Proper way to split pump output

/ Proper way to split pump output #1  

BMD

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Oct 2, 2008
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1
What would be to correct way to split the output of a hydraulic pump (12gpm)to supply both a 3 pt hitch and the spool valves for a loader?

Loader is a older Wagner without power beyond. Also,the 3 pt hitch control valves do not support power beyond either. The last owner plumbed the pump directly to the loader and left the 3 pt/aux valves assembly disconnected. We would like to use the 3 pt hitch again.
We could buy a new loader control valve with power beyond or enough spools to control everthing ( loader,3pt and aux) but thats a pretty expensive solution. Would one of the flow dividing valves work? If so,which type is best suited for this?

Anyone have a suggestion or experience with spliting the pump flow to be able to use both? Hydraulics hardware can get expensive fast and I wanted to get some advise before spending money on items that I can not use. Like the 5 section used spool valve I recently purchased and found all sections have work ports open to tank in netural(motor spools?). Oh well, we all live and learn.
thanks in advance
BMD
 
/ Proper way to split pump output #2  
Welcome to TBN:D

You could just take the OUT of the pump, to the IN of the loader valve, then the OUT of the loader valve to the IN of the 3PH. That basically puts all the valves in series.

The other option is a priority flow valve that will send a preset amount of flow to both valves, but I don't think you will need that.
 
/ Proper way to split pump output #3  
kennyd's suggestion is certainly the cheapest solution, but if the loader valve is not designed for full system pressure in the tank circuit (and most smaller manual (as compared to solenoid) spool valves are not) it may leak around the spool seals when the three point hitch is used or, in the worst case, the seal (probably an o-ring) could be damaged.

If you try the direct connection kennyd suggests, and it does not work, the next cheapest solution is a two circuit manual selector valve. If I recall correctly, Surplus Center has them for under $100. Throw the handle one way for the FEL and throw it the other way for the TPH. Mechanically, it is like unhooking the FEL and hooking up the TPH, but with a valve rather than hose ends.

A flow divider will work too, but the lower cost spool type flow divider works by restricting flow on the non-working side to build up pressure equal to that needed for the working side. So, for example, if a 12 gpm pump output is run through a 50/50 flow divider, when the device on the first side (say the FEL) is activated, the flow divider makes sure its gets 1/2 the flow by restricting the flow out the other side of the flow divider; otherwise, nothing would flow to the FEL. But if the FEL needs 1500psi to lift its load, then the 6 gpm flowing through the other side of the flow divider will also be put under 1500 psi pressure by the restriction of the flow divider. The energy given up when 6 gpm drops in pressure from 1500 to 0 when it goes through the non-working side of the flow divider is converted into heat. So the fluid gets warm pretty quickly. If you are not working the FEL much, there may not be enough heat buildup to be a problem, but if one circuit is working regularly, you may create enough heat as the other circuit passes through the flow divider to overheat the fluid. Flow dividers (or priority flow valves) that in use direct less than 90% or so of the flow to one circuit a large part of the time are really just expensive fluid heaters.
 
/ Proper way to split pump output #4  
Farmerford is correct. The best solution is a power beyond capable loader control valve with the hitch flow provided by the PB port on the new loader valve. Plumbing the existing loader control valve in series is a crapshoot at best.
 

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