - leaving the PTO shaft out in the weather - you are simply asking for more difficult connections.

 

[TractorGuy]

The sleeve on my shaft cover was hard to slide and it got damaged on my quick hitch making it worse. I ended up cutting both halves of the cover so they come close to meet but no longer have to slide one half in the other. There is a small area of exposed shaft now when connected. Hooking up the mower is a dream now. I may have made the shaft more dangerous but I never get off the tractor with the PTO engaged. In my opinion they made the tolerance of the two halves much tighter than it needs to be.

Keep the shaft clean and lubricated.

Store them with the female end facing down so rain water won't enter. My brush mower has the shear bolt on the male end so I can't reverse the shaft. When I unhook it I use an old V belt to stow the tractor end higher. I put the belt under the shaft and hook it over the top link connection.

My finish mower shaft has the male end on the tractor side so I just unhook it and rest it on a block.

I spray my splines with a light penetrating oil or dry lube. I never grease them.

 

[MoArk Willy]

You pull the front half of the pto shaft out and store it indoors, spray everything with WD40 when you put it back in...

SR

Today I cleaned up my yard and did as you suggested.
It seemed like the most logical answer that I obviously overlooked.
As far as the end I left on the mower, I found that a peanut butter jar fits tightly over the sleeve and keeps rain and other debris from accumulating in it over the winter months.
I could have just pulled it off as well but I think it is protected adequately from the elements.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I am not sure there is a good answer. I have tried all kinds of things but It is still exciting when it comes to taking them off or putting PTOs back on.

 

[WRX]

You do want a lubricant of some kind otherwise rust will weld the shafts together.
Don't ask how I know.
My preferred lube is synthetic based as it won't harden like clay based ones will.
WD40 is my preferred method of flushing out old crap and it helps liquify dry greases.

He's right. Had to replace my PTO shaft on my finish mower because it was frozen together with rust by the previous owner. The shaft gets extended each time it gets connected, plus sometimes when transitioning grades, so lubricant is a good thing.

 

[HayDR]

buy this stuff, it lasts months in direct rain. I use it on everything.

https://amzn.to/3qwYgCv

Great Stuff, I've sold it for 25 years

 

[mo1]

I don't want the WD40 to last longer, I want it to clean/lube the shaft/pto right then, while I put it together, and then I'm done with it.

I don't want anything left behind to collect dirt or anything else, as keep in mind, those shafts have a lot of bearing surface and don't get moved much. SO, why does something that doesn't get moved much need a lube in the first place.

I've been doing my farm equipment the above way for MANY years, and I've yet seen any wear on even one shaft...

Forget the messy dirt collecting grease!

SR

The same #2 grease you squirt into the universal joint zerks and the guard zerks actually is the recommended thing to use on the shaft as well, although there is no zerk. Squirt some out of the end of your grease gun and use your finger to smear it on the outside of the inner shaft. The inner portion of the shaft slides back and forth inside of the outer portion when it is extended and retracted, which is whenever you raise and lower the 3 point. Having this rust together results in a bent PTO shaft that you would have to replace. You don't see all that much dust and crud in this area if you have a working guard as this is a well-covered area.

My recommendation for how to protect a PTO shaft of a piece of equipment left outside is to remove the PTO shaft and take it inside. PTO shafts take up little room and they are all removable from the piece of equipment they are attached to (pull the collar, push the spring-loaded pin, or remove the shear pin and then pull the PTO shaft off the gearbox.) A new PTO shaft is $200+ depending on length and size so I wouldn't exactly want to let it sit outside and rust when it's so easy to take inside.