Problem with starting 2014 Hustler Raptor SD

[hart547]

Hi everyone!

Need some help a "starting problem" with my 2014 model 933127 Kawasaki powered Hustler Raptor SD mower. It's been a beast, and has mown a lot of rough terrain, and this is the first time I've ever had any trouble with it at all.

Just so you know... I'm a 66 year old woman without much "mechanical" expertise, nor any of the fancy electronic gadgets like voltage meters ect to "check" anything. lol

OK.. get on... turn the key...click...click...click. So I by-passed the seat switch with a piece of baling wire as temporary jumper. Fired right up! Engaged right lever arm. No problem. Engaged left lever arm... killed it. Tried restarting... no click... no sound at all, and of course ... no start. (my baling wire / electrical tape jumper probably didn't stay put) Removed the jumper. Plugged the spade connectors back into the seat switch, and still no click... no sound at all, and of course ... no start. I'm assuming my seat switch or the cable or both are bad? AND... why does engaging the arms kill the motor, and what might I need to do fix the problem?

Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated!!

Respectfully,
Hart547

 

[RustyA]

First question, do we know we have a fully charged battery that is capable of cranking the engine over...your clicking noise would make me suspect a weak state of charge in the battery? If you have a battery charger try slowly charging the battery overnight and try it tomorrow...since you don't have a volt meter to see if battery voltage is 12.6 volts.

 

[hart547]

It fired right up when I by-passed the seat switch, so it's not my battery. Thanks for your input though Rusty!

hart547

 

[oldnslo]

On most mowers the switches on the arms are connected either to the engine or the clutch for the mower deck.

Like Rusty states click, click points towards electrical problems in start circuit, weak battery, corroded connection on battery cable, etc.

With out volt meter or test light just be guessing at what the problem is.

Can you follow the the cable on the positive post of the battery. It should connect to the starter relay / solenoid. Second large wire will go from this relay to the starter.

On this relay there should be either one or two small wires connected to it. If one small wire make sure both arms are in neutral and take jumper wire and carefully jump the positive battery terminal to the small post. Expect some sparks but if battery and connections are good engine should turn over. This test by-passes all of the safety switches.

 

[mini14]

I have had many issues with safety switches sticking sometimes I spray some silicone spray in the safety switch and it helps. Other times I have bypassed them. I have never had a seat safety switch last me more than 1 yrs.

 

[seville009]

I had the safety switch wires on one of my mower lever arms break right at the connector a few years ago; was hard to see.

 

[Ford850]

My guess is you bypassed the seat switch which allowed the start, but then that jumper wire came loose as you said. Your mower can run without you on the seat normally, so that loose jumper didn't matter at that point... mower stayed running. But when you tried to engage the drive levers it does require you to be in the seat (or seat switch engaged). Since your jumper was loose it stalled the engine at that point. Just a guess though. A better, insulated jumper wire with spade ends could confirm if the issue is really your switch/connectors.

 

[hart547]

I know the battery is good. I'll sure try what you've suggested. Thanks for your input oldnsio!

 

[hart547]

Oh gosh! I guess I've been really lucky with mine then! The seat safety switch has been "iffy" for a while now as I could manipulate the cable wires and it would start. I'm going to replace them both (if I can figure out how to remove the old seat switch) or just properly by-pass the seat switch all together. Thanks for your comment mini14!

 

[hart547]

I'll check that too seville009. Thanks!