Posthole Digger post hole digger model/tips for replacing posts

[bill333]

Now and again I have to replace posts on my old cedar split rail fence. Because it is split rail the posts have to pretty much go in the same holes as the existing posts. The ones needing replacing tend to be where the post has rotted at ground level -- so even though the top of the post can be broken off, there is still some (somewhat rotted) post in the ground.
Digging these out by hand is very difficult, compounded by clay and rock.

I want to get a PHD for this. I've looked for years for a used one given I don't have many posts to do, but none are available anywhere around here.

Questions:
1. Any particular tips for how to dig these holes with a PHD?

2. any particular type/brand of PHD? The cheapest ones seem to be the Leinbachs, but they don't appear to have replaceable edges, does this matter?

 

[zzvyb6]

In my 30 years of fencing, I've never been able to drill a post hole on top of an existing post stump. The digger/auger won't grind out the old part. You can however. drill one right along side every existing post and live with the offset end points of the fence. What you ought to consider (if you have a front end loader or 3pt reach hook, is to shovel out around the old post just enough to slip a tight chain loop around it. Then tug it out with the tractor. You will find that the old hole is just about perfect for the new post. Maybe have to clear out the hole a bit with a hand auger, but it goes really fast once you get the hang of it. Having a helper to snag the chain onto the old post stump or operate the tractor is a big plus. Hope that helps. I only use a PHD for drilling new holes, not for resurrecting old ones. For the hand digger, I prefer the type that you turn instead of the ones you chop with. The interlocking shovels at the end if it gets the loose soil out. And the hole will be round and straight down.

 

[whistlepig]

In my 30 years of fencing, I've never been able to drill a post hole on top of an existing post stump. The digger/auger won't grind out the old part. You can however. drill one right along side every existing post and live with the offset end points of the fence. What you ought to consider (if you have a front end loader or 3pt reach hook, is to shovel out around the old post just enough to slip a tight chain loop around it. Then tug it out with the tractor. You will find that the old hole is just about perfect for the new post. Maybe have to clear out the hole a bit with a hand auger, but it goes really fast once you get the hang of it. Having a helper to snag the chain onto the old post stump or operate the tractor is a big plus. Hope that helps. I only use a PHD for drilling new holes, not for resurrecting old ones. For the hand digger, I prefer the type that you turn instead of the ones you chop with. The interlocking shovels at the end if it gets the loose soil out. And the hole will be round and straight down.

I agree with zzvyb6. A post hole digger is going to roll off of the broken post and in to the soft ground next to it. I have a Bush Hog post hole digger with "Bear Claw" replaceable teeth on the augers. The teeth are staggered. This Bush Hog is the fourth post hole digger that I have owned and by far the best. Bush Hog is a bit pricey but I think the augers now are one size fits all. A post hole auger with just a flat straight blade on the end of the auger is a poor way to go. They won't hardly cut through sod and when they finally do they have walked off the mark 12". The secret to a good post hole digger is in the tips of the auger.

 

[bill333]

Thanks for the input, I was afraid of that.

How do you keep the chain from just pulling off the post 'stubble'? Do you just do a loop and let the tension from the lifting keep it tight? It just seems that it might slip up/off.

I'm not familiar with the "type that you turn instead of the ones you chop with"....

Unfortunately I have to only replace posts here and there, so digging holes next to the existing ones won't work, unless I want to have a really bad fence line. I don't mind that along the wood line, but along the yard it would be a little odd.

I should just get the entire thing replaced with 3 board, but the cost...

 

[whistlepig]

If you are going to do this on a regular basis I would suggest drilling a hole through the post just below ground level and hammering a pin through it. They sell a pin at Tractor Supply called a "brace pin" for fence poles. It's 10" long by 3/8" diameter. This would give you a good place to hook a chain around. They are galvanized and last a while. You could reuse the pins.

 

[newbury]

The ones needing replacing tend to be where the post has rotted at ground level -- so even though the top of the post can be broken off, there is still some (somewhat rotted) post in the ground.

Why not take the biggest, longest wood auger you can afford with a compatible drill. Drill a hole down the center. Hook the bit on your FEL or 3pt and lift carefully straight up.

If you've got a really powerful cordless drill you should be able to auger in a ways. If not
I'd put my generator (you do own a generator don't you?) in my FEL, drive out to the post, and use my 1/2 inch drill.

 

[whistlepig]

Why not take the biggest, longest wood auger you can afford with a compatible drill. Drill a hole down the center. Hook the bit on your FEL or 3pt and lift carefully straight up.

If you've got a really powerful cordless drill you should be able to auger in a ways. If not
I'd put my generator (you do own a generator don't you?) in my FEL, drive out to the post, and use my 1/2 inch drill.

I have a generator, FEL, and a powerful cordless drill. Not for a second would I try to do it this way. It's just a broken post. They are not that hard to pull out if they are not set in concrete. I pulled up 75 last summer. Dig down with shovel a few inches below ground, wrap a chain around it, and pull it up with a FEL. If you don't have a FEL a farm jack from Tractor Supply will do just fine.

 

[bill333]

thanks for the tips. I do have a FEL and now I understand why everyone told me to get hooks welded on my new tractor bucket.

Do you throw a blanket or something over the chain in case it breaks?

It still would seem to me the chain would slip off but I'm sure I can figure it out.

Does anyone know if the chains they sell at places like TSC are strong enough for this? I have some light duty chains here which would not be enough. I usually use tow straps for towing; I haven't done much pulling like this.

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[flusher]

thanks for the tips. I do have a FEL and now I understand why everyone told me to get hooks welded on my new tractor bucket.

Do you throw a blanket or something over the chain in case it breaks?

It still would seem to me the chain would slip off but I'm sure I can figure it out.

Does anyone know if the chains they sell at places like TSC are strong enough for this? I have some light duty chains here which would not be enough. I usually use tow straps for towing; I haven't done much pulling like this.

Thanks for any thoughts.

What tractor/FEL combo do you have? Something like 3/8" grade 70 chain (6600 lb working load limit) would do.

Be careful. You need to make sure that you're pulling line is centered on the bucket side-to-side so you don't end up twisting the torque tube between the FEL arms. Sometimes one of those old posts can be really tough to pull and the hydraulics on your FEL are strong enough to really mess up the FEL arms and bend the bucket sheet metal if you're not careful.

Here's the setup I used a few months ago to remove a bunch of T-posts



My FEL bucket has grab hooks on the outside and a D-ring slip hook in the middle. My tractor is a 2008 Mahindra 5525 that weighs about 6000 lb with the ML250 FEL that has 2960 lb lift capacity at the bucket pivots. Several of those T-post were bent underground and really challenged the pulling power of my FEL.

 

[MESSMAKER]

thanks for the tips. I do have a FEL and now I understand why everyone told me to get hooks welded on my new tractor bucket.

Do you throw a blanket or something over the chain in case it breaks?

It still would seem to me the chain would slip off but I'm sure I can figure it out.

Does anyone know if the chains they sell at places like TSC are strong enough for this? I have some light duty chains here which would not be enough. I usually use tow straps for towing; I haven't done much pulling like this.

Thanks for any thoughts.

You need a chain with a slip hook. Throw a double loop on the post and set the hook. It will tighten more than tight enough to get the post out. I would not worry about breaking the chain unless you are using something under a 1/4 inch. A draw bar between your two lower three point arms will work for this as well. They get a Lot harder if concrete is involved.