I am having a problem with my Farmpro 2420 tractor. It will not start. When I step on the clutch and turn the key on it just clicks. The starter will not engage. I have had the starter, solenoid, and alternator checked and they all are working fine. I replaced the battery and voltage regulator. I have tried starting the tractor with a screw driver by touching the solenoid with the positive battery post and got the same clicking. Can anyone tell me what could possibly be my problem.
Problem with Farmpro Tractor 2420
- Thread starter ddavism
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greg_g
Super Member
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Follow the battery ground (-) cable to where it attaches to the tractor frame. Remove the bolt and grind the paint around the bolt hole down to bare metal. Clean the cable lug/bolt/washer of paint as well. Get a hardening type silicon dielectric (that will skin over). Put some on the bare metal, then bolt the cable back on. Protect the completed connection with more dielectric.
//greg//
//greg//
erj
Gold Member
Have you checked the battery grounding wire? How much voltage do you get to the solenoid post on the starter when you put the key in the start position (with clutch depressed)?
RonJ
RonJ
fartypants
New member
Hi just a thought... it sounds like my old problem.. see http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/142478-rookie-jinma-owner.html
I hope this helps.
Cheers, Phil.
I hope this helps.
Cheers, Phil.
studor
Veteran Member
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- Jinma 284(Spirit fel), MF 135 (MF200 fel)
Uh - just a wild thought -- when you bridge the starter are you sure the tractor is in neutral? Can you start the tractor by using jumpers from the battery directly to the starter?
greg_g
Super Member
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As ERJ suggested, check solenoid voltage. It's only there when the keyswitch is in the START position, so you'll need a helper. If available, a digital multimeter will give you a more accurate reading. The wire you are testing starts at the keyswitch, then goes through the clutch interlock under the left floorboard before ending up on the small solenoid post. Put one multimeter probe on that post, the other on ground. I suggest one of the bolts that holds the starter to the bellhousing. Then have someone push in the clutch and turn the keyswitch to START. Observe the voltage. Most starters will not engage (just click) if/when they see less than 9 volts on that wire.
If this is the case, you can boost the solenoid voltage with a starter relay. I've installed them on a few Y80/85 series engines with this same problem, so can explain the wiring to you if need be. One of them is the Y485 I have right now, on which I've installed has both a starter relay AND a glow plug relay - AND a charging voltage bypass wire.
//greg//
If this is the case, you can boost the solenoid voltage with a starter relay. I've installed them on a few Y80/85 series engines with this same problem, so can explain the wiring to you if need be. One of them is the Y485 I have right now, on which I've installed has both a starter relay AND a glow plug relay - AND a charging voltage bypass wire.
//greg//
studor
Veteran Member
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Just a thought --- If you cannot get it to start with jumpers directly from the battery to the starter then it must be he starter -- or the battery -- none of the rest of the wiring stuff matters cause you are not using them 
. If you take the starter off and jump it will it spin? Will it turn over with the decompression lever set? I know you said it is a new starter but it sure sounds like it is either jammed or not functional given the other steps.
. If you take the starter off and jump it will it spin? Will it turn over with the decompression lever set? I know you said it is a new starter but it sure sounds like it is either jammed or not functional given the other steps.Just spent a week with this same symptom. Check your ammeter guage. Mine had shorted out . The voltage passes thru the ammeter , if there is a short, you will not be able to start. I could see a small "spark" in the ammeter guage when turning the key on.
Check a few other things too, can you start it with a "hand switch" attach across the starter solenoid ? Is there continuity at the switch at your clutch pedal ?
Check a few other things too, can you start it with a "hand switch" attach across the starter solenoid ? Is there continuity at the switch at your clutch pedal ?
greg_g
Super Member
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- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Hydro-lock will do that. Turning the flywheel will open a valve enough to let some liquid out of the affected cylinder. But I'd expect it to run rough for a while, until such time as enough fluid is expelled to permit that cylinder to fire again. More likely the starter pinion was jammed in the ring gear teeth. Since the ring gear rotates with the flywheel, just moving it slightly would be enough to permit the pinion spring to home the pinion shaft.
If it happens again, there's a little slop in the starter mounting holes. A slight rotation of the starter motor might prevent future occurrences. If it's hydro-lock, that's more serious. New injector if it's locking up on fuel, real serious if it's locking up on coolant. But if there wasn't a lot of white smoke after it started, it's probably the pinion thing.
//greg//
If it happens again, there's a little slop in the starter mounting holes. A slight rotation of the starter motor might prevent future occurrences. If it's hydro-lock, that's more serious. New injector if it's locking up on fuel, real serious if it's locking up on coolant. But if there wasn't a lot of white smoke after it started, it's probably the pinion thing.
//greg//
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Well, that's a bit unnerving. Why wouldn't it start until you did that? Was a cylinder fuel-locked? Was the starter Bendix jamming the flywheel? I would absolutely hate not knowing what the origin of the problem was - I'd be worrying that something bad was gong to happen while operating it.
I sincerely hope that when you were turning the engine with the pinch bar that you had the compression release open and the fuel shot-off clamped in place to prevent the engine from starting. Could be really disastrous to have a pry bar in the flywheel and the engine starts - diesels can do that, you know.
Rich
I sincerely hope that when you were turning the engine with the pinch bar that you had the compression release open and the fuel shot-off clamped in place to prevent the engine from starting. Could be really disastrous to have a pry bar in the flywheel and the engine starts - diesels can do that, you know.
Rich
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
I see Greg and I had the same thought. I think it merits looking to see what caused the issue.
